New flinter with questions

[byronw999]

Hey all...

I've been shooting my .50 cal Hawkins Capper for a couple years now... Decided to add a flinter to my collection.. I've settled on the Lyman GPR in .54 cal kit form so I can brown the barrel and finish the stock as I'd like.. I may add a L&R replacement lock to it if I dont like the Lyman..I have a few questions:

Is there a FAQ/ help file on assembly, finish teqniques etc..

Can a patchbox be added to it? Just always thought these looked cool..

I cast my own, so best RB size for this? I'm guessing with modern machining these are consistent from gun to gun?

Thanks in advance!

 

[mykeal]

Is there a FAQ/ help file on assembly, finish teqniques etc..

Go to The Gun Builders Bench subforum under Workshops on this forum and do a search on the GPR. There are several well documented threads on building the GPR kit with many options on finish, etc. There's also a good thread on how to reshape the kit stock to closer resemble the Hawken standard, or just to improve the look, if you prefer.

Can a patchbox be added to it?

Sure.

best RB size for this?

That's harder to answer. There are two main candidates: .530 and .535. Some like one, and some like the other. Depends on patching too, of course. I use .530 with 0.018 pillow ticking, lubed with 1:6 Ballistol/water mix and dried.

The GPR barrel will require about 100 rounds of 'break in' before you can really tune in the accuracy, so spend that time just getting used to it and don't be too concerned if it isn't grouping well at first.

 

[MikeChapin]

Ditto here for what Mykeal said.

The only thing I would add is to clean the preservative out of the barrel. Whatever they use will really gunk up a barrel if you fire it while it is still in there. Most people around here mention brake cleaner to clean the stuff out.

I would also advise drilling the touch hole out to 1/16" before you start. It will save you a lot of flashes in the pan.

 

[ebiggs1]

There is a thread named "GPR lock" and "GPR second time" that is stating my difficulties on getting the GPR lock and touch hole liner to work good. You may want to read them so you don't have to experience the same troubles.
My new GPR was terrible on flint life and the geometry was poor. The touchhole was smaller than 1/16th inch.
I have 50 shots through mine now and I believe it’s going to shoot better than I can, plus the 54 are just awesome!
EB

 

[R.M.]

You will probably find that .530" balls will work the best for the first few hundred shots, then as the bore slickens up, you "might" progress to .535".

 

[byronw999]

Thanks all!

 

[mdtnhunter]

The GPR kit is an easy build. I built one a few months ago in percussion. I used Permylin as a finish toned down with 0000 steel wool. I shot it with a .530 ball, 80 grains of 2f, and .015 patch and it was a tackdriver at 60 yards with that load. Good Luck with yours. I think that you will like it.

 

[cowpoke1955]

md,
I bought a .54 GPR production percussion 30 years ago and a .54 GPR flint kit 3 years ago. I shoot the same load as you do in both of mine, with the same results. The only thing different is I use Wal-Mart pillow ticking, which measures at .018. Great load, plenty of power and mild recoil :thumbsup:

 

[David W.]

I have used two finishes that produce great results, aquafortis and tobacco juice. Tobacco juice finish can be made from cutting up plugs and soaking it in ammonia for two weeks and then strained through cheese cloth. Add 5% nitric acid to the finish. Experiment with scrap wood to be get exact hue you want. It really soaks into the wood instead of mearly sitting on the surface. Next, go to Natural Watco Danish oil finish, 0000 steel wool, then in steps, 1000, 1500, and finally 2000 wet or dry with a coat of Watco between each step. You need to let the Watco set for 24 to 48 hours depending on humidity between sanding. Plan on about two weeks to finish the wood. Good results are not hastened.

There are different ways to brown the metal. One of the best IMO, is Birchwood Casey Plumb Brown hot finish. Another way is to use nitric acid and desolve steel wool until the acid will not take any more. Apply the solution to heated metal. You can emerse the parts in boiling water and wipe it on using rubber gloves. Extreme care MUST be taken when making this solution. You want to do this outside as not to breathe it and of course, you do not want to get any of this on your skin or clothing. Card the metal in between coats and repeat to get the color you are looking for. The last step is to give the metal a light coat of beeswax, again to heated metal and buff it out.

 

[jbtusa]

I use a .530 cast ball with 80 gr. of FF Goex. Tackdriver!

 

[BadHorse]

i built one in 50 a couple years ago, and i love the gun! i have custom flinters and my gpr is still my go to! dead easy to build, the only things to watch for are the alignment of the vent hole to pan, and wax the screws for the escutchens.

heres mine

 

[mdtnhunter]

The triggers were inlet too deep on mine and the tang bolt didn't want to line up just right with the hole, but all in all it was an easy build and a great shooter. I would recommend one to anyone.