Need shooting advice, look at these patches, please.

[SDSmlf]

I’ve read this before on other post… excuse my stupidity but how do you apply it on the end of the ramrod….. do I need a worm?

There are many ways to polish of clean up a bore. Here is a @duelist1954 video showing the process he used on a difficult to load GPR.



I have used a similar method with Scotch-Brite for some time, but Mike explains his very well. I started doing it after speaking to Don Getz (Getz Barrel) years ago before he passed, and he recommended using the green (600 grit) Scotch-Brite for smoothing up barrels that were cutting patches. Said it wouldn’t hurt the barrel.

 

[Stony Broke]

I have used .40's for a lot of years, and never ran into one that wouldn't work good with a .395 ball and a linen patch. I just use my normal mix of Murphy's oil soap and Windex to lube the patch. I like to put the patch on the bore, then the ball, and give it a gently tap with a rubber hammer (when working off a bench) to seat the ball....I use a short starter after that and then seat the ball on the powder. Never had a problem doing it this way....

 

[Grenadier1758]

I agree, but don't it look excessive to you, or is it just because it is a small patch?
Larry

The shredding of the patches around the circumference does seem a bit excessive and the radial cuts sort of indicate a somewhat loosely woven patch which is why I agreed that the use of a linen (tightly woven of 100% flax) patch might hold together better than the cotton patches he is showing.

 

[rafterob]

The patch where it is contacting the ball and barrel for the most part looks fine. A couple are getting cut at the edge which may be because the load is too tight. Another thing that will do that is a jag that is too tight. To check on that start your ball just flush with the muzzle and then start to push it in with your rod and jag. You will be able to tell if it is too tight. Not a problem if the patch is under the jag going down, but if it is wrapped around the jag it can cut it badly.

 

[Flintlock]

As others have said, might be a warm load, no reson to make a magnum out of a .40, 20-30 grains of FFG or FFFG is plenty for most, maybe 40 grains for fox-coyote size critters. Try a couple different lubes, Crisco, olive oil or whatever is handy.

 

[tom_in_vt]

Those definitely look a little beat up. Try more/different lube, different thickness patch, charge, etc.

 

[Mule333]

As others have said, might be a warm load, no reson to make a magnum out of a .40, 20-30 grains of FFG or FFFG is plenty for most, maybe 40 grains for fox-coyote size critters. Try a couple different lubes, Crisco, olive oil or whatever is handy.

It’s a Colerain .40 … A weight. I was using 40 grains of 3f Schuetzen I was just going with what others have suggested. If one has a .40 cal start with 40 grains powder.

A thunder storm was coming and it cut my range time short. So I didn’t get to do as much as I wanted. I would have tried 35 grains.

 

[Mule333]

I just use my normal mix of Murphy's oil soap and Windex to lube the patch.

Stony…. What is your mix ratio… I’ve seen other’s talk about this and I would like to try it. I’ve got Murphy’s Oil Soap. Also, I’ve read others use alcohol with it.

Thanks, Mule

 

[hanshi]

Just a few suggestions to pick and choose from as you experiment. Smooth the crown at the muzzle, swab the bore with ScotchBright pads, put a barrier (wad, patch, etc) over the powder charge and although seemingly counterintuative, once the crown is smoothed try a thicker patch. Yes, lube is important.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I have some patch pictures to take a look at. I used a pretty tight patch so you can see spots of rubbing on the patch from the lands. There is some shredding on the circumference. I used a fairly good load and the patches are bit burned. I have shot better groups with this rifle.

I also tried some much smaller balls and very thin patches so I could have some easy loads. With this load, you can see the adverse effect of gas blow by tearing up the patches. Interestingly, the groups are more similar than I would have expected. But I did gain a lot of confidence in this load to shoot from the pouch.

 

[sawyer04]

I’ve read this before on other post… excuse my stupidity but how do you apply it on the end of the ramrod….. do I need a worm?

No stupid question Mule. A worm would work, I use a jag, one shaped like a plug with shoulders on it , just like the one used for patch cleaning. Get that pad cut for a snug fit and it won't come off. If it does, it is easily got out. Want a good tight snug fit, the pad will compress. Doesn't have to be a 3M, Hardware stores have their brand names. Use a little mineral oil or Olive oil as I do.
Actually, I use a range rod. Hope this clears things.

