New guy with questions.

[Hoosier96]

Hi there, im new to the forum and have a couple questions. First off, sorry if this is a previously asked question.

Ive been muzzleloading for about 10 years now, my poison has been a thompson center hawkin that i bought from on older gentlemen i know, that retired from hunting (at 87 years old, what a champ!). Ive always had the itch to get a flintlock and i finally did. Just came in the mail today, a traditions made Kentucky long rifle.

My main question is, where can i get flints and what's best? I bought a 2 pack of traditions 2 sided flints. I don't like them. They where sticky for Some reason, and they are very inconsistent, both in when they spark, and how they spark. No one around here sells black powder supplies anymore God forbid flints. Where do you fellows get them, and what do you recommend?

My 2nd question is priming powder. Right now im using FFg because that's all i have. It seems to have quite the delay to it. Ive heard some guys run FFFg and FFFFg for priming powder. Does it make enough difference to be worth it?

Also what about leather for the ****? I cut a strip off a old possible pouch for now, but where else could i find some good high quality leather?

And finally. How much power should i prime the pan with? Just a little, or fill her up? I realize more powder means more flash, which means more flinch for a new guy like me. But will it lead to faster ignition?
Thanks in advance guys.

 

[Daryl Crawford]

Other smarter folks will chime in but I'll answer a couple things.
Priming: I use 4f but anything up to 2f works. With 4f, I use 3 grains. Don't overload the pan, it doesn't help, it just is dirty and distracting.
Leather: you can use just about any good leather. I'm using the tongue off an old pair of leather boots. I've used cuttings from an old leather work glove.
Flints: measure the width of the frizzen, your flint shouldn't be wider. Check out Track of the Wolf on line. I get mine locally at Dixon's here in eastern PA, but TOTW has a range of flints.
Welcome to the forum...and the addiction!

 

[Grenadier1758]

You will be okay with using 3fg powder for both the main charge and the prime charge. I use a line of powder about 1/2 pan full all across the bottom of the pan. You shouldn't need more than that.

You are using @Hoosier96 as your name. That puts you as a resident of Indiana. The NMLRA headquarters is in Friendship, Indiana.

One of the better sources for supplies is Track of the Wolf. They have an excellent supply of black English gun flints.

Go to your local Goodwill store or resale shop and an old purse, leather gloves or leather belt can supply your needs for leather. Tandy Crafts will also have a good selection of leather.

 

[Critter Getter]

Check Track of the Wolf for supplies including flints. Also I think there is a thread that
is a sticky at the top of this flintlock section called Flintlock Tips........good info there. Good luck. Greg

 

[Justin.44]

You are using @Hoosier96 as your name. That puts you as a resident of Indiana.

Well it's always possible he's one of our St. Louis hoosiers!

 

[Grenadier1758]

Could be he also moved from there. He capitalized Hoosier. Likely Indiana.

Hard to give someone directions to a place to get supplies if he doesn't identify his location.

 

[Spikebuck]

Welcome to the forum.

Flints. I've found Stonewall Creek to have better flints than Track...and I buy a lot of other stuff from Track.

Prime...I use 4F, but I don't notice much difference than 3F. Personally, I don't like 2F. I think it is noticeably slower.

Leather for the flint...lots of good cheap sources mentioned. I will say that both Chambers and Kibler send pretty thin leather with the flint that comes with their locks. Take that for whatever it's worth.

Amount of prime? It usually doesn't take a lot...experiment and see what works best in your rifle. I will say that I use a little more when hunting because just a little can shift as you carry and tilt the gun carrying it around and bunch up in one small place. I want to be sure the bottom of the pan stays covered for best chance to catch a spark when in the field.

 

[Hoosier96]

This is faster than adressing everyone individually and probably doesnt feel as personal, but Thanks for the help guys, i appreciate it a lot.i ll for sure check out track of the wolf. And yes as the name inplies i am from Indiana. Ive heard of the muzzleloader shoot in friendship but ive never been, however we do have a good selection of living history events such as "1812" in missisiniwa and "kohkohmah" a french and indian wars event just out side of kokomo. The flintlock bug really got started at such events.

 

[BJamesBeck]

I just order a dozen black English flints from stonewall creek and have been very happy so far. I use 3f for main charge and 4f for priming but could probably prime with 3f. I just have the 4f so might as well use it.

 

[smo]

Deer Creek sells powder and Muzzleloading supplies. They are just South of Indianapolis.

Welcome too the Forum, you really need too make a trip too Friendship if at all possible....

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Hi there, im new to the forum and have a couple questions. First off, sorry if this is a previously asked question.

Sorry? OF COURSE your questions have been asked dozens of times over....and everybody here who isn't new to the hobby asked them too just the other day (well it seems just like yesterday when I was asking the same stuff )
...unless they were nearby and heard the answer when a different chap asked the question first.....

Ive been muzzleloading for about 10 years now, my poison has been a thompson center hawkin that i bought from on older gentlemen i know, that retired from hunting (at 87 years old, what a champ!). Ive always had the itch to get a flintlock and i finally did. Just came in the mail today, a traditions made Kentucky long rifle.

AH you rescued the rifle from the closet or the mantle....good for you....

My main question is, where can i get flints and what's best? I bought a 2 pack of traditions 2 sided flints. I don't like them. They where sticky for Some reason, and they are very inconsistent, both in when they spark, and how they spark. No one around here sells black powder supplies anymore God forbid flints. Where do you fellows get them, and what do you recommend?

