Need to make a part into a spring, procedure?

[Sidney Smith]

On another thread I started, I showed the progress on my matchlocks lock. At this time, I will need a flat spring to return the serpentine(cock), back into battery after firing. The kit included a part (see picture), that I'm positive is to be said spring. My dilemma is, in its current form it isn't spring steel. Is it possible to make this part into spring steel?

Note, I have not worked this part at all yet because I was simply going to purchase a flat spring and work it into this lock. However, if I can make the part that was included in the kit into a spring I will. I just need to know how.

Thanks.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Haven't made an oven yet, but here's a way cool (as in 'Hot', LOL!) easy to DIY mini fire brick forge that should be perfect for small parts.

Link = https://www.thegeekpub.com/1495/how-to-make-a-homemade-mini-forge/

 

[PhDBrewer]

That spring you show is 6150 steel.
You need to shape it, harden it, polish it, and then temper it.
If you need to bend it, anneal it first to ensure it will not snap.
It is exactly what you need.

William

 

[PhDBrewer]

Working with 6150

Annealing is done by heating to 1550 degrees and allowingit to slowly cool.

To harden, heat to 1600 degrees and oil quench.

Tempering is done between 650 and 700 degrees.

A cast replacement spring from somewhere like Track of the Wolf or The Rifle Shoppe will require you to do the final polishing, shaping, and heat treating.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

... wouldn't you polish before hardening?

 

[acavdragoon]

Quenching in different items? Oil, room temperature water, hot boiling water, salt brine solution, just letting your item to cool naturally, and I’m sure I’m missing some quenching mediums. What’s the best way to quench your springs and other items?

 

[PhDBrewer]

... wouldn't you polish before hardening?

Well... I always pre-polish BEFORE hardening. Always in the direction of the lever arm. ( Think of a spring as lever that returns to its normal position after being stressed.)
However, I always polish AFTER hardening to ensure that all micro-cracks that can appear on the surface after hardening are eliminated. I also polish after tempering unless I like the color of the part afterwards.
William