We all know #10/#11 caps are near impossible to find. And will be for the near future. Much has been said about the 22Reloader dies and primer compound. In my opinion if you are not making caps you are in a tough spot.
I have have had both the #10 and #11 cap dies and primer compound for over 1 year now. I have had many struggles and disappointments. Here are my OPINIONS on making caps.
Read the darn instructions!
1. If you do not have an arbor press or a reloading press you will have a lot of cap cup rejects. Any sideways pressure on the die results in very poorly made cap cups or flat out failures in either single thickness aluminum pop cans, doubled up pop cans, or .005" thickness brass stock. I use my reloading press. I am able to get 9 out of 10 perfect caps. If I use hand pressure or a hammer, I'm lucky if I get 5 out of 10 acceptable cap cups.
2. Mix the ingredients EXACTLY as described. NOT heaping scoopfuls, but level scoopfuls.
3. Use exactly 1/3 scoop (small end!!) of mixed compound to fill cap cups. I use a 3" by 2" piece of paper folded longwise as a funnel to get the primer mixture from the scoop to the cap cup.
4. I use acetone as the solvent. 1 drop per cap cup.
5. I then use a special binder. I got this from the cast boolits forum. Dissolve a single base (NOT a double base) smokeless powder (does not matter which) in acetone in a sealed pint mason jar. It will form a viscous goo after a few days wait. Put one drop via a toothpick on the primer compound.
6. Wait 24hrs. This makes for a nearly waterproof, very hot and powerful cap that will result in a 100% success rate. The single base smokeless powder dissolved in acetone makes a hard tough highly flammable binder/glue,
I have no intentions of ever buying percussion caps again, at any price, no matter how cheap, after a few months of making and using these caps. Hope this helps someone.
i