Track of The Wolf and you may want to try #3, since they have some in stock. The Traditions locks tend to be rather small on that model rifle.

My 2nd question is priming powder. Right now im using FFg because that's all i have. It seems to have quite the delay to it. Ive heard some guys run FFFg and FFFFg for priming powder. Does it make enough difference to be worth it?

Also what about leather for the ****? I cut a strip off a old possible pouch for now, but where else could i find some good high quality leather?

And finally. How much power should i prime the pan with? Just a little, or fill her up? I realize more powder means more flash, which means more flinch for a new guy like me. But will it lead to faster ignition?

As the folks have said, 3Fg is fine for the main charge and the prime, on that .50 rifle.
Now as to leather, it must be thick enough to allow for a little compression but not so thick that you can't get the flint in, or get the jaw screw to properly engage.

There are two ways to do the leather. The fist when folded in half, forms a notch. This is pretty easy to do and IF you find yourself out in the woods and need a new leather the circular hole can be replaced with a V cut. The drawback is that if the flint gets loose and you lose it, you're likley to lose the leather too.

The second way is to fold the leather in half, mark it with the top of the lock jaw as a pattern, and cut it out. THEN while still folded, mark it and punch a hole, which will give you two holes. THEN to install the leather you run the jaw screw through the leather, and it won't fall out if you lose the flint.

In either case the back of the flint rests against the bare jaw screw side.

As to how much prime..., you will need to experiment on the range. Rifles are different from each other EVEN if they were made next to each other in the factory....

LD

 

[Crow-Feather]

Just to say that tests have proven the quickest ignition is when the priming powder is placed below the touch hole. You just have to make sure that there isn't a gap tween the pan and the barrel.

 

[ord sgt]

You can go to the National Muzzle Loading Rifle Association website (NMLRA) and look up Charter Clubs. Find a group close to where you live and call the contact person. They can help you find resources nearby, such as powder, flints and any other needs that you may have.
But you did find this group. We were all beginners at one time. We are glad to help out by answering questions. The sawn flints that you bought are the biggest problem with your ignition. Black English flints are very good and are widely used. Even Chert can be used to get the flintlock to fire.
As for powder, FFg can be used in the barrel and pan, as long as you have a reliable flint. Personally, I use FFFg in my flintlocks. Has been working very well for many tears.
Welcome to the dark side. Stop by and ask questions any time. Enjoy your new rifle.

 

[Flinty Scot]

Log Cabin, in Lodi, OH has good black flints. If you tell them what brand/model you are shooting, they can help you choose the best size.

As for priming, 2F will work, or you could grind some down to a finer powder for priming. Do a very little at a time, using wood or brass vessels (I've used a wooden mortar & pestle successfully. You'll loose the graphite coating, so it'll tend to draw moisture - no good for shooting in wet conditions.

I have the best luck, & the fastest firing, with just wee bit, 3-4 grains, at the far end of the pan, away from the touchhole. However, experiment. They each seem to respond best to a specific prime.

Make yourself a vent pick; use it every shot. I hammer solid copper household wire into the shape I want. It stiffens with work-hardening from the hammering. Best, it is still softer than the barrel/touchhole liner, so it won't wear-enlarge the hole.

Find a few small feathers, with shafts that fit snugly into the touchhole. It's you ultimate safety if you need to trim the edge of the flint with a load in the barrel. I leave one in while loading, sort of pre-picking, then pull it when I prime to fire.

Have fun. Welcome to the sharp side.

 

[GregLaRoche]

I used to get my flints from vendors at competition shoots. That way I could sort through and pick what I liked. Now with Covid, all the ones I went to have been canceled. Also, there’s more to getting good sparks than just buying a flint. There’s a lot written on the subject.

The more powder in the pan, the slower the ignition and more of a mess. I use a fine line across the bottom of the pan. Don’t bunch it up in front of the touch hole. I actually leave a little space and don’t touch the barrel. Try experimenting with how little you can use. I find that 4F in a small bottle with a spout is easiest to use when I want just a fine line.

 

[toot]

Sorry? OF COURSE your questions have been asked dozens of times over....and everybody here who isn't new to the hobby asked them too just the other day (well it seems just like yesterday when I was asking the same stuff )
...unless they were nearby and heard the answer when a different chap asked the question first.....



AH you rescued the rifle from the closet or the mantle....good for you....



Track of The Wolf and you may want to try #3, since they have some in stock. The Traditions locks tend to be rather small on that model rifle.



As the folks have said, 3Fg is fine for the main charge and the prime, on that .50 rifle.
Now as to leather, it must be thick enough to allow for a little compression but not so thick that you can't get the flint in, or get the jaw screw to properly engage.

There are two ways to do the leather. The fist when folded in half, forms a notch. This is pretty easy to do and IF you find yourself out in the woods and need a new leather the circular hole can be replaced with a V cut. The drawback is that if the flint gets loose and you lose it, you're likley to lose the leather too.

The second way is to fold the leather in half, mark it with the top of the lock jaw as a pattern, and cut it out. THEN while still folded, mark it and punch a hole, which will give you two holes. THEN to install the leather you run the jaw screw through the leather, and it won't fall out if you lose the flint.

In either case the back of the flint rests against the bare jaw screw side.

View attachment 58860

As to how much prime..., you will need to experiment on the range. Rifles are different from each other EVEN if they were made next to each other in the factory....

LD

I rely like it thanks for posting it.