Nails popping out of stock on LGPR

[jdw276]

Oops.

Nope, no socks......

 

[laagamer]

Pictures would help.

Please do I'm interested in seeing that!

I have an older Lyman Great Plains rifle and there's no brass fittings on it. . . all are steel. I too would like to see pictures. It's possible someone did some brass inlays in your rifle.

Aftermarket or DYI brass tacks, inlays and decorations? Need photographs.

pictures please

I think he is talking about tacks added to the gun. If not i am lost too.

Are you talking about the wedges in the forestock? They can get loose and need to be bent a little to snug them up.

This is a TC but the Lyman wedges are the same except steel.

Chances are he ain't 'up' on pictures!

Howdy, everyone! Apologies on the delay, and thank you all for your responses! Got myself a little cold, and remained at my girlfriend's for the duration the past few days. Finally got to my rifle today. Second apologies, but I have the barrel out, because she needs to be re-blue'd with some Super Blue.

Here's some pictures, gentlemen!

Any and all advice is appreciated and welcomed! Thank you!

 

[Johnny Too-Tall]

Those are the pins that hold it together. They are designed to be removed if needed. You can take a dab of super glue not a bunch a dab and put it on the ends. That way if you ever need to knock them out you can easily do so with a 1/16th punch

 

[Brokennock]

Super glue will obviously work as suggested above, but also could cause problems if you accidentally use too much.
I would get an appropriately sized pin punch and push the pins in so they are subsurface on both sides, then rub some beeswax into the the holes. This should keep the pins in and moisture out, while keeping it easy to remove the pins,,,,, on the rare occasion you might have need too.

 

[SDSmlf]

Howdy, everyone! Apologies on the delay, and thank you all for your responses! Got myself a little cold, and remained at my girlfriend's for the duration the past few days. Finally got to my rifle today. Second apologies, but I have the barrel out, because she needs to be re-blue'd with some Super Blue.

Here's some pictures, gentlemen!

Any and all advice is appreciated and welcomed! Thank you! View attachment 307994View attachment 307995View attachment 307997

Those are cross pins to hold components in place. If they are loose and moving you will want to drill up to the next available size of drill and pin size you can find. Do NOT glue or epoxy these pins in place. They are meant to be removable, but not loose. Some will use nails or something similar, but I prefer drill rod because it will be round and on size to match your drill.

If these ‘nails’ are truly loose, the cause is that someone must have removed and installed them with the incorrect diameter punch or drive pin. Using glue or wax will ‘hide’ the problem but will not correct it. Once corrected, using the correct size punch or drive (best to be a diameter LESS than the pin diameter) problem should not reoccur.

 

[bpd303]

Like others have said they are not nails but pins that hold the barrel to the stock and ram rod pipes. SDSmlf answered while I was typing. Everything he said is correct.
Most pins are tapped in left to right and removed right to left. I never remove them completely unless I'm finishing the wood, just tap them until they clear the barrel lugs. It also helps to slightly round the ends of the pins, that way they don't tear out any wood when moving.

 

[SDSmlf]

Personally I cut the pins a bit short, maybe .020” to .030” +/-, so that they sit below the surface of the stock wood, which provides a bit of a locating hole for the punch. And as others have mentioned, round off or chamfer the ends of the pins so they will not punch out chunks of wood when removed or installed.

 

[laagamer]

Super glue will obviously work as suggested above, but also could cause problems if you accidentally use too much.
I would get an appropriately sized pin punch and push the pins in so they are subsurface on both sides, then rub some beeswax into the the holes. This should keep the pins in and moisture out, while keeping it easy to remove the pins,,,,, on the rare occasion you might have need too

Super glue will obviously work as suggested above, but also could cause problems if you accidentally use too much.
I would get an appropriately sized pin punch and push the pins in so they are subsurface on both sides, then rub some beeswax into the the holes. This should keep the pins in and moisture out, while keeping it easy to remove the pins,,,,, on the rare occasion you might have need too.

Those are cross pins to hold components in place. If they are loose and moving you will want to drill up to the next available size of drill and pin size you can find. Do NOT glue or epoxy these pins in place. They are meant to be removable, but not loose. Some will use nails or something similar, but I prefer drill rod because it will be round and on size to match your drill.

If these ‘nails’ are truly loose, the cause is that someone must have removed and installed them with the incorrect diameter punch or drive pin. Using glue or wax will ‘hide’ the problem but will not correct it. Once corrected, using the correct size punch or drive (best to be a diameter LESS than the pin diameter) problem should not reoccur.

Like others have said they are not nails but pins that hold the barrel to the stock and ram rod pipes. SDSmlf answered while I was typing. Everything he said is correct.
Most pins are tapped in left to right and removed right to left. I never remove them completely unless I'm finishing the wood, just tap them until they clear the barrel lugs. It also helps to slightly round the ends of the pins, that way they don't tear out any wood when moving.

Personally I cut the pins a bit short, maybe .020” to .030” +/-, so that they sit below the surface of the stock wood, which provides a bit of a locating hole for the punch. And as others have mentioned, round off or chamfer the ends of the pins so they will not punch out chunks of wood when removed or installed.

