New hobby/ Hawken build

[Cherrybow]

Decided to give this a try, so I gathered up supplies to make a couple 54 cal “Hawken” rifles.

 

[Cherrybow]

Inletting the barrel was done mostly with a 3/8” chisel and a small back saw for starting out my cuts straight

 

[Cherrybow]

i made an octagon shaped sanding block to clean up my ugly chiseling job

 

[Cherrybow]

Couldn’t stop today’s challenge without getting the ramrod hole drilled out. Here is a few pictures of how I did it:

 

[Carbon 6]

Nice, can't wait to see more.

 

[Cherrybow]

Overall satisfied with the outcome today. My sanding block, although 1/16” smaller than the barrel, widened the inlet a bit more than I wanted. Ramrod drilling jig worked well to keep a consistent depth but veered 1/8” away from the lock, which I THINK is OK.

 

[Cherrybow]

I am open to and welcome all critics. This is my first try at building.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
It looks like you have some nice projects and are doing well. FYI, there is nothing "Hawken" about them, which is fine. They are just half stocked percussion rifles. Here are some actual Hawken rifles.

dave

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Did you draw any plans? I've built >70 muzzleloading guns and I drew plans for almost all of them. The plans showing the barrel channel, ramrod groove and hole, lock, location of lock bolts and tang bolt, etc help insure no tears later. Don't be in a hurry to get all the hardware in place before shaping the stock because you end up inletting through a lot of extra wood. Do not inlet your trigger guard until the stock is almost finished ready for final sanding. That way you let the stock determine the fit of the guard and not the guard determining the shape of the stock. Also, do not be in a hurry to trim away wood very close to your final dimensions using power tools. They are fine for getting rid of bulk wood but use hand tools for the closer trimming so you can take advantage of nuances that enhance the gun. For example, if you carry the profile of your nose cap back to the lock panels, you will end up with a very slab sided looking gun. Better would be to have the stock widen slightly toward the lock so you can created a more round cross section. The nose caps you chose are difficult to work around and are ones usually used on mass produced guns. A better looking solution is shown below:

When inletting the hook breech (known as a standing or false breech), glue or solder it to the hook and barrel, then inlet it. That way your inlet will assure it stays tight up against the barrel. The rear of the standing breech needs to be inlet tight against the wood for support during recoil. The photos below show examples.

dave

 

[Cherrybow]

Thanks for your reply Dave. That is the kind of advise I am hoping for. ..No, I didn’t draw plans for these stocks. I purchased the stocks already cut to the shape you see with nose caps and but plates installed and the one I am working on first already had the guard inlet. Doing this to learn from. Most all the parts are CVA from mountain or hawken rifles. You do some beautiful work

 

[Cherrybow]

Inletting the trigger was a pretty good challenge. I’ll need to cut down the tang/trigger screw. I think the lock will fit just right. Waiting for my mainspring vise to get here from track of the wolf,(they are running behind because of all the orders coming in!) so I can take the lock apart for inletting it.

 

[Lippy984]

Hi,
Did you draw any plans? I've built >70 muzzleloading guns and I drew plans for almost all of them. The plans showing the barrel channel, ramrod groove and hole, lock, location of lock bolts and tang bolt, etc help insure no tears later. Don't be in a hurry to get all the hardware in place before shaping the stock because you end up inletting through a lot of extra wood. Do not inlet your trigger guard until the stock is almost finished ready for final sanding. That way you let the stock determine the fit of the guard and not the guard determining the shape of the stock. Also, do not be in a hurry to trim away wood very close to your final dimensions using power tools. They are fine for getting rid of bulk wood but use hand tools for the closer trimming so you can take advantage of nuances that enhance the gun. For example, if you carry the profile of your nose cap back to the lock panels, you will end up with a very slab sided looking gun. Better would be to have the stock widen slightly toward the lock so you can created a more round cross section. The nose caps you chose are difficult to work around and are ones usually used on mass produced guns. A better looking solution is shown below:

When inletting the hook breech (known as a standing or false breech), glue or solder it to the hook and barrel, then inlet it. That way your inlet will assure it stays tight up against the barrel. The rear of the standing breech needs to be inlet tight against the wood for support during recoil. The photos below show examples.

dave

Dave, do you do your own engraving? It looks incredible. I work on Harley Davidson’s for a living, so I do still see some older bikes with it done. But the artwork is before my time. I don’t even know who does that anymore

 

[dave_person]

Hi Lippy,
Yes, I do all my own engraving and metal casting and sculpting.

dave

 

[Lippy984]

Hi Lippy,
Yes, I do all my own engraving and metal casting and sculpting.

dave

Very talented, nice work

 

[Herb]

Dave_person, thanks. I built that top actual Hawken. The bottom one is Jim Bridger's. Your work is beautiful!

 

[Cherrybow]

got the lock inlet and some shaping this weekend. I did have some problems with the locks sear hitting the trigger so I removed some material off the trigger and bent the trigger plate just a little to be able to put the lock in the cocked position. It’s at least looking like a functional gun at this point.

 

[Pete G]

You need to remove a LOT more wood from the lock panels.

 

[Cherrybow]

Narrow down this area?

 

[Buckskinn]

Correct. Find some pics of original Hawkins. I think Dave posted some not long ago.

 

[Kansas Jake]

Does anyone sell copies of the Robidioux blueprints made from the Nebraska Historical Society museum? I have an old set and they are pretty extensive. Mine aren't for sale.