need help

[trad hunter]

what would be a good starter gun? any advice would be
appreciated thanks

 

[Rebel]

Well, some more info from you would help decide that. What are you going to use it for? Caplock or flintlock? Hawken style or longrifle or smoothbore? If you are just wanting one to target shoot and for small game, and want a caplock and fairly inexpensive to start out, i would suggest a Traditions Crockett rifle. It is a .32 cal. so it is cheap to shoot. They are very accurate. I would check with Midsouth Shooters Supply. I think they have the best prices on them.

 

[trad hunter]

I want to deer hunt and small game hunt.Are there any
brands that should be avoided?

 

You get what you pay for. Lyman Great Plains in .50, roundball shooter will kill deer and you can load it down for smaller game. With light loads it will not blow game into furbugers.
Stay away from cheap flinters as they often have a lot of problems if the lock is not strong and the touch hole out of place.

 

[Rocky Johnson]

trad hunter - Maybe a used rifle to see if you like messing with BP. Rocky /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[roundball]

Another option is the TC Hawken, percussion or flint...you can often pick up mint condition ones on auctions in the $225-$275 range...excellent quality for the money, lifetime service warranty, and good resale value

 

[Stumpkiller]

You get what you pay for. Lyman Great Plains in .50, roundball shooter will kill deer and you can load it down for smaller game. With light loads it will not blow game into furbugers.
Stay away from cheap flinters as they often have a lot of problems if the lock is not strong and the touch hole out of place.

What he said.

You could throw us a bone here and tell us at least whether you are leaning towards a rifle or a smoothbore, period of time (if any) you are interested in, style, cost, etc.

Flintlocks, much more so than in-lines and percussion ignitions, depend on a careful execution of the lock geometry in the design and inlaying work. It takes a delicate balance to get solid, surefire strike across the face of the frizzen; while at the same time not pounding it so hard that the lock destroys the flint in a few shots. There have been some dismal flintlocks offerred in the recent past, and I'm sure there are some lemons out there amont the latest crop.

Flintlocks are on the upswing currently - and that is wonderful. I would say without hesitation that what is out there at this moment is the widest selection and best quality of mass produced components ever offerred.

I'm not sure if we have any on this forum, but it would take a full-time effort by an individual to survey the gunshops and gunshows to see first hand what is available. Your best bet is to narrow your options and then ask for opinions on specific arms from our list members here. Chances are someone has experiences to share (we're almost at 800 members!)

If you stick with T/C and Lyman you can't go far wrong, though any used firearm could have had an abusive or ignorant prior owner who harmed the gun. If in doubt, arrange to have it checked over by a gunsmith as part of the sales agreement.

If you decide on a kit, go for one that is 90% (or more) pre inletted and includes a barrel already mated to the breech-plug.

If you opt for a smoothbore, you might do well to choose one of the Brown Bess copies now available. As an 'entry-level' flinter they have a lot going for them. That big 'ol 1" wide flint usually gets sparks even if the frizzen isn't tempered fine and the lock strikes are 'iffy'. And, they're a blast to shoot (n'yuk, n'yuk). You can stuff in shot or roundball as the mood strikes you.

 

posting, the French guns of the 1728/46 to 1766 period took part in the American Revlution and are available from www.militaryheritage.com and www.loyalistarms.com for very reasonable prices. Various English Brown Bess models are also available from both suppliers.

 

[JerryToth]

Hi Trad Hunter,

Do you mean an absolute "starter gun", that is to say your very first blackpowder rifle of any sort?

If this is the case, then don't worry about kits, about anything historical, or what time period you may want to represent.

If you are indeed absolutely starting, just get a Thompson Center, or a Lyman, preferably used. Personally, I bought two T/C's for my first two rifles.

I'm now into the 1760's time period with a period correct rifle, but you don't need to go there yet. When you try blackpowder, most likely you'll either be stricken with it or you won't.

If you have a good used T/C that you invested $200-$250 in, you shouldn't lose your tail if you just sell it off. I knew on my first shot that I had searched for blackpowder all my life! Not everyone does. They do have to be cleaned.

So my personal best advise would be to look for a good used T/C. Probably in 50 caliber.

I'd consider selling mine if you'd be interested. I hear a 1750's Transitional longrifle a callin' to me! My off-group email is [email protected] if you'd like to talk. Mention something about BP in the subject so I don't mistake your mail for spam.

Regards,

Jerry.