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New Gun: Am I Doing Something Wrong?

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Would it bend it without anything in the jaws? I haven’t had any flint or wood in the ****. It has been dry fired maybe 3-4 times (and will not again).
That's the issue people are trying to tell you about.....
The fact you have nothing in the jaws is why folks are correcting you about dry fire. Dry fire, properly done is good,,,,,, dry fire without a flint or small piece of wood to simulate a flint, in the jaws to strike the frizzen, transferring the energy to the frizzen like it is supposed too, is what could be damaging the lock.

Best thing here is listen to @Comfortably_Numb and @ColonialRifleSmith and take him up on his generous offer.
 
That's the issue people are trying to tell you about.....
The fact you have nothing in the jaws is why folks are correcting you about dry fire. Dry fire, properly done is good,,,,,, dry fire without a flint or small piece of wood to simulate a flint, in the jaws to strike the frizzen, transferring the energy to the frizzen like it is supposed too, is what could be damaging the lock.

Best thing here is listen to @Comfortably_Numb and @ColonialRifleSmith and take him up on his generous offer.
Trust me, I’m listening and learning. I appreciate everyone’s advice.
 
I have a related question concerning the bent **** screw.
Much has been made about dry fire without a flint and the potential damage to the screw from hitting a closed frizzen, which I will call direct mechanical damage.
I have heard or read that the bent screw can come about from what I will call inertial damage, where the screw is bent during dry fire without striking the frizzen. The mainspring on a Siler lock is quite strong and stores a large amount potential energy. The screw is typically not tightened down, so there is a lot of weight and length along the arc.
So long preamble to ask the question, “Is this type of screw bending more likely due to inertial damage, vs. direct mechanical damage?”
Thanks for helping me understand the results.
 
Thanks for that, I thought so. I finally found the reference to inertial damage.
I looked for it in the three or four books on building but finally found the answer typed in Jim Chambers instructions, “Do’s and Don’ts of Using a Chambers Flintlock“, where Jim states in bullet #4:
NEVER “dry fire” the lock, meaning NEVER snap the lock without a flint or piece of wood in the jaws to absorb the forward momentum and striking power exerted on the **** when it strikes the frizzen. “Dry firing” a flintlock will result in a bent top jaw screw with as little as two snaps, can break the ****, and can damage other parts. To cycle a flintlock, ALWAYS have a flint (or at least a wooden flint) in the jaws & make sure the frizzen is closed. (All caps emphasis by Jim).
 
Thanks for that, I thought so. I finally found the reference to inertial damage.
I looked for it in the three or four books on building but finally found the answer typed in Jim Chambers instructions, “Do’s and Don’ts of Using a Chambers Flintlock“, where Jim states in bullet #4:
NEVER “dry fire” the lock, meaning NEVER snap the lock without a flint or piece of wood in the jaws to absorb the forward momentum and striking power exerted on the **** when it strikes the frizzen. “Dry firing” a flintlock will result in a bent top jaw screw with as little as two snaps, can break the ****, and can damage other parts. To cycle a flintlock, ALWAYS have a flint (or at least a wooden flint) in the jaws & make sure the frizzen is closed. (All caps emphasis by Jim).
Or, lower the **** with hand pressure so it doesn't snap forward.
 
I will jump on this "bandwagon" also - first you are partly to blame as others have already noted, second the lock has a few issues that need to be addressed such as tumbler and ****, then a fly - sear issue. Send the lock back so that it can be properly fixed then do not dry fire the lock without either a flint or wood in the jaw.:thumb:
 
A huge thank you to @ColonialRifleSmith for getting this gun into working order. Really, it is hugely appreciated.

I contacted the builder through text to let him know of the continued issues. He has not replied. Shame.

Regardless, thanks to Rick, I have a beautiful smooth rifle to take squirrel hunting this September.
 

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A huge thank you to @ColonialRifleSmith for getting this gun into working order. Really, it is hugely appreciated.

I contacted the builder through text to let him know of the continued issues. He has not replied. Shame.

