Need more spark

[DRC]

Have a small Russ Hamm lock bought back in 70's. Son has used it to build .32 cal rifle. Not getting enough spark only going off 50 percent of the time. Hammer doesn't seem to be dropping very fast. Thinks maybe the main spring is to weak? The spring at one time was ground a bit to snug up to barrel my fault not his :: . I am guessing need new main spring . Any ideas or where to go to have spring made would be grateful. Or if anyone would know of a spring that would fit small Russ Hamm lock. Thanks

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Griz
Dixie Gun Works has a bunch of springs. You might have to alter it some to make it work if they don't have exactly what you need, but worth a shot. The other thing you might be able to do is to place a small spacer in the bend to open it slightly. Without seeing it, hard to tell. Make sure that the lock is not working properly out of the stock. You could have something rubbing, slowing the action down. Make sure your frizzen is hardened enough or the case hardening is not wore down. Just some things to check. Hope you get it fixed. Nothin more aggrivatin than a flinter that don't perform.
Flintlocks Forever,
Lar
:thumbsup: :m2c:

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Have a small Russ Hamm lock bought back in 70's. Son has used it to build .32 cal rifle. Not getting enough spark only going off 50 percent of the time. Hammer doesn't seem to be dropping very fast. Thinks maybe the main spring is to weak? The spring at one time was ground a bit to snug up to barrel my fault not his :: . I am guessing need new main spring . Any ideas or where to go to have spring made would be grateful. Or if anyone would know of a spring that would fit small Russ Hamm lock. Thanks

How did it spark before you decided to use it? Take a file and see if you can mark the frizzen, if you can, it is too soft. Might try oil hardening if you can find out the type steel and procedure for it.

Otherwise, may be time to look at using some Kasenit to case harden. Still on my first can after a couple of decades, don't take much and very easy to use on mild steel just following directions. But, and a very big but, if it is a special alloyed oil hardening steel, sure possible to ruin it when water quenched. (don't ask me how I know)

 

[Tom Curran]

There's a lot of good info in the post "flintlock shooting tips?" that might very well apply to your situation.

I talked with Jim Chambers once about a lock that I thought the mainspring was too powerful. He said the more power the better. Also remember that when you beef up the main, you may have to adjust the frizzen.

 

[DRC]

Thanks for the info. I'll go take a look. It sparks but not a strong spark. The hammer drop is a lot slower than the small siler lock he has. That's why we think maybe main spring is weak. Thanks again

 

[rich pierce]

Larry is on the right track if you can't find a replacement spring. There are several "cob-job" ways of strengthening a mainspring. One is to put a piece of hard wood into the bend, large enough that it puts some tension on the moving arm. This will ultimately strain that arm but it will work for a while. Second way is to put a small spring like a sear spring inside the mainspring bend. These sorts of field repairs were common back in the day, in the backwoods.
Best deal would be to have someone forge you a mainspring but it's a lot of work and they'd have to charge a decent price. I prefer forged mainsprings and have forged several with good results.

 

you know i read an article that Rice wrote some time back on this subject . it dealt with how to tell if you frizzen was to hard or soft by the color of the spark.
I also seemed to recall him stating that most if not all frizzens are now solid in their temper , even the cheaper ones and that if anything most are to hard to throw good spark ,,,,,, I hate to say it but I think it was in an old muzzle blast MMMMMMMMm I have it somewhere here and will look or if any of you remember it please post it as its got some very good reliable info .

If your lock is slow however I would make sure its cleaned and polished inside and that the tumbler fits properly and is not loose in its fit before I worried on the springs

 

[DRC]

Put wooden spacer in main spring turned flint bevel up thicker leather under flint now lights pan almost everytime. Still need to tune it up some but now need to take to range load and shoot. Been sparking pan only. Just have it lodged in mind {how long will main spring last with extra tension}. The rifle built is a curly maple stock ,russ hamm lock .32cal. 43in. 7/8 douglas barrel trimmed in german silver. Thanks for help . Let you know how it shoots.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

:hmm:
Hey Griz,
One more thing you might have to ponder. If the spring has the temper drawn too much, it will tend to be on the mushy side. (not enough springy left in the spring) If the spring seems to be loosing, or has lost, it's rebound, then you will have to re-harden it, and then draw the temper again. If the spring is then still weak, I personally would get me another. (make, buy, or have one made) but I would come up with another.
Never Give up!!!! Flinters are sometimes just a little fussy, but then, that is what makes em funer.
Flintlocks Forever
Lar :front:

 

[DRC]

Son and I talked about taking lock down to friendship in fall and seeing if anybody could make or have spring. Hope it last that long. I would like to thank everybody for there help. This forum rules.