S.Kenton
58 Cal.
That came that way from the factory. The model is a Traditions Pennsylvania rifle. I had a percussion back in 2008-9. Those are accurate rifles.
New Toy! My First Flintlock!
- Thread starter Bumpy Rhodes
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We can start off with spit. That's about as homemade as we can get. One can mix 50% dishwashing liquid soap with 50% water. Almost any other liquid soap and water can be used to lubricate a patch. The proportions can vary to suit your mood. All will work. If you have olive oil and can sneak some of that from the kitchen supply, that works too. If you are a machinist and have water soluble oil that is used for cutting fluid, one part of the Water Soluble Oil and 4 to 10 parts of water work.
Sure, you can use Crisco. If you want to use a grease for the lubricant and have left over Crisco from making Christmas cookies, then use that to grease up the patches. Or lard, Stay away from the salted versions such as butter flavored Crisco.
You can go to the Local Gun Store and buy something that is marketed as the best patch lube ever invented, such as Mr. Flintlock or Wonderlube or any other concoction off the shelf.
I haven't run across much of anything that is fairly thin with a bit of slickness that won't suffice as a patch lube. The important factor is that it keeps the fouling soft between shots, In the case of the water based lubricants, the black powder fouling is softened and pulled into the patch, keeping the level of fouling in the barrel consistent from shot to shot.
Bumpy Rhodes
36 Cl.
Sounds like I will be able to so some shootin' tomorrow!!!
I have Crisco for the revolver and olive oil dish soap also!!! Thanks!!!
Bumpy Rhodes
36 Cl.
Local old guy, haven't seen him in many years, hope is is ok, would trim his patch when the ball was flush, or just below flush with the muzzle (I can't remember which). I read a lot about patches but haven't seen people mention trimming. Is there some advantage to it?
Bumpy Rhodes
36 Cl.
I refit the side plate, the slotted touchhole screw was boogered and the raised metal on both sides of the slot was preventing the pan from sitting flush. Also, the side of the pan that bears against the barrel was out-of-flat, I ground it a bit to make it flat. I scraped out some of the clearcoat from the recess in the wood, and a little wood also to get the sideplate to fit tighter at the top. Other than the eroded edge of the pan, I think it looks better. I'll give it a try tomorrow.
Again, thanks for all your help!
Again, thanks for all your help!
Bumpy Rhodes
36 Cl.
As far as the frizzen, I'm going to try it as is. If I decide to keep the gun, first thing I will try is grinding the striker surface with maybe 60 paper creating a horizontal texture. Hell, what do I have to lose?
Bumpy Rhodes
36 Cl.
Absolutely understood! Which is exactly why I bought used! If I sell, I don't think I will lose much. If I really get hooked, then I'll spend the $. If I don't, it didn't cost me much.
And I disagree, they are absolutely "toys". I had a plastic M1 Garand that launched plastic grenades, the Tommy Gun that shot perforated cap rolls, pull the bolt back had you had 12rds full auto! (Caps would often misfire on full auto.
) A hundred other plastic toys before getting steel rimfire and centerfire toys, then back to plastic toys in centerfire and rimfire! Don't get me started on cars! 
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Bumpy Rhodes
36 Cl.
I have some JB bore paste I bought over 10y ago and never used it, I think I'll use it tomorrow before I shoot. As a former HP shooter I cringe at the thought of using an abrasive but I have to keep reminding myself that this is not a $650 barrel on a $2000 AR trying to hit a 12" 10-ring 20 times in a row at 600y! Once I got past that, yes, a little abrasive is probably a good idea!
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was going to recommend you square up that bolster and flatten the vent liner, but you are well on your way to being a full fledged charcoal head!
Truth be told I have never even held a Traditions product, but in the early 70's did have a cva.
I started my addiction with an original flintlock, and just never had any use for a Traditions.
all that blather said, I must admit that is a nice looking rifle.
Everything you have pictured shows that it was used and used alot but not abused. For the Frizzen to get worn like that, it was fired a lot. the erosion of the pan and bolster shows the same.
If the gun was used that much it can only be because it worked or the previous owner would have either sold it sooner with less wear, or wrapped it around the closest tree.
I would use some scotch brite of whatever color you have wrapped around a smaller bore brush, (the only use i have for a brush ) and scrub it with that JB's you have.
again, nice looking rifle and in parting, DO NOT BREATHE ANY BP SMOKE! addiction is instant and so far 70+ years long
Truth be told I have never even held a Traditions product, but in the early 70's did have a cva.
I started my addiction with an original flintlock, and just never had any use for a Traditions.
all that blather said, I must admit that is a nice looking rifle.
Everything you have pictured shows that it was used and used alot but not abused. For the Frizzen to get worn like that, it was fired a lot. the erosion of the pan and bolster shows the same.
If the gun was used that much it can only be because it worked or the previous owner would have either sold it sooner with less wear, or wrapped it around the closest tree.
