New Crocket .32 Squirrel Rifle

[ETipp]

Forgot to note in my previous post that on the Crockett kit, they had installed the wedge escutcheons and then sanded the stock including the escutcheons and screws, there was barely a slot left on the screws and no detail left on the escutcheons. I found out by checking the inletting with a T/C Hawken escutcheon that it was a perfect fit, even the screw holes matched up. So I ordered brass T/C Hawken escutcheons and screws from The Gun Works, blackened and replaced the factory escutcheons on the Crockett. I did use the supplied wedge that came with the Crockett.View attachment 202447

That looks very nice. The stock one that came on my Crockett rifle is nowhere near that sturdy.

So how is the wood on that one? I have a pretty good idea that I will be refinishing mine. I just do not like the stock finish. I have no idea what kind of wood it is, most likely some sort of European hardwood.

 

[French Colonial]

I almost bought a .32 Crocket at a gun show last week end, $300.00

 

[ETipp]

I almost bought a .32 Crocket at a gun show last week end, $300.00

If it was in decent shape you could have made $150.00 on that one, and quick like, too.

 

[user 48702]

That looks very nice. The stock one that came on my Crockett rifle is nowhere near that sturdy.

So how is the wood on that one? I have a pretty good idea that I will be refinishing mine. I just do not like the stock finish. I have no idea what kind of wood it is, most likely some sort of European hardwood.

The wood that Traditions uses is beech and it's very hard to stain. The soft grain will not take the stain evenly, and can turn extremely dark in those areas. Once you get it stripped and sanded, you will need to give the stock several coats, at least two coats of tru-oil or shellac and you'll need to thin either with denatured alcohol so it will give good grain penetration. Be sure to let thoroughly dry, and sand back in between coats. All your trying to do is seal the soft or end grain so it will take your final stain as evenly as possible. Once you have sanded back the second or third coat, then apply your stain. Do a search on the forum on how to finish a beech wood stock and you'll get plenty of ideas. I tried this method on my stock and as you can see, I still ended up with a lot of dark areas, but it kinda grows on you.

 

[ETipp]

The wood that Traditions uses is beech and it's very hard to stain. The soft grain will not take the stain evenly, and can turn extremely dark in those areas. Once you get it stripped and sanded, you will need to give the stock several coats, at least two coats of tru-oil or shellac and you'll need to thin either with denatured alcohol so it will give good grain penetration. Be sure to let thoroughly dry, and sand back in between coats. All your trying to do is seal the soft or end grain so it will take your final stain as evenly as possible. Once you have sanded back the second or third coat, then apply your stain. Do a search on the forum on how to finish a beech wood stock and you'll get plenty of ideas. I tried this method on my stock and as you can see, I still ended up with a lot of dark areas, but it kinda grows on you.

Thanks, Gunny.

Just as I had figured. I have refinished many gun stocks since 1981 for myself and many others, so I am well acclimated to the process. Just by looking at my Crockett Rifle I knew it was going to be that way. Kind of like what some call Gun Wood. I have that on CVA kit rifle. I dislike the stuff.

Either way, its going to be refinished. I'll figure out how to get that CVA and my Crockett rifle dark like I want. Might take some doing but I seem to always get it done.

Going back and looking at what little I can see in the pic you posted, the dark areas gives it character and is acceptable IMO. I know not if the factory wood is the same as on their kit Crockett rifles.

 

[ETipp]

Gunny, can you post a couple more pictures of your Crockett rifle that shows a bit more of your finished stock.

 

[user 48702]

Did you check out my first post within this thread? I put a link to a photo album with a dozen or so photos.

 

[ETipp]

Did you check out my first post within this thread? I put a link to a photo album with a dozen or so photos.

I'll go back and look for it.

Thanks.

 

[ETipp]

Once you tinker with it and figure the right ball/patch combination, your going to love it. I stroked the bore with a scouring pad patch and cleaning rod for about 100 strokes to smooth the bore, which will remove any sharp edges and burrs in the bore. I use a .10 linen for a patch, spit for lube, and .315 balls in a clean barrel, and after a dozen shots or so when I feel resistance, I'll switch to a .310 ball, very accurate with either ball. I've never had to swab the bore out in the field unless the humidity was high. I bought a kit from Dixie back in July, so I could see what I could do with it. Lots of work, I de-farbed the barrel, stripped the faux case color from the lock and browned lock and barrel with Laurel Mountain Browning Solution. I changed both front and rear sights, made a hickory ramrod from TOW, and replaced the lock bolts and tang bolt. I thinned the stock down considerably, lengthened the wrist, and blackened the brass with B/Ox 312 blackening/browning solution. B/Ox 312 is not a durable finish, but as it wears, it has a nice aged patina. I found everything I needed parts wise at TOW.

Here's some photos of what you can do with a Crockett when you have a little time.

Crockett Rifle Kit From Start to Finish

Okay, now I see what you mean about a few dark spots. Interesting for sure. Kind of like Gun Wood. It still turned out okay, however. You did good.

 

[Daytime Smoker]

The wood that Traditions uses is beech and it's very hard to stain. The soft grain will not take the stain evenly, and can turn extremely dark in those areas. Once you get it stripped and sanded, you will need to give the stock several coats, at least two coats of tru-oil or shellac and you'll need to thin either with denatured alcohol so it will give good grain penetration. Be sure to let thoroughly dry, and sand back in between coats. All your trying to do is seal the soft or end grain so it will take your final stain as evenly as possible. Once you have sanded back the second or third coat, then apply your stain. Do a search on the forum on how to finish a beech wood stock and you'll get plenty of ideas. I tried this method on my stock and as you can see, I still ended up with a lot of dark areas, but it kinda grows on you.

I’ve thought about refinishing mine in time. To be honest, I like the darker look, it gives it sort of a worn and handled look. It adds some character. I would like to see more pictures it you have them.

Thanks for the information that you have provided.

Anthony

 

[user 48702]

I’ve thought about refinishing mine in time. To be honest, I like the darker look, it gives it sort of a worn and handled look. It adds some character. I would like to see more pictures it you have them.

Thanks for the information that you have provided.

Anthony

Thanks! Photo album link below

Crockett Rifle Kit From Start to Finish

 

[Daytime Smoker]

Thanks! Photo album link below

Crockett Rifle Kit From Start to Finish

Thank you, sir!

Anthony

 

[Big Tom 52]

Just saw the thread but thats a nice lookin rifle! By now you probably got a few squirrels for the pot.

 

[Ohio Rusty]

I ordered mine last fall and I was pleased how well the rifle fit me. The Length of pull (LOP) was perfect for me. The bad thing about mine someone dropped it on the floor before putting it in the shipping box and the front sight was badly bent over.You would have thought the person that dropped it knew the sight was bent but didn't replace it with anew one. I have straightened the sight back to as 90 degrees as I can get it with an iron block and a small copper hammer. I also bought a Lee .309 round ball mould for the rifle. I just haven't shot it yet but I'm anxious to send those little pills down range using the new RWS 1075 Plus caps I got last week in teh mail from Powder Valley.
Ohio Rusty ><>

 

[Moleman]

The ball starter is easy to make if you're so inclined. I used a dried out mullberry limb out of my brush pile and a 1/4" dowel rod.
30 minute project.

 

[Idahomie]

Right on! Good find.

It doesn’t surprise me that Traditions doesn’t include any paraphernalia. Pedersoli typically doesn’t either, even on firearms costing in excess of $1,500.