New to Flintlocks, having a minor issue

[abstange]

I'm relatively new to flintlocks and don't really know anyone local to ask so I figured this was the spot. I finished my kit build a little before Thanksgiving and have had it out a couple of times to shoot. So far I am loving it, but after I get to about 10 shots, I can't seem to get it to fire. I've tried using a vent pick on the flash hole to clean it out a bit and had limited success. Does anyone have any advise on how to remedy this, or do I just have to do a full cleaning once this issue starts?

 

[stinkyfeet]

Is it a flash in the pan (powder ingnites in pan but does ignite main charge), or is it not igniting the pan charge, Since I dont know I will offer this advice make sure u keep a dry rag handy and whipe the pan out it builds up moisture especially in hot climates. If the pan flashes but no bang try opening up you vent hole to around 1/16 and try it you may have to go up to 5/64 as well. If the pan isn't igniting it could be you flint is shifting or needs to be knapped or possibly turned over. Best advice I can offer not knowing the whole story.

 

[54ball]

Like 2tall says we need more info. it could be anything from wet gooey fouling build up in the barrel, to a dirty flint, more detail please :hatsoff:

 

[Aran]

Stating the obvious here, but are you wiping between shots? Or at least every 2nd or 3rd shot? I find that an excessive build up of fouling slows down ignition and/or causes misfires. This might be your issue.
Aran

 

[abstange]

I am getting flash in the pan, so I don't think moisture there is a problem. (I live in Nebraska and it has been cold each time I've shot.) I usually have to reprime the pan to try to take another shot since there isn't any powder left. I may have to try to increase the size of the flash hole a little. Would maybe wiping it out with a pipe cleaner help?

Aran, what do you mean by wiping between shots? Are you talking running a dry patch down the barrel or doing a little more extensive wiping? The last time when I started having issues I was running a brush down the barrel with a few dry patches and cleaning some out. I also had a fouling scraper that I was using to scrape the breech plug. Maybe I started too late though since I waited for the problem to occur.

 

[Black Hand]

Please provide details such as rifle type, caliber, powder used and amount, patch type & thickness, lube used and ball size. These would be helpful in trying to decipher what may be happening.

 

[rafterob]

The type of breech you have is going to affect the answers you get. Wiping between shots should consist of 1 damp patch run down to the breech, allowed to set a few seconds and then removed. Flip it over and do it again. Follow it with a dry patch. Do not use a pumping motion. Don't use a fouling scraper or brush until it is time to clean the gun. Some folks wipe between shots, some only wipe when loading gets "sticky". There are a couple different techniques for picking the touch hole. One is to insert your pick into the hole before loading and then remove it just before you prime the pan. The other is to pick the hole after loading and before you prime.

 

[abstange]

No problem. It is a Lyman GPR in the .54 caliber. I am using .530" roundballs with .015" lubed patches with wonderlube. The powder I have been using is Goex FFFG at about 70 grains. I was trying to do 80 grains for the last few shots but never got one to fire. I'm not sure if this matters, but I am also using 3/4" square Tom Fuller hand knapped flints with buckskin wrap. I didn't upgrade any of the parts so it is factory normal. I do get good spark as it is set up and usually don't have much of a hang fire. For the first few shots at least.

 

[Black Hand]

Your touch-hole may be small. This appears to be the most common complaint I've seen discussed about these guns. Others who own these guns should be able to give more detailed information.

 

[abstange]

I've read the same concern on the gun builders side. I just figured I would try it out as is. I guess I never really realized how much of a difference it could make.

 

[tecum-tha]

Does it go off at the second try every time or not? If not, it is likely that you have dirt in the smaller diameter powder chamber and when you load the powder, it bridges around the vent hole.
Even with 3F that can happening.
It is recommended that you wipe between shots or at least every few shots to prevent the accumulation of fouling to harden with each subsequent shot. Will make your gun more consistent,too. Dutch Schoultz explains that nicely in his paperwork "Black Powder Accuracy".

