New Toy! My First Flintlock!

[Bumpy Rhodes]

Larry, I have read that the very best flintlock gun is slower than a percussion gun when measuring time elapsed from the start of the hammer fall and the ball exiting the barrel. With very good locks the difference may not be perceptible by the shooter but it is there.
I suggest to the OP that he should try dry firing with the wooden flint by settling the sights (offhand of course) on a small spot somewhere ahead and see if the sight picture is the same as it was when he "fired " Once he masters that, plug the flash hole, prime the lock, and try the same thing. If the flash and smoke from the pan does not disturb his aim, he is ready..

I thought I would be ok, in HP, we are trying to hit a 7" 10-ring at 200y offhand. If you don't follow through, you can easily make what would have been a 10 into an 8. Then today... First time with a flintlock, every time my instinct was "hangfire"! I'll get used to it, but I think my 25y group is not terrible, especially considering the sun was hitting the trees.

Just need to figure out how to raise the group up. Maybe the ball/patch fit is not tight enough? I'll put a chrono on it next time. I could push the ball in with the ball starter by tapping it with my palm, I didn't need a mallet. I used olive oil.

 

[Bumpy Rhodes]

You can either raise the rear sight or lower the front sight.

F.O.R.S. - Front Opposite Rear Same

True, but I'm not going to take .200 off a .325" front sight. I hate nubs! Any suggestions where to get a taller rear sight?

 

[Banjoman]

Hmmmm,,,there is that.

 

[bajabuc]

you can 'resole' that lock. Some years ago...like 50...there was someone selling 'soles' cut from old reactor walls...sparks like crazy!

 

[Coinneach]

Larry, I have read that the very best flintlock gun is slower than a percussion gun when measuring time elapsed from the start of the hammer fall and the ball exiting the barrel. With very good locks the difference may not be perceptible by the shooter but it is there.
I suggest to the OP that he should try dry firing with the wooden flint by settling the sights (offhand of course) on a small spot somewhere ahead and see if the sight picture is the same as it was when he "fired " Once he masters that, plug the flash hole, prime the lock, and try the same thing. If the flash and smoke from the pan does not disturb his aim, he is ready..

Good advice sir, even though I started out with FL's decades ago I still dry fire practice with wooden "flints"; for me its one of those simple joy things when I'm not actually shooting.

 

[Coinneach]

True, but I'm not going to take .200 off a .325" front sight. I hate nubs! Any suggestions where to get a taller rear sight?

Track of the Wolf (TOW) have a goodly range of both front and rear ML sights, measure the Dove tails cut into your barrel (top of flat and bottom of wedge cut) and /or the Sight base dovetail wedge you want to replace. You should get something close enough (if not same) that can be carefully filed and sanded down for a tight fit; as always Go Slow with the work.

 

[Bumpy Rhodes]

Track of the Wolf (TOW) have a goodly range of both front and rear ML sights, measure the Dove tails cut into your barrel (top of flat and bottom of wedge cut) and /or the Sight base dovetail wedge you want to replace. You should get something close enough (if not same) that can be carefully filed and sanded down for a tight fit; as always Go Slow with the work.

Thanks! I have fit dovetail sights before, one file swipe too many and it drops right through and out the other side!

 

[bpd303]

Welcome from the Ozark mountains.

A while back you asked about home made lube & cleaner. Here are two of the best by member here Stumpy I believe (Stumpkiller is his logon). I have used it for a very long time and have not found anything on the market to beat it. I like the moose Juice for it's ease of making. I use those little spritz bottles that glasses cleaner comes in to lube the patches just prior to loading


Stumpy's Moose Juice

A general purpose black powder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using.

Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated if available) 16oz.

I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry laid flat on wax paper in between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.


Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping(10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.

Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

 

[Coinneach]

Thanks! I have fit dovetail sights before, one file swipe too many and it drops right through and out the other side!

I've endured the same

 

[Bumpy Rhodes]

Welcome from the Ozark mountains.

A while back you asked about home made lube & cleaner. Here are two of the best by member here Stumpy I believe (Stumpkiller is his logon). I have used it for a very long time and have not found anything on the market to beat it. I like the moose Juice for it's ease of making. I use those little spritz bottles that glasses cleaner comes in to lube the patches just prior to loading


Stumpy's Moose Juice

A general purpose black powder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using.

Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated if available) 16oz.

I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry laid flat on wax paper in between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.


Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping(10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.

Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Thanks! Right now that is way to complex for a novice like me! Give me some time to get really hooked and I'll give it a try!

 

[Bumpy Rhodes]

RE: Shooting low:

I measured the sights and the rear is .050" lower than the front (why would that be???) which mathematically accounts for about half of what I am seeing. It's 20's today but I'll get out and chrono a couple to see if I have a velocity prob.