Non-Messy Soap and Water Wash – Now how do I stop rust without causing misfires!

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After cleaning the bore, I swab it dry with cleaning patches and then liberally swab the bore with Fluid Film to prevent rust. Before I load the rifle again, I swab out the bore with dry patches.

I bought a borescope, and started looking closely at my bores. Even if I dry the bore with alcohol and lightly lube with a rust prevention agent, I am still finding rust in the bore. Therefore I started applying Fluid Film quite liberally before putting the rifle away.

Since you have a second-hand rifle, another thing you might want to try is scrubbing the bore a few dozen times with a tight wad of steel wool. You can even apply some valve grinding paste to the steel wool. Get that bore cleaned out well to reduce fouling.
I did that right when I got it, 2 swipes with find scotchbrite and it looked great!

Again, I would worry FF would gunk up the chamber, but it works great on my truck!
 
I can't resist kicking this hornets nest I have been using the take the barrel out of the stock on both of my CVA Kentucky's since the day I first shot them the pins are as tight today (30+ years) as they were the day I built them. It takes me longer to boil the water then it does to clean the gun. I use hot water because it dries instantly and leaves the barrel almost to hot to hold I then wipe the bore with a wonder lubed patch once down and out turn the patch over and repeat then take another lubed patch and wipe the entire outside of the barrel when done properly you can see the lube melting. after wiping put the gun back together, I have been doing this for 30+ years over 20,000 rounds fired there is no evidence of rust what so ever and it will still shoot clover leaves at 50-100 yards (I can't I shake and tremor to much)
 
Thanks, but cleaning is not my problem, I hope to protect the metal without gunking up the patent chamber.

Do you alcohol wipe/flush before shooting?
No. At the range I run a dry patch to pick up the Ballistol and then shoot. Store your rifle muzzle down and your patent breech won’t collect gunk.
 
I’m a new guy, I have a total of 2 whole months experience with blackpowder. Please excuse my ignorance if you guys have seen this 1000 times.

Looking for an easier way to get the crud out of the patent chamber of my 2nd hand Traditions flintlock, I took a 5mm HSCS (hex socket cap screw), ran a 1/8 drill through it, put a nut and an o-ring on it, and pushed a vinyl tube over it. Screwed it into the threaded hole for the touchhole screw so the o-ring seals the breech and put a vinyl tube on it running to a cup of hot soapy water.

Then I ran a soapy mop up and down the bore, it pumped the soapy water back and forth through the chamber and bore. After washing, I run hot water from the sink into the breech to rinse everything, then dry. Seems to work very well without splashing water all over the gun.

Now my question: After it is all dry, what can I put in the patent chamber to prevent rust but won’t gunk up next time I shoot it?

First thing that comes to mind is a Teflon or silicone mold release agent, but I have no idea how blackpowder will react to it.
I’m a new guy, I have a total of 2 whole months experience with blackpowder. Please excuse my ignorance if you guys have seen this 1000 times.

Looking for an easier way to get the crud out of the patent chamber of my 2nd hand Traditions flintlock, I took a 5mm HSCS (hex socket cap screw), ran a 1/8 drill through it, put a nut and an o-ring on it, and pushed a vinyl tube over it. Screwed it into the threaded hole for the touchhole screw so the o-ring seals the breech and put a vinyl tube on it running to a cup of hot soapy water.

Then I ran a soapy mop up and down the bore, it pumped the soapy water back and forth through the chamber and bore. After washing, I run hot water from the sink into the breech to rinse everything, then dry. Seems to work very well without splashing water all over the gun.

Now my question: After it is all dry, what can I put in the patent chamber to prevent rust but won’t gunk up next time I shoot it?

First thing that comes to mind is a Teflon or silicone mold release agent, but I have no idea how blackpowder will react to it.

Does anyone have any suggestions on traditional or modern chemicals that will provide a rust preventative coating but will not gunk up the patent chamber? This stupid chamber seems to be the crux of my misfire problems and I need to keep it clear, but I don’t want it to rust either.

Thanks!!!

View attachment 379125
I keep reading about how almost everyone cleans their C&B revolvers with soap and water, then carefully dries them to prevent rust. Can't quite wrap my mind around all this extra work. As stated, before on this form, I have 40+ years' experience with C&B revolvers. Though some may find it peculiar that I do sometimes use one for self-defense and not just for hobby shooting. In all these years, I have never cleaned one with soap and water and in all these years I have never, NEVER found even a hint of rust on one. I do occasionally take them apart to get into the nooks and crannies but have only used a good powder solvent on occasion, Gun Scrubber followed by a light oiling. Though I've never read anything to the contrary, I doubt people, cowboys, soldiers and such had ready access to buckets of soap and water. Just saying! I was taught many years ago by my Platoon Sgt. in Viet-Nam that if you take care of your weapon, it will take care of you. My rifle was probably the most pampered one 'in country.'