Oh, wow! Thank you all for your responses! They're very much appreciated!

Follow up video for you all. Forgive my neophyte narration

Also, which part of the barrel is the lug? Thank you all again for helping me learn!

 

[SDSmlf]

Oh, wow! Thank you all for your responses! They're very much appreciated!

Follow up video for you all. Forgive my neophyte narration

After looking at your video, nails/pins are not loose. I can see the nose cap ‘give’ and it is moving a bit. Is this causing any problems with function or accuracy? Put the barrel back in the stock, shoot the gun and report back. I’ve only had a few Lyman GPRs, and all (including the only one I currently own) had pinned components that moved a bit, though none had loose nails/pins. They all shot well after breaking in (rifling burr sharp edge removal from shooting or polishing) even with the moving components’. Show the targets that lead you to the conclusion that the loose ‘nails/pins’ were a problem. The Lyman GPR is no longer in production, but in my opinion, your sample is well within the normal range. Enjoy shooting it.

 

[laagamer]

After looking at your video, nails/pins are not loose. I can see the nose cap ‘give’ and it is moving a bit. Is this causing any problems with function or accuracy? Put the barrel back in the stock, shoot the gun and report back. I’ve only had a few Lyman GPRs, and all (including the only one I currently own) had pinned components that moved a bit, though none had loose nails/pins. They all shot well after breaking in (rifling burr sharp edge removal from shooting or polishing) even with the moving components’. Show the targets that lead you to the conclusion that the loose ‘nails/pins’ were a problem. The Lyman GPR is no longer in production, but in my opinion, your sample is well within the normal range. Enjoy shooting it.

Oh, thank you!

What led me to start this thread was that after my last shoot, I noticed the last pin in the metal at the end was sticking halfway out. At the time, I thought it was a nail. I know different now. But I was concerned it was loose, because it came partially out while shooting and I could wiggle that metal cap at the end. I was worried it would pop out entirely while shooting and I wouldn't notice and lose it.

 

[Andrewmtnman]

I'm no expert but see what others say, I would probably pull the pin and cap off, fill the current hole with wood dowl, put cap back on and make sure its pushed all the way tight against the stock with no gap and then redrill and pin it. But see what other say before you attempt this.

 

[westrayer]

wasted posts with photos....

 

[Robin101]

I would remove the cap, get some heat glue, like used in archery, heat up the cap, dab on some glue and slide it back on hold it in place while it cools off, and wipe off any glue that squeezes out while it is still warm. You may have to run a drill through the hole to clean out the glue.
As for the other pins, I always make sure they are subsurface and past wax the hole, you can color the paste wax with shoe polish if you like.
Robby

 

[reddogge]

Simple as taking the pins out and roughing the middle of them with a file or a few light strokes with a hacksaw and reinserting them . For the ones in the wood, you can smear some beeswax over the hole.

 

[Polecat_Tom]

I'm no expert but see what others say, I would probably pull the pin and cap off, fill the current hole with wood dowl, put cap back on and make sure its pushed all the way tight against the stock with no gap and then redrill and pin it

I would not fill the hole with a wood bowl and redrill as I would not be lucky enough to get the hole to realign.
I would either put the pins in and cover the ends with wax, or chase the existing hole with the next size up drill and replace the pin with a matching drill rod. If you replace the pin be certain to file a chamfer on the end of the pin so you don't damage the wood if you ever remove it.

 

[laagamer]

I'm no expert but see what others say, I would probably pull the pin and cap off, fill the current hole with wood dowl, put cap back on and make sure its pushed all the way tight against the stock with no gap and then redrill and pin it. But see what other say before you attempt this.

I would remove the cap, get some heat glue, like used in archery, heat up the cap, dab on some glue and slide it back on hold it in place while it cools off, and wipe off any glue that squeezes out while it is still warm. You may have to run a drill through the hole to clean out the glue.
As for the other pins, I always make sure they are subsurface and past wax the hole, you can color the paste wax with shoe polish if you like.
Robby

Simple as taking the pins out and roughing the middle of them with a file or a few light strokes with a hacksaw and reinserting them . For the ones in the wood, you can smear some beeswax over the hole.

I would not fill the hole with a wood bowl and redrill as I would not be lucky enough to get the hole to realign.
I would either put the pins in and cover the ends with wax, or chase the existing hole with the next size up drill and replace the pin with a matching drill rod. If you replace the pin be certain to file a chamfer on the end of the pin so you don't damage the wood if you ever remove it.

Thank you all! I shall get to task!

 

[Pete G]

Drive out the pin and put a very slight bend in the middle.

 

[Doug Fay]

I've taken the pins out of my sea service flintlock pistol and put them back in several times. The last time, I put a little Tru Oil in the hole first, figuring that when the Tru Oil has set, there should be plenty of friction, but the pins won't be tightly glued.

 

[bpd303]

which part of the barrel is the lug?

That would be the tab(s) on the bottom of the barrel that the pin goes through to hold the stock & barrel together.

 

[laagamer]

That would be the tab(s) on the bottom of the barrel that the pin goes through to hold the stock & barrel together.

Learning new things every day on this forum! Thank you!