New to BP shooting with a gun that has ignition issue or me?

[longcruise]

NEW DAY

After i did an extensive cleaning and inspectionn i put 70 grs triple 7 2f and a lubed patch and round ball down the tube and still no ignition after using 2 #11 cci caps. I removed the inspection screw under the nipple and poured in powder there and BOOM DADDY i had ignition. Figured maybe i blew the cobwebs out and loaded again and pop, no ignition, remove screw and pour in powder and BOOM, wife said house shook, lol. So i have been digging in the archives on here and saw a couple of articles on here with some guns being finicky on 2f with T7. Any other input will be appreciated, would 3f be my next solution to try to cure this ignition problem,

T'were me, I'd start with the simplest solutions. In this case, you may not have cleaned the breech area as well as you thought. What is your cleaning procedure?

Try shooting a good dose of carburetor cleaner down the bore. This is in case there is residual caked and dried up oil or grease in there. The previous owner may have overdone it. Do it several times to be sure.

If that doesn't work then we can move on to other solutions.

 

[ord sgt]

As someone stated before, first thing BEFORE pouring powder into the barrel, always fire at least two percussion caps into an empty barrel. Do this outdoors. First cap fire in a safe direction. Second percussion cap, point the barrel downward
and watch for a reaction from loose leaves, grass, dirt, whatever.
This will ensure a clear flash channel from nipple to bore. Then load and fire.
This is a standard for all percussion rifles and pistol

 

[Steve Wagner]

Save yourself some caps too. Store after cleaning with the muzzle down as said above. Before going out to shoot or hunt, pull the n_pple, and use an air compressor blower to clear the flash channel. Or a can of compressed air from a computer store. You may need to run a dry patch down the bore 1st if using some kind of oil. I use breakfree clp, and if stored with the muzzle down, there is no problematic residue. I do blow out the drum just in case and then I just load and shoot.
As Howard mentioned above, flash holes in n_pples vary for best results, even in factory n_pples. My 2 Traditions came with .026 fish holes and ignite every single time. My 2 TCs aren't worth a darn without the .030 Howard described. Those can go up to .034 and no more. .034 on a Traditions will get you some hammer blowback. Not good. SW

 

[wiscoaster]

As someone stated before, first thing BEFORE pouring powder into the barrel, always fire at least two percussion caps into an empty barrel. Do this outdoors. First cap fire in a safe direction. Second percussion cap, point the barrel downward
and watch for a reaction from loose leaves, grass, dirt, whatever.
This will ensure a clear flash channel from nipple to bore. Then load and fire.
This is a standard for all percussion rifles and pistol

And for long guns, I would add swabbing the bore with a dry patch before even doing that. And noting how far down the ramrod goes. All the way to the breach? Measure to make sure.

 

[Daveboone]

New rifle, there is grease and oil in the nipple drum/breech. Swab, and a good routine is to always snap a couple primers before loading to clean the drum/nipple/breech. t7 definetly is harder to ignite, and is designed for inlines with shotgun style primers.
And make sure you get a properly sized ball puller...you will need one sooner or later. read up on how to use one before you need one.

 

[Bad Karma]

There's lots more smarter hunters on here than me, but i do bore out my ******* so that I can use fake powders that are available in Montana where I can't buy black. I was a mechanic of sorts for many years, did a lot of different things in my life and i have a lot of stuff to work with, so I took my wire bits and measured the size of the hole in the new ******* for my percussions and they measured .026. I couldn't get constant ignition so I started experimenting and discovered if I would bore them out to .030 that they would work all the time. It didn't bother shooting black as i also own some of that for my flintlock, but I guarded it almost religiously so I stick to 777 pretty much.******* probably don't last as long, and i hate that guy that keeps blacking out my nipples, but I don't load real hot and if I happen to get blow back on a hammer I know it's time to change. I don't shoot pounds either just a pound once in awhile.
Squint

I’m of the opinion that you can get away with a larger flash hole if you’re shooting ball and lighter target loads. When shooting heavier charges and bullets I typically replace the nipple when it exceeds .032.

NEW DAY

After i did an extensive cleaning and inspectionn i put 70 grs triple 7 2f and a lubed patch and round ball down the tube and still no ignition after using 2 #11 cci caps. I removed the inspection screw under the nipple and poured in powder there and BOOM DADDY i had ignition. Figured maybe i blew the cobwebs out and loaded again and pop, no ignition, remove screw and pour in powder and BOOM, wife said house shook, lol. So i have been digging in the archives on here and saw a couple of articles on here with some guns being finicky on 2f with T7. Any other input will be appreciated, would 3f be my next solution to try to cure this ignition problem,

Every time I pour the charge down bore I rap the side of the rifle with my hand near the breach before seating the projectile. This is done to encourage a few grains of powder to make their way under the nipple. I don’t often use substitute powders but when I have this has been very helpful in getting 100% ignition. Some people recommend rapping the lock side, others recommend the other side. I don’t think it makes much difference but I rap it on the lock side. Using Triple 7 I’ve always preferred the 3F version for the same reason. Best of luck with shaking the house!