Need info on breaking-in holster rig

[Gunruner]

Hello folks, I just got a deal on a 1858 Remington and it came with a very nice reproduction of the holster/belt rig issued during the Civil War. The rig was never used and is heavy leather(unlike the mystery leather we sometimes encounter). It is very stiff and tight. I do not want to wet it down and try to shape it to the gun. I want it to keep it's outer shape and dull black finish. Are there ways to break this holster in to make it more pliable and easier on the revolver, other than alot of use? Any dressings compatable with bluing that can be rubbed into the inner side of the holster? This is a quality holster and belt that must have cost the first owner a bundle. Any help will be appreciated.........Mike

 

[Rancocas]

On modern holsters I've used the wetting down method that you say you don't want to try. I have also rubbed the holster down well with neatsfoot oil.

 

[Gunruner]

Thank you for the neatsfoot oil suggestion. Just don't want the gun impression on the outside of the holster(just a quirk of mine), that's why I don't want to do the wet/set........Mike

 

[rebel727]

Too much neatsfoot oil will make it floppity and ruin it. best to just wear it in if you don't want to wet it.

 

[Poor Private]

In my opinion all you really need to do is just wear your holsterd pistol, or even store the pistol in the holster. There is nothing for you to do,over time pulling and holstering, your Remy will shape the holster to fit. Since Officers in the civil war very rarely pulled thier side arms over time they came to fit the piece. Why did they rarely pull thier side arms? Because the men were thier guns, if the opposing side got that close for them to pull and fire generally it was too late. The generic holster that you have was also the same for colts. The only holster that may have to be fitted to your weapon is the LaMatt holster since the Lamatt is an unusual size and shape. If you wish to have your holster custom fitted. Here is how my son did hisLamatt holster.
1. wrap your pistol in several layers of plastic wrap.
2. Wet your holster liberally inside and out.
3. holster the pistol, and secure the flap.
4. set aside for a couple of days to let the holster dry.
5. Your holster should then have conformed to your pistols shape.
6. Unwrap your pistol and clean-just in case of moisture intrusion.
7. oil your holster, to prevent mold.

Now just take regular care as needed to keep the pistol and holster in tip top shape.

 

[gun killer]

neatsfoot oil on a spunge in moderation will soften up the inside. I make holsters for a living an use it often. Lexol will soften it alittle less and will not change the finish

 

[bwhoffman]

...and some advise not to store the pistol in the leather holster!

 

[RICKYD]

cheap vegetable oil, not near as heavy as neatsfoot oil, do a little at a time, put it out in the sun to heat up, it will soak in better and not be near as messy :thumbsup:

 

[Zoar]

Neatsfoot oil in moderation is what I like best. I just haven't found anything better.

I suppose if you had an old squaw and she gummed it with her toothless gums that might work too, but shy of that methodology I'd go Neatsfoot! Indeed too much is too much but a little does such a great job there is no reason to overdo it. Just go easy. That is not hard to do.

 

[Bob Riegl]

:v I broke in my CAS holsters by using clear Teflon spray inside and out then slip the gun in overnight and repeat as often as is necessary, it doesn't hurt the gun. Heck it worked for me and most of the guys in my posse. :hatsoff:

 

[DOUBLEDEUCE 1]

As stated in all of the above entries, Neatsfoot Oil,Lexol,and a telflon spray all work well. The telfon in my experience works quick and is slick. It does need to be coated a couple of times until it gets to the point you like for the ease of the draw. I would probably go with the Lexol for my holster because I would probably over do and soak the Neatsfoot in too much. Saddle soap might not be a bad option either. I would tend to stay away from other oils like the vegetable oil, there is the chance the oil will turn rancid on you, then even you would not want to wear your holster.
I have used the teflon spray at work for many years, and it does work quickly, but again it needs to be sprayed several times over a period.
As for the holster taking on the impression of the revolver, that is just natural and it actually assists in making the draw easier because the leather has been formed. It won't have to stretch each time you draw or reholster. And the best thing is to carry the revolver in the holster, draw and reholster many, many times. Keep a good coat of oil or wax on the holster, and never, ever store the revolver in the holster. :shake:

 

[gun killer]

Never used teflon spray, very interesting. If it works then use it. Hope ta shoot with your posse someday.

 

[renovato]

Ballistol works wonders on leather and is compatible with the gun finish. I use it to soften leather and restore antique leather. Just don't soak it heavily. It's thin, so it penetrates very well without needed to apply a lot of it. It'll help preserve the leather and it also neutralizes any acids leftover from tanning. Supposedly it combines with those acids and makes the leather waterproof, but I haven't put that claim to the test yet.

 

[DOUBLEDEUCE 1]

Silicon spray is another good product to use. You might find that at a sporting goods store or hardware store. It won't harm the finish of the revolver. The leather itself is more abrasive to the finish, but that just adds character.

 

[PaulN/KS]

I use Lexol on the holsters that I make and it works ok for me...

 

[Bountyhunter]

I make all my own holsters and they are all wet formed. I wet the leather and then put it in a food saver and vacuum it down to fit the gun.

You dont have to do that. If you dampen the leather and then put the gun in it, the wet leather will 'RELAX' to the form of the gun and not leave an outline on the outside. UNDERSTAND THIS--If you use a wet form method, you need to make a thin wooden or plastic filler that you tape on top of the barrel to fill in the space between the top of the front sight and the top of the frame. Otherwise, when the leather dries, it will pull down in that area and clamp your front sight, wearing it bad every time you go in and out. Study the custom holsters,,,notice the words "sight track". Thatis a plastic insert in the leather to keep the front of the holster straight so that the front sight does not bind.

Use too much neatsfoot oil and you will end up with a LEATHER SACK. It will make the leather soft and sloppy. After you have damp formed your holster you can use Lexol or saddle soap to maintain it. Using oil or greasy manure on your leather attracts dirt..I did not notice where you are from, but if you are in an area of fine sand, it willattract sand and turn the leather into sand paper. I like the inside of my holster dry. My pistols get enough wear as it is without sanding them.

Hurry Cane,,,you're on the river bottom there and around a lot of sand. If it was me, I'd wet relax that puppy and then wear it in.

 

[JackAubrey]

I was going to suggest neatsfoot oil aswell.Sometimes I buy it by the gallon at equestrian centres.I will pour this into a container large enough to submerge the leather object and let soak for a few hours.I realise this is somewhat messier than dabbing it on however I reach deep into the leather aswell.Best regards,J.A.

 

[Zonie]

Is it true that Neats' were put on the Endangered Species List?

I know I haven't seen any oily little tracks in the woods for a long time. :hmm:

 

[JackAubrey]

Only the ones living in the wetlands,lol

 

[Va.Manuf.06]

I was going to suggest neatsfoot oil aswell.Sometimes I buy it by the gallon at equestrian centres.I will pour this into a container large enough to submerge the leather object and let soak for a few hours.I realise this is somewhat messier than dabbing it on however I reach deep into the leather aswell.Best regards,J.A.

Jack, please don't take offense, but that's called "drowning" the leather and is THE thing that gave neatsfoot oil a bad name. Please, never subject a piece of lightly used leather to dunking. Even heavily used harness is only dunked briefly (5 minutes tops) and then it is wiped down to keep it from being too wet. Dunking harness leather is only practiced where harness is in use every day (Mennonite farming community where power machinery and automobiles are not used) and that only once every couple of years - it is NEVER done to other leather articles, especially items only used occasionally. Again, sorry but....