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New Flintlock Will Not Shoot Round Balls
- Thread starter ruderam
- Start date
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I've used Pyrodex (by mistake) in my flinters and it did fire.
Sometimes it took 2 or 3 pan primes to get it to do it but eventually it did fire.
When it did fire there was a real delay, as long as 1/2 second and I know that most most flintlock shooters would find that totally unacceptable.
Sometimes it took 2 or 3 pan primes to get it to do it but eventually it did fire.
When it did fire there was a real delay, as long as 1/2 second and I know that most most flintlock shooters would find that totally unacceptable.
Pyrodex is not 777! :hmm:
Pyrodex does work, after a fashion, but 777? :idunno:
And, I have been unable to get anything approaching acceptable results using anything but BP as a prime. Even in the Firestorm and therein lies the issue. If you need BP for prime why not use it as the main load?
IMHO, I see none of the subs offering any clear advantage over Pyrodex for side lock shooters. Cap locks included.
Pyrodex does work, after a fashion, but 777? :idunno:
And, I have been unable to get anything approaching acceptable results using anything but BP as a prime. Even in the Firestorm and therein lies the issue. If you need BP for prime why not use it as the main load?
IMHO, I see none of the subs offering any clear advantage over Pyrodex for side lock shooters. Cap locks included.
hanshi
Cannon
That's great news. With a flintlock you just have to make friends first, then it will shoot for you.
simeon england
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2012
- Messages
- 134
- Reaction score
- 0
Howdy!
Glad your flinter is shooting now!
As a possible reason to the problem, I suggest there may have been a small metal burr or flap not cleaned up during the drilling process in your touch hole. When you loaded the RB, added compression (over the modern projectiles) would cause the flap to cover over some of the touch hole, causing no ignition. Shooting enough rounds through the gun, burned it off leaving no restriction.
Dont know. Not being able to see your gun and diagnosing a problem like this is like that blind nut that finds a squirrel every now and then.
Glad your flinter is shooting now!
As a possible reason to the problem, I suggest there may have been a small metal burr or flap not cleaned up during the drilling process in your touch hole. When you loaded the RB, added compression (over the modern projectiles) would cause the flap to cover over some of the touch hole, causing no ignition. Shooting enough rounds through the gun, burned it off leaving no restriction.
Dont know. Not being able to see your gun and diagnosing a problem like this is like that blind nut that finds a squirrel every now and then.
mr.flintlock
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2010
- Messages
- 487
- Reaction score
- 5
I am glad that you got her working properly. I use GOEX 3-f in every flintlock that I own from 32 cal to 62 cal. I use 4-f or Swiss Null-B to prime. Ignition is instantaneous. I never hear the flint strike. Also, I have learned that by using 3-f instead of 2-f I can use less powder to achieve the velocities that I desire. Also it seems to burn a little cleaner.
I'm in the same train of thought as you!!! I think I shot out the defect in the gun. I do not know any other answer. I have not done NOTHING different when loading & shooting the gun. All I know now is that it will fire ANYTHING at this point.
I'm just so happy that this Flinter will do what it should now. It is fantastic!
Thank You,
T.
I'm just so happy that this Flinter will do what it should now. It is fantastic!
Thank You,
T.
Greenjoytj
54 Cal.
When the problem first occurred I would have had the bore scoped.
A borescope will let you see if their is a problem with the patent breach and vent hole.
I hope you unscrewed the vent plug when you cleaned the bore.
What are you using to clean down into the patent breach area?
I use a 36 cal bronze brush and a 1/2" dowel that I have whittled down to fit into the patent breach with a patch wrapped around it.
Saw or slit the whittled end to allow a patch to be held tight in the slit.
With the vent liner out I can see the brush and the cloth patch when its down to the bottom of the patent breach.
Check the the back side of the vent plug for fouling packed into it.
My vent plug is a RMC replacement and works much better. I get fewer almost no FTF incidences it has a larger vent hole and what it think is more important, it has a large and deep hole bored in the bore side which shortens the flame path to the larger mass of powder the migrates into this hole on loading.
At the range when firing many shots I up end the rifle and brush out the patent breach area after about 8 shots as I usually start to get failure to fire at about 9 to 12 shots. I learned to dry brush the patent breach after every 8th shot, this has stopped the last of my FTF incidences.
As for loading, I keep the cock is down in the fired position.
After the barrel is loaded the cock is place in the half cock position and the pan is charged with 4fg and then the cover is closed.
I try to carry the rifle (Lyman GPR 54) so as to keep the prime away from the vent only because this rifle has a very small gap between the side of the barrel and the pan cover. Its wide enough to allow the 4fg prime to slowly leak out the gap. I'll have to get around to deepening the lock plate mortise to close this gap, but so far it doesn't bug me enough to fix it.
I check on the volume of prime frequently and replace it if I think it needs replacing due to damp hunting conditions.
A borescope will let you see if their is a problem with the patent breach and vent hole.
I hope you unscrewed the vent plug when you cleaned the bore.
What are you using to clean down into the patent breach area?
I use a 36 cal bronze brush and a 1/2" dowel that I have whittled down to fit into the patent breach with a patch wrapped around it.
Saw or slit the whittled end to allow a patch to be held tight in the slit.
With the vent liner out I can see the brush and the cloth patch when its down to the bottom of the patent breach.
Check the the back side of the vent plug for fouling packed into it.
My vent plug is a RMC replacement and works much better. I get fewer almost no FTF incidences it has a larger vent hole and what it think is more important, it has a large and deep hole bored in the bore side which shortens the flame path to the larger mass of powder the migrates into this hole on loading.
At the range when firing many shots I up end the rifle and brush out the patent breach area after about 8 shots as I usually start to get failure to fire at about 9 to 12 shots. I learned to dry brush the patent breach after every 8th shot, this has stopped the last of my FTF incidences.
As for loading, I keep the cock is down in the fired position.
After the barrel is loaded the cock is place in the half cock position and the pan is charged with 4fg and then the cover is closed.
I try to carry the rifle (Lyman GPR 54) so as to keep the prime away from the vent only because this rifle has a very small gap between the side of the barrel and the pan cover. Its wide enough to allow the 4fg prime to slowly leak out the gap. I'll have to get around to deepening the lock plate mortise to close this gap, but so far it doesn't bug me enough to fix it.
I check on the volume of prime frequently and replace it if I think it needs replacing due to damp hunting conditions.
