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steelerfan

36 Cal.
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I just purchased a used CVA Hawken percussion with 50 & 54 cal. barrels.It came with nothing & I have no muzzleloading supplies or ammo.
What do I need to get started, I realize this could be a long list so thank you in advance for your help
 
Bullets .490 or .495 round balls (or .50 conicals if you want to go that route) and some .530 or .535 round balls or conicals.
Patches
Patch knife (scissors work better, just saying”¦)
Power 3F and 2F (you don’t know which your gun prefers yet)
Percussion Caps
Rifle cleaning kit and range rod (Traditions makes a nice kit for this purpose)
Nipple Wrench
Powder measure
Powder horn
Capper (optional)
Nipple pick
Targets
Possibles bag
 
Yep, it will. And being you are in BucksCo., Dixons Muzzy Shop is the place to get it. North to I-78, west to Rt. 737 Kutztown exit. Go north until you drop into a valley. Dixons is on the right!

A tip... leave the plastic at home, or chances are you might come home with a much purtier rifle than a CVA Hawken! :rotf:
 
Cynthialee said:
Oh and pardon my manners!

Welcome to the group and good shooting!

Thank you & thanks very much for taking time to post that list.
This will be quite a change from shooting my .308 & my AR15
 
Cynthialee said:
I have that list in a file on my desktop. It is a question asked often enough around here I decided to make a fast response file a number of months ago.
:grin:
Yes, I imagine that would be an often asked question, good thinking !
 
No one mentioned a short starter. You can get by without one but it makes seating the ball a lot easier.
On the patched round ball or conical issue. The round ball is surrounded by the patch so you won't get any lead fouling in the bore- that helps with the clean up. After a shot or two the bore will have some fouling in it. Trying to ram down a conical will be hard unless you take time to swab out the bore. You usually don't have to do that with the patched round ball, so....to start with I would shoot patched round balls.
The only thing you might want to think about is a co2 dispenser. If you ever load a ball but forget the powder- the time honored way is to pull the ball. There is a screw tip tool and the idea is to screw the tip into the lead ball and then pull it out. Actually, it is easier said than done- sometimes the ball turns and you have trouble screwing in the tip. On a lead conical you might screw in the tip but then it pulls out and you have buggered up the conical and can't screw the thing in any more. So...a co2 dispenser is a real good thing to have.
 
crockett said:
No one mentioned a short starter. You can get by without one but it makes seating the ball a lot easier.
On the patched round ball or conical issue. The round ball is surrounded by the patch so you won't get any lead fouling in the bore- that helps with the clean up. After a shot or two the bore will have some fouling in it. Trying to ram down a conical will be hard unless you take time to swab out the bore. You usually don't have to do that with the patched round ball, so....to start with I would shoot patched round balls.
The only thing you might want to think about is a co2 dispenser. If you ever load a ball but forget the powder- the time honored way is to pull the ball. There is a screw tip tool and the idea is to screw the tip into the lead ball and then pull it out. Actually, it is easier said than done- sometimes the ball turns and you have trouble screwing in the tip. On a lead conical you might screw in the tip but then it pulls out and you have buggered up the conical and can't screw the thing in any more. So...a co2 dispenser is a real good thing to have.

Thanks for the tips, a short starter & co2 will be added to the shopping list. Yes, ball & patch is what I will be using, I would guess it's also less money, those sabots look a bit pricy
 
Like someone said, Dixon's is a candy shop for muzzle loading. I could spend the whole day in that place, good thing I'm 350 miles away. Last trip to Dixon's, cost me $1400. or more.

Welcome, to a new addiction.
 
Ok, patch lube is on the list, & a trip to Dixon's as well since it's been mentioned so many times it must be a great place to go.
The barrel on my gun is unfinished plain steel, it has a very small amount of surface rust, one even has someone's thumb print.
Should I do something with this barrel such as blue it or just keep it as is & remove the surface rust ?
 
Yes, when going to Dixon's, wear a large brimmed hat, and do not look up. If you look up, your wallet will jump completely out of your pocket.
 
hadden west said:
Yes, when going to Dixon's, wear a large brimmed hat, and do not look up. If you look up, your wallet will jump completely out of your pocket.

I keep hearing "don't look up". What's up there ?
 
The back half of the store has built rifles from quite a few local, and a few not local builders, hanging from tethers, and for sale.

A friend bought one @ Feb.-Mar. that was the winner or runner-up of one of the annual Gunmakers Fair's of the past.

They range in many styles, priced from less than $1,000.00 to a few times that!
 
A brass key (wedge) punch and small mallet (leather, plastic, wood, brass) will be needed.

A lot of cleaning patches.

For patch lube you can use about any type of cooking oil. I've been using grape seed oil since the olive oil is off limits as it's expensive. It's likely not the best, but it works...for now.
 
You can tell us "what's left up there", when you get back home.

We're just kidding, but it is a muzzle loader, Candy Store. Clothing, books, barrels, wood, hardware, antiques, the store will take you back in time, and you'll get your purchases in a brown paper bag and ring up at on an antique cash register. Wecome to the 1950's.
 

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