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New Gun: Am I Doing Something Wrong?

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The bent screw I will take responsibility for if I’m the one that messed it up. The lock issues, no. The lock was not right when I received it either time. The builder offered to pay my return shipping to CA ($100) but did not follow through. He did cover the shipping back to NY. At this point I do not care, I’m happy with the rifle he built. I’m a bit disappointed that he has gone silent, as I have attempted let him know that the gun is fixed and I am well pleased with it. I would like to make sure he knows that he built a rifle that I’m proud to own.

Rick had work to do in correcting the lock fitting issues. You are correct that Rick fixed the issues and made this a nice gun. You are also correct that I have more knowledge. Finally, you are spot on that this is a great site!
O.K. I'll agree maybe not an A+ for the builder. However, It might be of interest if Rick might explain what the actual problem was with the lock ..... or was it just the fitting of the lock that wasn't up to snuff. If a problem was within the lock, it might bring more knowledge to the table as well as to the group that was following this thread. ( Locks are finicky animals and require proper bringing
up and understanding) " Have a Great Day" WZ
 
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O.K. I'll agree maybe not an A+ for the builder. However, It might be of interest if Rick might explain what the actual problem was with the lock ..... or was it just the fitting of the lock that wasn't up to snuff. If a problem was within the lock, it might bring more knowledge to the table as well as to the group that was following this thread. " Have Great Day" WZ
I’m not looking to rake anyone over the coals on this thread, the builder built a nice gun. I wanted to see if I was at fault. It sounds like that was the case to an extent, and not to another extent. It had some issues, but it’s a very nice piece. I don’t want to name the builder here, as I don’t and didn’t want this thread to be a negative review on his work, but I’d be afraid that is what it would become for some.
I don’t expect Rick to critique anyone else’s work. I know that Rick fixed some fitting issues around the lock and trigger. He did some inletting work and polished up the lock. I don’t know how much things were out, all I know is that I sent Rick a gun that didn’t work, and he sent me back one that did. I’m grateful for that.

Again, I’m not looking to grade the builder, he built a nice gun that I’m very happy with.
 
It looks like someone turned the screw all the way down hitting the hammer when it bottomed out and could have caused the screw to bend?
 
lookin good , was that gap behind the breech taken care of? could cause an issue if this is a large bore gun getting heavy loads. glad its finally right for you and a big :thumb: to the man who fixed it for you.
 
While I'm glad you're proud of it and have been professional and polite through all this, I hope you didn't pay very much for the gun. The fit, shape, and attention to detail is very sub-par in many ways. It actually looks like someone's very first plank build from random parts they picked out of a catalog and put together without any plans. The wood quality and finish looks quite nice though. I'm not saying you shouldn't be proud of it anyway, I'm proud of my first stocks even though some have major amateur mistakes in design, just that yours could have been a lot better and next time do more research before selecting a builder....like ask for a portfolio of their work.
 
While I'm glad you're proud of it and have been professional and polite through all this, I hope you didn't pay very much for the gun. The fit, shape, and attention to detail is very sub-par in many ways. It actually looks like someone's very first plank build from random parts they picked out of a catalog and put together without any plans. The wood quality and finish looks quite nice though. I'm not saying you shouldn't be proud of it anyway, I'm proud of my first stocks even though some have major amateur mistakes in design, just that yours could have been a lot better and next time do more research before selecting a builder....like ask for a portfolio of their work.
that's telling him! but you could have gone into more detail of how you really feel!
 
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If it will only go down the half **** when your tryi g to take the ****.to the fired position its be cause the sear arm is hitting inside the sear hole/ tunnel or the sear nose is touching the bottom of the mortice ,not going down far enough ,or the trigger is not moving quite far enough ,not enough travel . You can send it back or you can inlet black the inside of the lock , esp. on parts I mentioned , and see what is hitting . With these problems the lock will fire , lots of for e from that main spring , but when you are trying to let the ****.down slow there is not enough power to force it past the problem . It happens. Beat the top screw straight or buy a new one ,.... Best of luck
I recently purchased a flintlock Smooth Rifle from a builder on another forum. When I received the gun, I installed the lock and immediately noticed that the lock would only release to half **** when I thumbed it down. The only way to get the lock to fully release was to remove my thumb after placing it at full **** and engaging the trigger.

Additionally the top jaw screw appeared to be bent, only allowing the screw to turn less than a half turn before binding up. This will not allow me to adjust the top jaw down to secure the flint in the jaws.

When the lock is removed from the gun it seems to function correctly.

I communicated with the builder, and he asked me to ship the gun back so he could repair it. Upon his inspection, he said that it appeard that there was "some crud in the fly, not allowing it to move smoothly." He stated that he fixed the lock and cut the old jaw bolt out and replaced it with a new one.

I recieved the gun today, and all of the issues are still there, including what appears to be the bent top jaw screw. Now I'm questioning if I'm doing something wrong. I'll admit that I'm new to flintlocks, but I just cannot see what I'd be doing wrong to make the same issues recur. Before I contact the builder again, I wanted to have some more experienced eyes take a look at what is happening and tell me if there are actual problems, or if I'm just an *****. There are a couple of videos below demonstrating the issues I'm experiencing. Thanks in advance!
 
