Need advise on possible restoration project.

[Smokerr]

I know Kroil is an outstanding penetrate.

The top issue here is what could remove value? Its really a two level aspect, one is mechanical (screws/cone removal) and the other is finish condition. A restorer would have capability in both though I am speculating its a two specialty split.

I am strongly in agreement with at least a professional assessment (Murphy's as I recall would help or direct).

Any mix other than a specified release agent aka Kroil, leave me concerned. Kroil and others are a known, mixing two chemicals is an unknown both for reaction to each other and possible attack of the gun finish.

Step cautiously, very cautiously. I remember at least one incident in recent years of cannon ball going off, aka Civil War era. Not powder should not survive that long but......................

Ear and eye protection and a face shield, gloves.

Getting the lead out: Giving that a bit more thought, a multi step process would be what I would consider.

Make sure the cones are open. Then drip oil down the cones. It might take a bit, a cone cleaning tool to agitate it down might be needed.

You want to make sure you create no sparks. As other have commented, its really a chambered round (6 in this case) not an open round.

The idea would be to get thread into the ball and then a wood piece over the top drilled out for oversize and a threaded fastener screwed into the ball using washers being added as it lifts out.

Not an area I know of as to lead seizing to a chamber side or not and it comes out easily. Clearly if the cones can be pulled and powder if any inserted driving it out is easy. You have to be sure the punch is vertical so you don't hit the side of the chamber (damage there would reduce value I would think)

 

[45D]

It appears to be an 1851 Colt. Brass frame indicates was made in the south. Lots of info on this available on line.

Ummmn, nope. Rebated, 6 shot cyl, RUSTY frame (brass doesn't rust, trigger guard is brass for comparison), obvious size of bore and chambers from being held in hand . . . '60 Army of Colt's manufacturer ( end of arbor is an indicator for me as well).
'51 Navy is .36 cal.

Mike

 

[jklklatt]

Ummmn, nope. Rebated, 6 shot cyl, RUSTY frame (brass doesn't rust, trigger guard is brass for comparison), obvious size of bore and chambers from being held in hand . . . '60 Army of Colt's manufacturer ( end of arbor is an indicator for me as well).
'51 Navy is .36 cal.

Mike

You are correct. I shouldn't have been multitasking!!

 

[Bad Karma]

You are correct. I shouldn't have been multitasking!!

Yes, the 1860 army loading lever is a a thing of great beauty while the 1851 is a rather agricultural looking implement…

 

[hawkeye2]

Simple solution as to whether it's a Colt or a reproduction; look down the barrel, if the rifling spins in a counter clock wise direction it's a Colt, if it rotates to the right (clockwise) its something else.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Simple solution as to whether it's a Colt or a reproduction; look down the barrel, if the rifling spins in a counter clock wise direction it's a Colt, if it rotates to the right (clockwise) its something else.

And originals have gain twist rifling.

 

[Robert an saa fan]

In over 50 years of collecting Colts have seen many firearms needlessly damaged by parts removal and "restoration".

It would be helpful to know if there is any partially visible marking of " Colt's Patent " on the left side of the frame, what the serial numbers are and where they are located, any visible barrel markings and if there is a wedge with the revolver. The cylinder picture looks like cylinder is worn beyond having visible markings?

Clear, close up pictures would be a big help to help us help you.

 

[nick_1]

its obviously loaded . treat it as such. don't do any restoration without having a pro assess the value first.

 

[Smokerr]

Fully agree on treating as loaded - the basic firearms proviso (Number 1 in my opinion)

Kind of a note is that you then cannot send the gun to anyone (unless you keep the cylinder)

That in my view means dealing with the cylinder.

Either 45D or Mr. Deland would be the ones I know of here to address that though there clearly are others on the site, just the ones I know of.

 

[Josh Canuck]

Remove the grips & soak the entire revolver in a 50-50 solution of auto transmission fluid & acetone for two days.

This treatment usually frees-up corrosion on nipples

But won't this mix risk taking what's left of the original blue off?
Just wondering.

EDIT: Spelling

 

[Davey Boy]

Not to hijack but what does that do? I've used it many times to prep for surgery, never thought of it as useful in a case like this. Please enlighten.

On some things like stuck valves in an engine head, dissimilar metals that have locked together from the swelling of oxidation, or muzzleloaders that have had parts stuck from not cleaning properly - povidone 10%USP can be a miraculous penetrating release agent.

On corroded 7075 T6 aluminum with 18-8 stainless steel 4-40 machine screws stuck so tight you could twist the heads off, povidone 10%USP applied and the 4 stuck screws came right out slick. I don't pay attention to length of time for application but no longer than an overnight. I applied with an eyedropper and let it sit for a while.

I first came across this remedy in an automobile repair book from the 1900's. Under the section stuck valves from engine overheating. The cure to releasing the valves was iodine. I had stuck valves in a 1936 Plymouth motor that wouldn't budge under impact from oak block with sledge hammer. One application of iodine and an overnight wait, next day pulled every valve with my fingers.

I just did a 36 cal double barrel pistol sometimes called a snake eyes pistol, it's thread is on this forum. I used povidone 10%USP to remove the steel nipples from the brass casting,

I also used it in the restoration project here:

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/whitmore-duff-wolff-co.125840/page-3

If something like this works I think it is worth mentioning.

 

[Crow Choker]

As others advised check with someone who can visibly examine it to determine if it is an original or not, if so leave as be, be worth more as is. That cylinder looks pretty tough as does the bore, IMO be a better wall hanger unless any original value. If there is powder in the chambers, which I'd bet there was (who would seat balls without any), I'd bet that powder is in better shape than the revolver. Be alot of elbow grease/expense getting that into shooting shape, buy a like reproduction and enjoy shooting. FWIW it looked like a 1860 model first time I saw the pictures, no mention of any stampings/serial number.

 

[CuNosecap]

Thanks for the explanation, DaveyBoy. I was not throwing rocks, but I just had never heard of using that solution. Thanks for the education. I may try it sometime.
Rick

 

[Davey Boy]

Thanks for the explanation, DaveyBoy. I was not throwing rocks, but I just had never heard of using that solution. Thanks for the education. I may try it sometime.
Rick

You are welcome

I hope it can be knowledge passed around and be useful !

 

[SOLANCO]

Just remember, no heat till you get the lead and possible powder removed first.

Not "possible" powder. You have to assume it is real, viable, and in the cylinder until proven otherwise or removed.

 

[avesteve]

I'll admit I'm old, but still have all my fingers, both eyes, and got there by being a little careful...Not too careful, mind you, but careful enough. If that old girl were mine I would brush out, and patch out the bore as best as I could without use of chemical or abrasive means, then properly clean and lubricate the action. Then I'd prick the nipples and re-pack the front of the cylinder with Crisco or your BP lube of choice. Then I'd reassemble the revolver, cap it and fire it off. If you detect a squib knock her apart and inspect the barrel for blockage and if none is found reassemble and continue with the rest. Any charge holes that didn't fire would then get any or all of the above suggested methods of neutralization and removal. As far as I'm concerned 150 year old charges of BP are good to go until proven otherwise, and wasting time and materials messing with them until proven to be duds is folly. I might (would) re-cap and re-fire any duds a second time just to be sure. BP doesn't get stronger with age so there isn't any danger in giving it a try. Don't be surprised when all six go boom the first time around! I'd even shoot those old charges for a group just so as not to lose that bit of historical information. What's the worst case? She doesn't fire, and no harm done. Best case? you didn't have to go to a lot of trouble pulling charges that didn't need pulling.