No Bang on 1st Strike.

[BallsOnFire]

Took my two Uberti 1858 Remington replicas to the range. Having never fired black powder guns before I did lots of YouTube time to learn the basics. I loaded only one chamber before firing with a Pyrodex pellet, lubed wad and .454 lead ball. I used a #10 CCI cap. The first hammer strike did not ignite the charge nor did it ignite the cap. My first thought was the hammer spring might be too weak. After rotating the cylinder around for a second hammer strike the chamber fired. This was the same scenario for both revolvers. After 4 or 5 shots through each revolver with only one chamber loaded at a time I only got discharges on the 2nd hammer strike.

I am beginning to wonder if the caps were not down far enough on the nipples. Even so why did the cap not ignite when first struck? How much of the nipple should be covered by the cap? Down to the base of the nipple? Is it possible the first hammer strike is getting the cap down farther on the nipple where the second hammer strike is then somehow effective. I pressed down on the caps as hard as I could with my thumb and after the first several misfires on the first strike I stsrted using a #2 pencil to press the caps on but could not see that pressing the cap down any further than my thumb could. So, what do you guys think? Thanks.

 

[bobthemotorcycle]

No idea but don't give up, it gets way better.

 

[Winchester97]

I would say they definantly need seated further. Try a dowel rod,piece of antler, or even use the hammer to press them on....all in a safe direction for sure. If that doesn't do it, then look at your spring, then check for an obstruction or casting defect jn the hammer channel. Could be short nipples too I guess.

 

[BallsOnFire]

I would say they definantly need seated further. Try a dowel rod,piece of antler, or even use the hammer to press them on....all in a safe direction for sure. If that doesn't do it, then look at your spring, then check for an obstruction or casting defect jn the hammer channel. Could be short nipples too I guess.

Thanks for those ideas. I think I will also experiment with chamber(s) unloaded and just caps on the nipples to see if I can get more clues.

 

[flntlokr]

did you try your #11 caps? Sounds like your 10's aren't seating, as has been pointed out. Rugers take #11; maybe your pistol does too. Worth a try, just in case.

 

[BallsOnFire]

did you try your #11 caps? Sounds like your 10's aren't seating, as has been pointed out. Rugers take #11; maybe your pistol does too. Worth a try, just in case.

Yes, not knowing which size would work best I recently got very lucky and was able to get 300 of each size. I did try #11's too and saw no difference with them. I have seen it said Uberti recommends #11. Looking at them side by side on my desk I can't see any difference but apparently there is a very slight difference in height and diameter. My 73 year old eyes can't see the difference. Anyway, good thought, thanks.

 

[bubba.50]

Get some #11 caps. I had a Ruger OLd Army & the feller l got it from had #10 caps ‘cause the maanual said they’d work. Never in all the time l used those caps did it go bang on the first strike but always went off on the second strike. So when l’d load it l’d run them around once to seat the caaps and the second time to shoot. #11 caps went bang every time.

 

[FishDFly]

Since you tried both 10's and 11's you need to turn the nipples down so the cap seats further down on the nipple. Go easy doing it or you will end up having to pinch the caps to get them to stay on.

Another option to to get TRESCO nipples, they will work with #11's.

Uberti nipples are often too large.

 

[Versanaut]

I'll second a lot of the folks here.

I have Uberti 1851's. They definitely prefer Remington #10's but the CCI 11's work just as well. I also snug up the caps with a wooden dowel, But that's me being anal. They should not really need the dowel to snug up enough to fire, so if they are that tight, try another size cap. This seems to be your primary issue. That said....

Using a pellet with a lubed wad. That raises a flag for me. Some of those pellets don't like the oils from your hands. To put a lubed wad in direct contact with on one seems to be asking for some ignition troubles. Though to be honest, I do it over my loose powder without issue so long as I am shooting immediately.

I've not used pellets in a revolver before, but in my rifle, a dry cardboard 'wad' goes over my pellets and then a lubed projectile. That said, I also only use pellets in a 209 primered uh.... 'modern' type muzzleloader. The distance between your cap and the base of the pellet is pretty minimal and should not be a problem for ignition.

I am now curious how many others are using pellets in the C&B's!

 

[FishDFly]

I only use BP

 

[BallsOnFire]

I'll second a lot of the folks here.

I have Uberti 1851's. They definitely prefer Remington #10's but the CCI 11's work just as well. I also snug up the caps with a wooden dowel, But that's me being anal. They should not really need the dowel to snug up enough to fire, so if they are that tight, try another size cap. This seems to be your primary issue. That said....

Using a pellet with a lubed wad. That raises a flag for me. Some of those pellets don't like the oils from your hands. To put a lubed wad in direct contact with on one seems to be asking for some ignition troubles. Though to be honest, I do it over my loose powder without issue so long as I am shooting immediately.

