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I use pillow ticking about .015 lubed with crisco. To protect the patch I put a .45 acp case full of corn meal between the powder and ball. Works like a champ!
 
I'm in the .015 patch group, lubed with Mink Oil, also. With a .490 Ball You should have the proper patch tension in the bore, and very little to no burn through...
 
I use 70gr FFFG with a .497 Ball and .22 pillow tick soaked in 3 rivers solvent/patch lube from The Gun Works and get clover leafs at 50yds. Works in my gun. California Custom half stock .50 Cal by Andy Fautheree.
 
Try .010, .015 and .018 patches (all are easy to find in a cloth store)

Try 70, 80, 90 grains with each patch size.

Try them all dry and wet.

You will spend less than $5 and have a great time. Then tell us what lube/load/patch is best. None of them are dangerous...
 
My favorite patch material is .024 denim pre-lubed with microwaved Wonderlube. They compress more than you'd expect. The fired patches look like they could be used again with a little re-lube.
 
Play around with some different lubes, patch sizes but keep an eye on the groups. I have seen some folks drive themselves nuts trying to avoid any burned or shredded pathces while laying balls ontop of each other at the range.
 
tg said:
Play around with some different lubes, patch sizes but keep an eye on the groups. I have seen some folks drive themselves nuts trying to avoid any burned or shredded pathces while laying balls ontop of each other at the range.

I agree - if you get the best groups with a load that is the best load - who cares what the patches look like?
 
I disagree. I have seen dozens of shooters putting balls one on top of the other, at 25 yards, with their patches torn and smoldering in the grass 20-30 feet in front of the firing line. Then, when they move back to even the 50 yard line, they find that they can't even hit a 12" square paper target consistently, if at all! And forget using that load and gun to shoot at 100 yd. targets- standing off-hand or firmly mounted on sand bags in as stable bench rest.

It happened to me, ONCE. Now I pick up and read all my patches, and " drive myself NUTS" working on loads that do not produce torn patches when shooting PRBs. :blah: :hmm: :surrender: :thumbsup:

It isn't that difficult to get it right, IMHO.
 
Paul - I bow to your experience. At my club I've always shot at 25 and 50 yards, never farther. If I get a load to work at 50 I've never asked what it might do at 100 (I don't hunt with muzzleloaders, in fact I have rarely hunted).

I'm suprised a load could work great at 25 and be lousy at 100, but I believe you. It would be easier to understand with a long conical bullet versus a round ball, but the proof is in the shooting.
 
I would suggest you try things for yourself before bowing to much, dozens and dozens of shooters? seems like more time was spent watching than shooting to me :idunno: and I did not mention 25-50 yds groups as I recall


"drive myself NUTS" Oh! BTW congratulations on a job well done :thumbsup:
 
As Swampy stated you should try a thicker patch and\or lube, but never change two things at the same time. Try the lube and see what you get after shooting 4 or 5 targets then try the thicker patch and see what difference that makes. If you change more than one thing at a time you won't know which one made the difference.
 
dixie gun works sells synthetic sperm whale oil. the old timers yoused to say whale oil workd the best of all from what i have herd. now you would halve to go with the fake stuff. but it is all natural. it is made from some sort of seed oil
 
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