You must have me confused with someone else...
( I hope you didn't pay very much for the gun. The fit, shape, and attention to detail is very sub-par in many ways. It actually looks like someone's very first plank build from random parts they picked out of a catalog and put together without any plans)

no, that's you alright,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
O.K. I'll agree maybe not an A+ for the builder. However, It might be of interest if Rick might explain what the actual problem was with the lock ..... or was it just the fitting of the lock that wasn't up to snuff. If a problem was within the lock, it might bring more knowledge to the table as well as to the group that was following this thread. ( Locks are finicky animals and require proper bringing
up and understanding) " Have a Great Day" WZ
OK, When I received the rifle, the issues were as stated. I removed the lock, disassembled it, polished the internals and tuned it. When I put the lock back in the mortice, the issue still persists. I coated the inside of the lock with black and tried again. Several parts of the lock were hitting wood, most of all the sear was rubbing the back of the sear hole. I removed any wood that was making contact with moving parts and opened the sear hole a little more. Problem solved. I straightened the jaw screw, put a flint in it and tested it. Worked as it should. If the original builder would have tested the rifle, he would have caught these issues before selling it. Semper Fi.
 
The lock needs someone who knows flintlocks - not necessarily the maker- to tune it. The builder has had a shot at it; I'd take ColonialRifleSmith up on his offer.

I don't see a reason to send the whole rifle, just to get the lock tuned. Once it's tuned, you should know if the other problems are in the fit into the lock recess or fit to the trigger.
wood, it'll be a good chance for you for to learn about your rifle and it's maintenance.

If there the mechanism is binding on the wood, smoke it over a candle (either the lock or the recess).
Reinstall the lock; work it; remove it and look for rub marks on the wood. Carefully scrape the wood down and repeat, until there's no more binding.

If there's still a problem, look at the fit between the trigger and the lock. Before adjusting metal fits, try loosening the trigger guard & slip a paper shim or two. If lowering the trigger a bit eases the problem, might indicate where to adjust a metal fit.

On the positive, to give the builder credit, the flint ends up aimed straight into the pan and the wood to metal fit looks pretty good.

Have fun. Part of BP attraction (for me), is the enforced involvement. It's a lifelong learning experience. Welcome to the addiction.
 
OK, When I received the rifle, the issues were as stated. I removed the lock, disassembled it, polished the internals and tuned it. When I put the lock back in the mortice, the issue still persists. I coated the inside of the lock with black and tried again. Several parts of the lock were hitting wood, most of all the sear was rubbing the back of the sear hole. I removed any wood that was making contact with moving parts and opened the sear hole a little more. Problem solved. I straightened the jaw screw, put a flint in it and tested it. Worked as it should. If the original builder would have tested the rifle, he would have caught these issues before selling it. Semper Fi.
Thanks, I didn’t mean for you to get drug in on this. I appreciate the work that you did to get the gun working, as well as your description of the issues that you corrected. Thank you so much!
 
OK, When I received the rifle, the issues were as stated. I removed the lock, disassembled it, polished the internals and tuned it. When I put the lock back in the mortice, the issue still persists. I coated the inside of the lock with black and tried again. Several parts of the lock were hitting wood, most of all the sear was rubbing the back of the sear hole. I removed any wood that was making contact with moving parts and opened the sear hole a little more. Problem solved. I straightened the jaw screw, put a flint in it and tested it. Worked as it should. If the original builder would have tested the rifle, he would have caught these issues before selling it. Semper Fi.
Thank You, for helping the OP and for replying to the question of what the problem was. It's going to help many of us that need to
be more logical about investigating the possible effects of fit and function....... (Before we start taking things apart and getting into trouble).
We really appreciate the knowledge provided on this forum and those that provide it!! WZ
 
That colonial rifle guy must be one heck of a nice guy. I’ve been on this sight 8 months or so and by my count he volunteered to fix two rifles that guys were having big problems with. If I ever need any work done he’ll be the guy I contact. I believe he is in PA so for me that’s a plus.
He built a Southern mountain rifle for me and it is superb. One of most prized possessions.
 
( I hope you didn't pay very much for the gun. The fit, shape, and attention to detail is very sub-par in many ways. It actually looks like someone's very first plank build from random parts they picked out of a catalog and put together without any plans)

no, that's you alright,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Oh, so only Mike Brooks is allowed to point out the truth regarding sub-par builds? But if I do it it's seen as being rude or hurting someone's feelings?

This place is seriously screwed up.
 
Oh, so only Mike Brooks is allowed to point out the truth regarding sub-par builds? But if I do it it's seen as being rude or hurting someone's feelings?

This place is seriously screwed up.
i have no idea about Mike brooks, or what he does or don't point out. i just know the man asked for help and is new to flintlocks, he didn't ask for a rundown on how good or bad of a deal he got on his gun! or if it is junk or not! that has absolutely nothing to do with his problem! he needs help and not criticism! you are correct on one thing, it can be screwed up,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
The lock appears to have been damaged from dry firing. I bet the **** is bent too.

The **** is loose on the tumbler. That could be easy to fix or a big problem. Hopefully the tumbler was not poorly fitted to the **** with a bunch of slop.

The business about catching at half **** is not a big issue. The fly is working. It is not a good situation either. I bet the internals are rough and that is causing the sticking. Somebody who understands flintlocks may be able to smooth it up. There could also be some wood interference issues. IT may also have sloppy parts fit and as cast parts. That would be more of a problem.

Based on what I see I would not trust the builder to get it right the second time either.
 
The lock appears to have been damaged from dry firing. I bet the **** is bent too.

The **** is loose on the tumbler. That could be easy to fix or a big problem. Hopefully the tumbler was not poorly fitted to the **** with a bunch of slop.

The business about catching at half **** is not a big issue. The fly is working. It is not a good situation either. I bet the internals are rough and that is causing the sticking. Somebody who understands flintlocks may be able to smooth it up. There could also be some wood interference issues. IT may also have sloppy parts fit and as cast parts. That would be more of a problem.

Based on what I see I would not trust the builder to get it right the second time either.
A little late coming to the game. Rifle is fixed and everyone is happy ...... Have a Great Day . WZ
 
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