I would use some scotch brite of whatever color you have wrapped around a smaller bore brush, (the only use i have for a brush ) and scrub it with that JB's you have.
again, nice looking rifle and in parting, DO NOT BREATHE ANY BP SMOKE! addiction is instant and so far 70+ years long
Banjoman
Hillbilly
Looking good.
Yes, there is an advantage to cutting the patch at the muzzle as the patch is exactly centered around the ball. In truth, the precut patches can produce acceptable accuracy on target if care is taken to center the ball on the patch.
I feel that there is enough advantage that I cut my patches at the muzzle. The mention here on the Forum will be in reference to cutting at the muzzle.
I have to admit that I am one of those that cringe when someone calls a traditional muzzleloading rifle a toy. Sure, it brings pleasure and is a lot of fun to shoot. There is substantial pleasure in actually experiencing the art of shooting a flint lock rifle. Enjoy the experience, but remember that this is a firearm, and I doubt that you considered your HP rifles that you enjoyed shooting in competition a toy. Your plastic Garand and the cap firing Tommy Gun were toys.
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I find that the mig is too hard to control for extremely fine welding. I use all four methods and for the lock I would tig it less clean up after wards but you do what makes your socks roll up and down and have fun shooting that gun
Bumpy Rhodes
36 Cl.
Thanks, My you may be correct, I don't think I considered my competition rifles or handguns as toys, my carry gun either, they were/are all for serious business! On the other hand, I do consider my recreational guns as toys, they have no practical purpose than to bring great pleasure.
So, do you cut oversize patches, lube them, then cut them at the muzzle? Do you press the ball flush or do you press the ball in 1/8" with the ball starter then trim?
Bumpy Rhodes
36 Cl.
Yes, small welds with MIG are very difficult, but they are free for me!
I'll see how much I like it then decide whether it is worth the investment, thanks!
@Bumpy Rhodes, I use a strip of approximately 1 1/2" to 2" wide #40 cotton drill cloth (which is getting hard to find). I have a wide mouthed bottle of a mix of 1 part water soluble oil to 7 parts of oil to dampen a ball sized section of the strip. I place the damp spot over the muzzle and place the ball in the center of the damp material and push the ball so the sprue is flush with the muzzle before cutting the patch at the muzzle.
While my muzzle loading forearms are used for recreational purposes, when I consider what they are capable of doing, I can't consider them as toys and require proper safe handling, which I sure you are doing with your recreational firearms.
While my muzzle loading forearms are used for recreational purposes, when I consider what they are capable of doing, I can't consider them as toys and require proper safe handling, which I sure you are doing with your recreational firearms.
Mike in FL
50 Cal.
Larry, I have read that the very best flintlock gun is slower than a percussion gun when measuring time elapsed from the start of the hammer fall and the ball exiting the barrel. With very good locks the difference may not be perceptible by the shooter but it is there.
I suggest to the OP that he should try dry firing with the wooden flint by settling the sights (offhand of course) on a small spot somewhere ahead and see if the sight picture is the same as it was when he "fired " Once he masters that, plug the flash hole, prime the lock, and try the same thing. If the flash and smoke from the pan does not disturb his aim, he is ready..
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Thanks, that is good advice for a new flint shooter. To me the word delay, is longer than micro secsonds mesured with electronics.
Larry
PS I have seen many a delay with a hanger!
Pete G
76 Cal.
Spit…
Bumpy Rhodes
36 Cl.
Today was the big day! Wrapped some fine scotchbrite around a bronze brush and gave the bore two swipes and a twist at the bottom, all rust is gone. I set up the flint best I could based on watching some vids. Loaded it up with 50gr Schuetzen FFFg, and it went bang! No hits on the 25y target.
I put another bull high on the target and tried again, hit 6.5” low at 25y. Next shot 55gr, about same. Then 60gr, 5” low. Backed up to 50y, 60gr was 14” low. I don’t think a hotter charge will bring this up to the line of sight, so maybe I need a taller rear sight? It would need to be about .200” taller. Or maybe I need to chrono it? I would have done more testing but it was getting dark (and frekin' cold!!!).As always, your thought are greatly appreciated!
Photo of 25y target:
50gr lower left.
55gr, slightly higher
60gr, another 1” higher
I put another bull high on the target and tried again, hit 6.5” low at 25y. Next shot 55gr, about same. Then 60gr, 5” low. Backed up to 50y, 60gr was 14” low. I don’t think a hotter charge will bring this up to the line of sight, so maybe I need a taller rear sight? It would need to be about .200” taller. Or maybe I need to chrono it? I would have done more testing but it was getting dark (and frekin' cold!!!).As always, your thought are greatly appreciated!
Photo of 25y target:
50gr lower left.
55gr, slightly higher
60gr, another 1” higher
Banjoman
Hillbilly
You can either raise the rear sight or lower the front sight.
F.O.R.S. - Front Opposite Rear Same
F.O.R.S. - Front Opposite Rear Same