 

[mooman76]

Equal grain to caliber is usually a good starting place but small calibers and pistols, half a grain is better. I wouldn't call 40 small, more like one the edge of smallish. Dropping some wouldn't hurt, see how it does. I wouldn't exactly call 40gr a hot load either.

 

[ohio ramrod]

The patches seem to be burned. I advise an over powder wad between the powder and patched round ball. A simple test would be to "wad up" a cleaning patch between the powder and patched ball.

 

[.36Rooster]

I am no expert at reading patches, but I'll tell you, a .535 actually cuts my patch in my hawken whereas a .530 leaves a patch you could almost reuse after shooting. I see no cut marks or indentations on your patches.

However, if I shoot 90 or 100 grains, my patch looks about like yours, all frayed, and even scorched somewhat (my best performing load is 65-70 grains...)

I suspect if you back off your powder charge, the problem will just go away on its own. I don't think the fraying is because theyre too tight. Just try this: shoot a group, back off 5 or 10 grains, shoot another, and repeat, backing off 5-10 grains with each group. Let your new load be whichever is your best group. See if the problem goes away. If it doesn't, and you still have frayed patches, try then adjusting thickness of ball and patch combos. But I suspect you are loading too hot, or that your patches are too dry. In fact, i would bet if you load much hotter, you would see burns all over those frays.

Now, needing a hammer to start your ball would be a sign that you are too tight...and you may be. But i don't see it from the pictures, your load is literally blowing those patches apart, which seems to be the bigger issue; and your accuracy will probably increase without all that gas-escape occurring when you back off on the powder.

 

[MSW]

i think that your patches might be a bit tight. when you get a good balance of ball diameter and patch thickness and lube, you should be able to smack the ball into the muzzle and run it down the barrel without significant difficulty (use of a mallet count as 'difficulty,' in my opinion.)

you may want to check out Dutch Schoultz' method. He focuses on percussion systems, but the principle is the same for flint. Here's a link
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/
this is, to my mind, the best non-shooting accessory you an buy.

goof luck in your quest for the prefect load, and, as always,

make good smoke

 

[Gvilleddie]

I wouldn’t use gun oil for lube. Try olive oil or mink oil.

 

[Stony Broke]

Stony…. What is your mix ratio… I’ve seen other’s talk about this and I would like to try it. I’ve got Murphy’s Oil Soap. Also, I’ve read others use alcohol with it.

Thanks, Mule

I mix a cup of Murphy's with a bottle of Windex 23 oz. size. It works great out of a little spray bottle that's easy to carry around. The mix not only makes a great patch lube, it works great to clean the bore with too. I've used it for many years with no complaints...the Murhpy's just gives you a little slippery lube in the mix, and the Windex already has alcohol in it.

 

[Sparkitoff]

I have questions I did not see above. It appears to be blue-striped pillow ticking. Did you wash it before using it? How many times and how did you dry it and how. Did you cut at the muzzle? With what? How did you lube it? Bulk, rub each patch, whatever. Somewhere in your methodology you can make a change that will make a difference. You need to figure out where/when to make that change. With the right info, someone here can help.

 

[Grenadier1758]

My favorite patch material, shown with the 0.535 ball target is JoAnn's cotton drill found with the other utility cloth. I wash it before use. I do recommend washing any off the bolt cloth to wash the sizing out and drying with high heat to tighten up the weave. The thickness doesn't change much, but it feels softer and holds lubricant better.

 

[Mule333]

I mix a cup of Murphy's with a bottle of Windex 23 oz. size. It works great out of a little spray bottle that's easy to carry around. The mix not only makes a great patch lube, it works great to clean the bore with too. I've used it for many years with no complaints...the Murhpy's just gives you a little slippery lube in the mix, and the Windex already has alcohol in it.

Great! Thanks!…. Ok, so… 8oz in a cup (Murphy’s) into 23oz of Windex, that’s 1/3 Murphy’s into 2/3 Windex…. I’ll try it!