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No patches/wads for revolvers?

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Hey guys I’m not here to tell you mine is right and yours is wrong but this is the way I do it. The match rules that I shoot to demand grease over the balls, no argument. So for the past 40 years I have shot my ROA with 457 balls and grease over the front. Is it dirty 🤔, define dirty, I have cartridge guns that make my hands dirty. The amount of grease you put in defines how greasy you will end up. I make my own lube, I am happy with it and can shoot 70 rounds plus before I need to take anything apart because it is getting stuff. A nylon brush over the nipples and a swab through the barrel and cylinder keeps me going. The powder must be slightly compressed otherwise you will get inconsistency in ignition. So I’m saying that I can’t remember the last time I had a cap misfire or a hangfire with my charge. Practice, recognition and observation is the key, nobody knows everything, I listen and learn and now I help newbies, it’s only an opinion from years of trial and observation. I have won both state and national championships so I suppose I may know something, but always willing to learn more. Just bought my first frontstuffer rifle, so that is why I am here.
 
It’s been a while since I’ve pan lubed anything. I run them through a lubrisizer and they load as easily as balls do. The Kerr bullets might load easier than ball.
I've been dip lubing my conicals and setting them on foil or wax paper to cool, it's actually way faster than making wads. That drawing of the conical with the huge grease groove should shoot clean all day. I've set my 1860 up with a .002 cylinder gap, it shoots clean with even less lube and is a snap to clean as the gun doesn't get very dirty. I gotta get me one of those moulds...
 
I've been dip lubing my conicals and setting them on foil or wax paper to cool, it's actually way faster than making wads. That drawing of the conical with the huge grease groove should shoot clean all day. I've set my 1860 up with a .002 cylinder gap, it shoots clean with even less lube and is a snap to clean as the gun doesn't get very dirty. I gotta get me one of those moulds...
Dip lubing is the trick for the Kerr bullet. I melt the lube a warm the bullets on the hot plate grab them with a needle nose pliers, dip them and set aside to cool. Otherwise I really appreciate my Lubrisizer!
 
Dip lubing is the trick for the Kerr bullet. I melt the lube a warm the bullets on the hot plate grab them with a needle nose pliers, dip them and set aside to cool. Otherwise I really appreciate my Lubrisizer!
To lube my Sharps ring tails I made a dipper out of a .50S&W (unmentionable) case and lube the bullet, but not the bullet nose. it works well with the
Eras Gone Smith bullet also. To keep the lube good and hot put the lube container in a pan of close to boiling water on a hot plate.
Been involved with unmentionables but keep up here.
Hold Center
make smoke
Bunk
 
Bad Karma,
I was looking at the accurate moulds, the 225L, 220S, and 245C. Can you please give your opinions of them for deer hunting? They'll be used mostly in my 60 army, Rogers and Spencer, and an Uberti Remington carbine. I could get 2 designs in one mould, even all 3, but don't want to waste space on one that doesn't perform. Any insight is appreciated, thank you.
 
Bad Karma,
I was looking at the accurate moulds, the 225L, 220S, and 245C. Can you please give your opinions of them for deer hunting? They'll be used mostly in my 60 army, Rogers and Spencer, and an Uberti Remington carbine. I could get 2 designs in one mould, even all 3, but don't want to waste space on one that doesn't perform. Any insight is appreciated, thank you.
I’d shoot the 220S, and 245C. Both are good bullets and capable of fine accuracy. I really like the 245C in the Ruger and occasionally a Shooters Model Remington replica. The 220S is better in the Colts.
 
interesting post. Just read the whole thing and got concerned we were going into the ditch. Thankfully we came back to solid ground. Thanks fella’s
 
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