New Uberti Navy

[Gene L]

Got it today, and I have to say I think the quality has gone down since my other, older Navy. For the most immemdiate thing is one screw on each side is proud of the frame. Not that way on my older pistol. It's pretty stiff, but then it's new. I'll shoot both tomorrow just to see how it performs.

For another thing, the frame isn't brass; it's black and I suppose it aluminum.

 

[Zonie]

Could the screws that are standing proud possibly the two screws some of the Colt pistols have that are used with the removable shoulder stock?

If so, these screws heads do stand proud so they can interlock with the metal part of the shoulder stock.

 

[Gene L]

Could be, I don't know. I hadn't thought of that. They're both opposite of each other which could be suggestive. It is tighter than my other Navy...I had to lever the barrel loose instead or merely pulling it off. We'll see tomorrow.

Edit: looked at installation instructions and I believe that's exactly what it is, although I would prefer it not be that way.

 

[hawkeye2]

If you have the 1861 Uberti Navy the 2 screws are for the shoulder stock as Zonie says. The '51 Navy doesn't have screws for the shoulder stock. If the frame is black it is steel, not aluminum. Try a magnet. The only other material would be brass (backstrap/trigger guard only).

 

[Gene L]

My other 61 Navy doesn't have these screws. It appears they don't go too deep. I'm new to CP revolvers, and I appreciate the information.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

That's a shame.

My new 1858 Uberti is great. Smooth with a firm lockup and amazing fit n' finish. Shoots like a tick. BUT two seized cones, sending it back to Uberti to have them take them out.

 

[Gene L]

Forcing cone?

 

[FishDFly]

BUT two seized cones, sending it back to Uberti to have them take them out.


Huh??

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Two of the cones (nipples) refused to come out even after soaking in penetrant for two days. They tore up my nipple wrenches. Uberti has been real nice about it I emailed them and they sent me a pre-paid UPS label the next day. I rang them to see if I needed to send the whole gun or just the cylinder. A nice man answered right away and said send the whole gun just in case, said they would fix my new Uberti right up and the turn around time was 2 weeks or less. Very impressed with their CS so far let's see if they do a good job will report back. Just sent gun in this afternoon.

 

[smoothshooter]

" Cone " is another name for " nipple ".
Nipple is the more common term nowadays.

 

[smoothshooter]

Don't know if that model has buttstock mounting screws.

My Uberti 1860 Army had them, and the one on the right-hand side kept rubbing my hand when gripping the gun, so I took both of them out and left them out.

 

[Gene L]

I got a smaller nipple wrench and loosened up the nipples on both guns today. They were pretty easy, but I couldn't get my rifle wrench around them...too big.

 

[Gene L]

Shot one today, and was pleasantly surprised at how well it shot. It was high, but grouped well after some initial problems in loading, since I have never done it before. With 20 gr. fff, the recoil was pleasantly mild and all in all, the gun shot more accurately than my .32 Walther. It's a winner.

The weather was 90 degrees and the sun bearing down.

 

[William P Sepessy]

The 61 Navies that have those two shoulder stock screws are referred to as Military models. If those screws are not there, they are the Civilian model. It seems Uberti has turned out the Military models lately as I haven't seen any 1861 Civilian models in a while. Also the Military models have been coming with a steel backstrap and triggerguard.
You will also notice on the Military models the lower left and right recoil shield has been cut for clearance for the shoulder stock mounting hardware. The Civilian models don't have these additional cuts.

 

[Redstick Lee]

those screw-holes also make excellent lube ports in the field
amazing what 1 drop per side of sewing machine oil will do after several cylinders of shooting

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

I wouldn't use SMO for black powder since it's petro based. Instead I'd use either sperm or its modern replacement, jojoba.

 

[Zonie]

I think it is illegal to buy sperm oil today even if you could find it.

Jojoba oil is supposed to be about the same as sperm oil so it should be pretty good.

That said, I've never had a lick of a problem by using petroleum based oils on the locks and other mechanical workings on my cap & ball revolvers.

They work fine as long as they aren't used inside the barrel or in the cylinder chambers.

Even in those places, if any "wet" oil is wiped out before loading or firing the gun, they won't cause any problems at all.

 

[Gee Dog]

Also, keep petroleum distillates away from the arbor/cylinder pin. I use a little Lubriplate 630 AA white lithium grease on those areas and it works great.

Does anyone sell replacement screws for the protruding shoulder stock mounts that would be flush with the frame?

 

[Mr. Troll]

If it moves under high pressure, I use lubriplate white lithium grease...on everything..especially my "unmentionable" firearms...I have 100 year old unmentionable with thousands or rounds through it and no wear on anything

 

[Marc Adamchek]

Mr Troll - Just don't get caught wearing your lady's unmentionables while you're shooting up the town with one of your powerhouse unmentionables...”¦...just sayin'...”¦..it was your "no wear on anything" that set off the bells and alarms in my head...”¦”¦...Hate to lose you to the gendarmes. Your wealth of BP knowledge and contributions to the board here are too important to be yanked away from us...”¦”¦...