Regardless, thanks to Rick, I have a beautiful smooth rifle to take squirrel hunting this September.
That colonial rifle guy must be one heck of a nice guy. I’ve been on this sight 8 months or so and by my count he volunteered to fix two rifles that guys were having big problems with. If I ever need any work done he’ll be the guy I contact. I believe he is in PA so for me that’s a plus.
 
That colonial rifle guy must be one heck of a nice guy. I’ve been on this sight 8 months or so and by my count he volunteered to fix two rifles that guys were having big problems with. If I ever need any work done he’ll be the guy I contact. I believe he is in PA so for me that’s a plus.
He is top notch!
 
Not sure if this has been mentioned, but if the lock works outside the gun . . . and if you can **** the lock outside the gun and drop it on your workbench and it doesn't go off . . . then the lock is probably OK . . you may have wood in the lock inlet that swelled up when it was stained and finished or the builder didn't do a real good job inletting the lock. . . I would "smoke" the lock internals with a cheap candle, install it, **** it, remove it, and see if the lock marks any wood or finish that needs to be shaved off with a sharp chisel.

Another option that you could do, though somewhat imperfect and an indicator that the lock inlet needs worked on, is to see if your lock bolts are too tight. . . try loosening them a half or 3/4 turn and then see if the lock performs properly.

I guess it is also possible that the builder you sent it to, did the work in a low humidity shop and the wood shrunk and he didn't have the problem you have where you live, which again may indicate a fix needed in the lock inlet.

You have a nice rifle that deserves to be fixed and it may not be that big of a deal to fix.
 
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"I hate to believe that no work was done on the gun by the builder, he said he had addressed the issues. However the gun exhibits the same issues as it did when I sent it to him. I just want to ensure that my ignorance is not at fault before contacting g him for a refund and shipping it back. At this point it will have made the round trip from west to east coast twice at a little over $100 a pop each time it ships. So far he has covered all shipping costs."

As Many have stated the bent screw and possibly other issues were a direct result of the "Dry Firing." The Builder took a $200 hit because of the OP's lack of knowledge and shouldn't be blamed for it. He should be given an A+ for customer service. I understand his
reluctance to keep communicating with the OP.
Rick has fixed the problem and the Op now has a great rifle and more knowledge ....this is a great site. WZ

Report
 
"I hate to believe that no work was done on the gun by the builder, he said he had addressed the issues. However the gun exhibits the same issues as it did when I sent it to him. I just want to ensure that my ignorance is not at fault before contacting g him for a refund and shipping it back. At this point it will have made the round trip from west to east coast twice at a little over $100 a pop each time it ships. So far he has covered all shipping costs."

As Many have stated the bent screw and possibly other issues were a direct result of the "Dry Firing." The Builder took a $200 hit because of the OP's lack of knowledge and shouldn't be blamed for it. He should be given an A+ for customer service. I understand his
reluctance to keep communicating with the OP.
Rick has fixed the problem and the Op now has a great rifle and more knowledge ....this is a great site. WZ

Report
The bent screw I will take responsibility for if I’m the one that messed it up. The lock issues, no. The lock was not right when I received it either time. The builder offered to pay my return shipping to CA ($100) but did not follow through. He did cover the shipping back to NY. At this point I do not care, I’m happy with the rifle he built. I’m a bit disappointed that he has gone silent, as I have attempted let him know that the gun is fixed and I am well pleased with it. I would like to make sure he knows that he built a rifle that I’m proud to own.

Rick had work to do in correcting the lock fitting issues. You are correct that Rick fixed the issues and made this a nice gun. You are also correct that I have more knowledge. Finally, you are spot on that this is a great site!
 
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A huge thank you to @ColonialRifleSmith for getting this gun into working order. Really, it is hugely appreciated.

I contacted the builder through text to let him know of the continued issues. He has not replied. Shame.

Regardless, thanks to Rick, I have a beautiful smooth rifle to take squirrel hunting this September.
I know you had issue's with it but man that is a really sharp looking rifle!
 
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