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Newb question about powder

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Zerosprk, if you find you are having trouble seeing sights, try a peep sight. I have vision issues and they are the bee's knees.
I've had in the back of my mind that a peep might be necessary. I haven't shot either rifle yet. So I'm going to play with both foe for a bit before I do any modification. That said, is there a peep sight you would care to recommend?
 
@zerosprk,

For the TVM, it would be the Johnson Peep Sight. They come in Brass, Iron and German Silver.

Product Listing (muzzleloaderbuilderssupply.com)

For the Hawken, since it is a modern appearing replica, then the Lyman sight is a good choice.

Peep Rear Sight, adjustable, to fit Thompson Center, Lyman Deerstalker, Lyman Trade Rifle, and similar Hawken rifles - Track of the Wolf

Or, you can make a sort of diopter sight for a pair of safety glasses or your prescription glasses by taking a short strip of black electrical tape and punching an 1/8" hole in the tape with a leather punch. The tape can be placed on your glasses to effectively make a peep sight to bring the sights and target into focus. This works best on a bright day. The hole can be enlarged or reduced to fit your needs and can be easily removed from your glasses.

Here is a Lyman product to do the same thing.

Amazon.com : Lyman Products EyePal Master Pack : Sports & Outdoors
 
I use 3F in my 45 and 54 and 60 caliber guns. It burns cleaner and I can shoot more shots before having to swab the barrel. I shoot 2F in my 72 caliber Bess.
 
Hi everyone,
I'm brand new to this site and equally brand new to traditional muzzleloading and muzzleloaders. I have shot/hunted since I was a kid - so a long time. I have hunted with an inline muzzleloader once and that was about 20 years ago. I'm about to be the proud new owner of a fast-twist (1 in 24") .50 Hawken and a slow twist (1 in 60ish") TVM flintlock. What powder granulation would you all suggest for these two rifles? I expect to shoot conicals in the Hawken and PBRs in the flintlock. I have been trying to educate myself on this stuff. In that pursuit I have come across several instances of contridactory information. I've found that 2F is recommended for .50 and up, 3F works well in both and 2F and 3F are interchangable so it really doesn't matter. As a longtime reloader in the smokeless powder world, the idea of "the powder you use really doesn't matter" causes my brow to forrow just a bit. I like to keep things as simple as possible so if I could shoot the same powder out of both guns, thats better IMHO. That said and given my intended use, can you all give me your thoughts on what you would start with if you were me. This is a great site and I enjoy reading about what folks use and why.

I've been a charcoal burner over 60+ years. Was pres & cto of a company that sought to commercialize a "different" black powder. I was a competitive shooter since 1975 with shooting buddies of national rank & records. I've shot & won using all grades from 5fg (standard granulation ground finer for use in the pan) to 4fA (ammoniated blasting powder for cannon). In bores from 17 cal (steel BBs) to 8.5 inch (bowling ball mortar). I've even shot 4fg in my 40mm rifled cannon, just 'cause it's all I had.

There are good reasons champions use 2fg or something close to that in "normal" sporting guns. It is the most widely used and best developed granulation. Used to be there was wide variation between brands and granulations. I guess manufacturers learned their customers are concerned about this and know they have a choice.

I would not use anything finer than 2fg in my original shotguns (16ga to 8ga).
I always pack firmly and consistently when loading for uniform ignition and clean burning.
I find great success with fine priming powder in the pan and only enough to "dust" its surfaces for fastest possible ignition. Gobs of heavier priming will ignite and eventually & inconsistently ignite the main charge in a flintlock. Way too slow & inconsistent, though!
Percussion revolvers demand 3fg for best target work.

So many things to consider!

Best....Jim
 
I've been a charcoal burner over 60+ years. Was pres & cto of a company that sought to commercialize a "different" black powder. I was a competitive shooter since 1975 with shooting buddies of national rank & records. I've shot & won using all grades from 5fg (standard granulation ground finer for use in the pan) to 4fA (ammoniated blasting powder for cannon). In bores from 17 cal (steel BBs) to 8.5 inch (bowling ball mortar). I've even shot 4fg in my 40mm rifled cannon, just 'cause it's all I had.

