Nipple thread for Cabelas 1851 Navy

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I believe Cabela's 1851 Navy is made by Pietta, and if so they are M6x0.75, 0.520" long overall.
 
Thanks mykeal.

I was going to order #11 cap nipples but I'm going to wait until the pistol gets here to see how my Remington and CCI #11 caps fit the stock nipples.

I caught my wife online ordering me the pistol yesterday!

I ordered a holster and .454 ball mould for it from TOW today.

HD
 
mykeal said:
I believe Cabela's 1851 Navy is made by Pietta, and if so they are M6x0.75, 0.520" long overall.

I ordered the #11 nipples from TOW and they are not all the same length. They are the same part number and they all fit but a couple are about 1/32 longer in the threads than the others.

Will it affect anything?

I know it's a dumb question but I had to ask.

HD
 
If the height from the face of the nipple to the top of it (the cap end) is the same and is the same as your old nipples they should work fine.

The only fly in the ointment is if the threads extend inside the cylinder they will create a place for fouling to build up.
 
Zonie said:
The only fly in the ointment is if the threads extend inside the cylinder they will create a place for fouling to build up.

That's why I asked. I didn't examine the inside of the cylinder closely enough to see. I will install them and take a closer look.
I do know that the longer ones took a little more effort to seat snugly. I assume it was because the threads were cutting their way through into the cylinder.

HD
 
Ordering nipples is a complete crap shoot.

I assume the part number you ordered was PIR-A; that's the M6x0.75 threaded nipple TOTW specifies for replica revolvers. The other choice in that thread is RLP-A, which is quite a bit longer.

I've ordered that part number twice and received two different length nipples as well; in my case the difference in length was 1/16", all in the thread length. The part above the bolt face (that is, the part that protrudes out of the cylinder) was the identical length in both, so the hammer won't know the difference between them.

Zonie's point about threads inside the chamber is correct. Anti-seize is well advised here; it will help, both in terms of sealing the threads and keeping the fouling from buggering them up.

Check the length of the top part (the distance from the top of the nipple to where the nipple seats on the cylinder) of the OEM nipples with the new ones; it should be the same or slightly longer to ensure you get cap ignition.
 
mykeal said:
Check the length of the top part (the distance from the top of the nipple to where the nipple seats on the cylinder) of the OEM nipples with the new ones; it should be the same or slightly longer to ensure you get cap ignition.

They're the same as the factory nipples. Just longer in the threads.

Can they be ground down to match?

HD
 
Huntin Dawg said:
They're the same as the factory nipples. Just longer in the threads.

Can they be ground down to match?

HD

Well, yes, but they're pretty hard, and dressing the threads will be quite a chore. I'd just shoot 'em and keep 'em lubed with anti-seize.
 
mykeal said:
Huntin Dawg said:
They're the same as the factory nipples. Just longer in the threads.

Can they be ground down to match?

HD

Well, yes, but they're pretty hard, and dressing the threads will be quite a chore. I'd just shoot 'em and keep 'em lubed with anti-seize.

Will do. Thanks.

:hatsoff:

HD
 

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