 

[abstange]

The last time I went out I refilled the pan four times before I gave up. I had good pan flash each time as my dad confirmed. I had suspected that there was some fouling covering up the flash hole, I'm just guessing it was to the point where I could not clean it without water.

 

[Swede50]

I have a TC in 50 cal I had to change the screw in vent hole to get better ignition.
I also clean between shots, and after about 10 shots I put my finger over the
vent hole pour about an ounce of alcohol down the barrel let it soak about a
minute let some run out the vent hole and the other out the barrel then run a dry patch load prime and fire.
This works well for me might take a bit longer but if I do my part correctly I have no miss fires.
I also have Dutch Schultz "Black Powder Accuracy".

 

[stinkyfeet]

AHHHH Lyman GPR flinter take out the stock vent liner and buy a RMC liner that will help 300%

 

[Bbtech]

I have a Lyman in .50 caliber. One thing that seemed to help me with consistant firing was to insert a vent pick before I loaded the main charge in the rifle. Remove it before you prime the pan. This seems to create a path for the powder in the pan to ignite the powder in the barrel. I also live in Nebraska and cold is part of shooting at this time of year but it doesn't seem to affect the rifle much.

 

[AZbpBurner]

I have the lefthanded and .50 cal flint GPR. Had similar problems as yours with ignition after firing a few rounds.

Fefore you get all spendy and buy some glitzy alphabet-named touch hole liner, simply remove your factory liner, and drill it out to .067" with a #51 drillbit. 1/16" should work if you don't have a number set.

Next, chamfer or cone the inside of the liner, and then do the same with the outside. Mine looks like the screwdriver slot is just a wide spot in the center over the hole, but now ignition is 100%.

Did the same with my new Deerstalker .54 cal liner before taking it out to the range the first time and had 100% ignition, until I discovered that the last flints I got were too small - the Tom Fuller # ENG5 flints are 5/8" x 3/4". They work fine for about a dozen rounds, but wear quickly. My only eventual misfires were due to the worn flint. the Fuller #ENG6 3/4" square are sturdier and last an entire day at the range.

 

[abstange]

I was mostly referring to the cold preventing any buildup of humidity. I will have to try to vent pick trick though. Actually I all of the ideas are very good. Now to find the combination of ideas that works best for me. I think I will start by trying to increase the size of my vent hole along with a regular cleaning.

 

[Billnpatti]

I think that all of the various reasons for a misfire have been well covered for you by some very knowledgeable folks. One of the forum members, Larry Pletcher (Pletch) has done some very interesting studies using high speed photography to determine the best place in your pan to put your pan charge. Go to his postings or send him a PM and read and see his findings on the subject of where to place your pan charge for best results. It may be a great help to you in eliminating your misfires. :thumbsup:

 

[don hepler]

Let me go through a little routine, that I use. Before I go to the range, or to hunt, I clean the barrel, with alcohol wipe. I alcohol wipe the frizzen and flint and pan. I check the flint, for sharpness, etc. At the range or in the field, I pour the powder down the barrel and seat the patched ball. I put the pick in the touch hole and "feel" the powder. I place the ffffg powder in the pan and poke a couple grains in the touch hole then pull the remaining powder down just under the touch hole, and spread it out. I am carefull when swabbing, not to push fouled powder down past the touch hole. After I fire, I wipe the flint, frizzen, and pan, with a clean rag. I check the condition of the flint. And the whole process, starts all over. I want the rifle to fire without hesitation, every time. That's all that I'm satisfied with. Flintlocks, will not work for the lazy.

 

[bpd303]

I was running a brush down the barrel with a few dry patches and cleaning some out. I also had a fouling scraper that I was using to scrape the breech plug. Maybe I started too late though since I waited for the problem to occur.

I think this is your major problem. By using a brush and dry patches you are filling the chamber with dry fouling and preventing the fresh powder from getting to the flash hole. Like some have said use a damp patch, down the barrel once then turn it over and in and out once. That should solve the issue. Save the brush & scraper for when you do a thorough cleaning and be careful with the brush because they are famous for getting stuck at the breech.