There are good reasons champions use 2fg or something close to that in "normal" sporting guns. It is the most widely used and best developed granulation. Used to be there was wide variation between brands and granulations. I guess manufacturers learned their customers are concerned about this and know they have a choice.

I would not use anything finer than 2fg in my original shotguns (16ga to 8ga).
I always pack firmly and consistently when loading for uniform ignition and clean burning.
I find great success with fine priming powder in the pan and only enough to "dust" its surfaces for fastest possible ignition. Gobs of heavier priming will ignite and eventually & inconsistently ignite the main charge in a flintlock. Way too slow & inconsistent, though!
Percussion revolvers demand 3fg for best target work.

So many things to consider!

Best....Jim
A cannon, now there's something I don't have! I might have to have a quick talk with Santa 🎅!!!
In all seriousness, thank you for the info. Im going to try both 2f and 3f and see what shoots best. I'll also get 1# of 4f for the pan of the fainter. Thanks for the description of how much to use because I had no clue...
 
Dang. Now that I know what I want, where is powder available these days? In Michigan. I've checked numerous places, no luck. Better places online?
Edit: Just inherited two .54 cal TC Hawken kits that I am putting together.
 
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Hi everyone,
I'm brand new to this site and equally brand new to traditional muzzleloading and muzzleloaders. I have shot/hunted since I was a kid - so a long time. I have hunted with an inline muzzleloader once and that was about 20 years ago. I'm about to be the proud new owner of a fast-twist (1 in 24") .50 Hawken and a slow twist (1 in 60ish") TVM flintlock. What powder granulation would you all suggest for these two rifles? I expect to shoot conicals in the Hawken and PBRs in the flintlock. I have been trying to educate myself on this stuff. In that pursuit I have come across several instances of contridactory information. I've found that 2F is recommended for .50 and up, 3F works well in both and 2F and 3F are interchangable so it really doesn't matter. As a longtime reloader in the smokeless powder world, the idea of "the powder you use really doesn't matter" causes my brow to forrow just a bit. I like to keep things as simple as possible so if I could shoot the same powder out of both guns, thats better IMHO. That said and given my intended use, can you all give me your thoughts on what you would start with if you were me. This is a great site and I enjoy reading about what folks use and why.
I have used them all over time. I use 3f 90% of the time, mostly in guns .54 cal and bigger. It works great for priming too. One horn of 3f for loads and prime, it shoots well in my brown bess also. But some guns shoot differently with different grains and charges. Experiment to find the best combo.
 
I have used them all over time. I use 3f 90% of the time, mostly in guns .54 cal and bigger. It works great for priming too. One horn of 3f for loads and prime, it shoots well in my brown bess also. But some guns shoot differently with different grains and charges. Experiment to find the best combo.
Thanks! I did order some of both 3f and 2f. However, based upon everyone's responses I did order more than twice as much 3f as I did 2f.
 
For years, I only used 2f. An older gentleman I knew gifted me about 6 pounds of Goex 3f powder. When I started using it, I really didn't see anything negative in performance with my 50 caliber rifle.
 
I would highly advise looking at Grafs and Son for your Black Powder. Min buy is 4 pounds. Just do a type search. They are located in Missouri. Thier Haz Mat fee is pretty cheap too. They have Swiss, Goex Ole Enysford, Standard Goex, Shuezen and their in house brand
Grafs which is made by Goex. Check them out.
 
Grafs and Sons do have powder. I've got an order coming tomorrow for their Goex made house brand. $9.95 shipping and $12.95 Haz Mat fee. I ordered a bunch of stuff from them so it's reasonable shipping.
 
I use 3f for hunting because of the normal weather conditions in the NW since I seem to get better ignition than with either 2f or pyrodex. In your aera 2f should work well.
 
Having rifles with both the 1:24 ROT and a 1:66 ROT, I use 3F in both. I experimented with one and 3F produced the most accuracy. The other, I got groups that were everything I needed without extensive experimenting so I stuck with it. Keep it simple.
My experience with fast twists and bullets is zero. But Spark has lived in that world and has experience. Heed his words.
 

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