I've not used pellets in a revolver before, but in my rifle, a dry cardboard 'wad' goes over my pellets and then a lubed projectile. That said, I also only use pellets in a 209 primered uh.... 'modern' type muzzleloader. The distance between your cap and the base of the pellet is pretty minimal and should not be a problem for ignition.

I am now curious how many others are using pellets in the C&B's!

I don't think the pellet powder was an issue because they went kaboom as long as the cap fired. Getting the cap to fire is my problem but yes, contaminated powder would be a problem. By the way I am using the pellet form of powder because I could not find any granulated in stock anywhere. Thanks.

 

[kje54]

Took my two Uberti 1858 Remington replicas to the range. Having never fired black powder guns before I did lots of YouTube time to learn the basics. I loaded only one chamber before firing with a Pyrodex pellet, lubed wad and .454 lead ball. I used a #10 CCI cap. The first hammer strike did not ignite the charge nor did it ignite the cap. My first thought was the hammer spring might be too weak. After rotating the cylinder around for a second hammer strike the chamber fired. This was the same scenario for both revolvers. After 4 or 5 shots through each revolver with only one chamber loaded at a time I only got discharges on the 2nd hammer strike.

I am beginning to wonder if the caps were not down far enough on the nipples. Even so why did the cap not ignite when first struck? How much of the nipple should be covered by the cap? Down to the base of the nipple? Is it possible the first hammer strike is getting the cap down farther on the nipple where the second hammer strike is then somehow effective. I pressed down on the caps as hard as I could with my thumb and after the first several misfires on the first strike I stsrted using a #2 pencil to press the caps on but could not see that pressing the cap down any further than my thumb could. So, what do you guys think? Thanks.

Check to make sure there's no oil or grease in the nipple or at the back end of the chambers. You might want to consider different nipples and maybe #11M caps that are designed for igniting synthetic black powder however they do tend to burst apart when ignited and could jam the cylinder. Some have recommended drilling out the nipple holes just a tad bit more or replacing the stock nipples with SliXshot nipples.
I use black powder so I don't have that problem.

 

[FishDFly]

Take one (1) of your nipples and chuck in a drill press or cordless drill. Carefully remove some of the metal where the cap fits. Put the nipple back into the cylinder, put a cap on it and see if it will fire. If so, problem solved.

Seems Italian nipples are a bit too large.

 

[Grenadier1758]

A couple of the previous posters have identified the probable source of the problem. The clue is that it takes two hammer falls for the cap to fire. That is a symptom of the nipple being oversize. The cure is to go to the hardware store and buy a metric 6x.75mm nut. Actually, take one of the nipples with you to the hardware store to be sure that you have selected the correct thread size. Cut a slot in one of the faces so the nut can clamp down on the threads of the nipple as you chuck the nipple and nut in your electric drill. Very lightly file some of the sides of the nipple down so the cap fits better. Just for confirmation, you can measure the tip of the nipple and the side of the cone a cap height down. A #10 CCI cap fits on a 0.159" tip and the #11 fits on a 0.165" tip.

Note: The Remington #10 cap and the Remington #11 and the CCI #11 cap have the same diameter opening. The difference is that the Remington #10 cap is longer and fits most revolver nipples better. RWS 1075 caps tend to fragment more than others and jam the workings of a revolver. After firing one chamber, it is a good practice to raise the muzzle of the revolver to be pointing straight up before cocking the hammer. The cap fragments fall out and seldom jam the workings.

 

[FishDFly]

Well written.

 

[Bad Karma]

Work on the cones. There’s no need for calloused thumbs, pencils, dowel rods or Deer antlers. Your chosen cap should slip right on and be snuggly seated wit light thumb pressure. Fitted thus they don’t fall off and they fire first time every time.

 

[Throwdown58]

#10 caps always require two hits on at least a few cylinders, no matter what the gun. See if you can find some RWS caps. They are way better. I haven't seen #11s available at all for a while, but someone posted a link earlier this week for RWS.

 

[wb78963]

That first strike is called "dry firing" but be careful because sometimes the first strike is a bang.
The latest project is getting CCI#11 caps to work reliably on Slixshot nipples.
I am getting a lot of dry fire practice and I DO NOT intend to muck about with those nipples.
Checking with TOW it seems some are now being made of unobtainium.
Respectfully
Bunk

 

[Bad Karma]

#10 caps always require two hits on at least a few cylinders, no matter what the gun. See if you can find some RWS caps. They are way better. I haven't seen #11s available at all for a while, but someone posted a link earlier this week for RWS.

I haven’t had a misfire in a very long time. (Remington 10’s) are all I use. The caps must fit. Either by accident or design and it’s not dif to do. If I can do it, so can you. I don’t shoot around other people very often, mostly in my backyard, but I’d be ashamed to resort to some of these measures in public. Samuel Colt designed these guns as reliable instruments to be counted on in the most dire of circumstances... one would think that after 150 years of progress we could get this right.

 

[Throwdown58]

Yes I should have said CCI 10s. The Remington with the green inside is awesome. Just as good as RWS.