Does anyone have any suggestions on traditional or modern chemicals that will provide a rust preventative coating but will not gunk up the patent chamber? This stupid chamber seems to be the crux of my misfire problems and I need to keep it clear, but I don’t want it to rust either.

Thanks!!!

View attachment 379125
 
I use a cleaning patch slotted holder to clean the patent breech. I put the patch through the slot, but only 1/4 or 1/3 of the way, fold that over the end of the patch holder and then fold the other side over that. Put that down the barrel and spin it in the breech with your solvent of choice. I then dry the barrel and breech and use Barricade as a rust protectant, it dries to a film. I store the rifle barrel down and I run a dry patch down the barrel or do nothing before firing. Never had a fail to fire on the first shot that I can remember.
 
Help me understand. Petroleum is bad, but Balistol is ok? I know the BPCR guys all use it. Will isopropyl alcohol dissolve it and rinse it out?

And I can expect the alcohol to rinse it out of the patent chamber?

Thanks.
There are those that disparage petroleum oils since petroleum oils weren't used historically. Well, our steel wasn't available historically also and no one is building iron barrels welded up from a flat skelp of iron. Yes, isopropyl rubbing alcohol will rinse petroleum oils from the barrel and chambered breech.
 
I use a cleaning patch slotted holder to clean the patent breech. I put the patch through the slot, but only 1/4 or 1/3 of the way, fold that over the end of the patch holder and then fold the other side over that. Put that down the barrel and spin it in the breech with your solvent of choice. I then dry the barrel and breech and use Barricade as a rust protectant, it dries to a film. I store the rifle barrel down and I run a dry patch down the barrel or do nothing before firing. Never had a fail to fire on the first shot that I can remember.
Thanks. I put a .22 patch holder in and the very tip barely reaches the threaded holed for the touchhole screw, apparently there is a reduction in dia before it gets there. I will get a .22 mop and try that. I have been using a .22 brush with a patch over the tip. That might be the best I'll be able to do.
 
Thanks guys, I really appreciate all the help, but please forgive the repetition.

I am ok with the wash/rinse/dry.

I am looking to see if anyone has a good idea how to protect the patent chamber from rust AFTER cleaning/drying that:

-Will not result in crud build-up in the chamber when fired, or
-Is easily dissolved and removed from the patent chamber before firing.

I do not want to re-wash/dry a clean rifle just to remove oil from the patent chamber. Swiping the bore is not a problem, but removing oil from the chamber is much more critical and difficult. I just want to get the chamber clean so the powder and oil residue don't crud it up.

I tested if 91% isopropyl alcohol will mix with Ballistol, canola oil, and olive oil, it does not! That means it will not actually dissolve and rinse these lubes. It looks like it is the wiping that removes the oil and not the alcohol acting as a solvent.

For now I'll just leave the chamber dry and use very light oil on the bore. For longer term I'll oil everything and wash it before use.
 
I can't resist kicking this hornets nest I have been using the take the barrel out of the stock on both of my CVA Kentucky's since the day I first shot them the pins are as tight today (30+ years) as they were the day I built them. It takes me longer to boil the water then it does to clean the gun. I use hot water because it dries instantly and leaves the barrel almost to hot to hold I then wipe the bore with a wonder lubed patch once down and out turn the patch over and repeat then take another lubed patch and wipe the entire outside of the barrel when done properly you can see the lube melting. after wiping put the gun back together, I have been doing this for 30+ years over 20,000 rounds fired there is no evidence of rust what so ever and it will still shoot clover leaves at 50-100 yards (I can't I shake and tremor to much)
I have done this twice so far, you are absolutely correct, it is not difficult (3 pins and a screw) and makes everything waaaay better! The only drawback is the tang mounted rear peep I made, it will lose zero every time. I am tempted to pin it.

Removing the barrel, leaving it off during storage, then some carburetor cleaner in the touch hole to dissolve the oil in the chamber and a barrel swipe, reassemble, everything is perfect. You have encouraged me to give this more serious consideration! :)

I'll take a closer look at what I can do about the peep. The other option is get a better notch rear sight. Hmmm THANKS!!! From a Yank!!!! 😆😉
 
Here you go, start to finish. Clean the bore with dawn soap and water. Use a small scraper (from Track of the Wolf) and about a .32 or.38 cal. brush to clean the patent breech. Remove and clean the nipple or touch hole depending on what you have. Clean the drum with a pipe cleaner. Then rinse (swab) the barrel with a ballistol/water mixture. Swab the barrel dry. Place in the hot sun or oven (if a hooked barrel) on warm to thoroughly dry the barrel. The ballistol film will prevent flash rusting. If I'm going to shoot in a month or so I squirt some ballistol into the breech and swab the barrel. If storage is longer I use Barricade. Store with the muzzle facing down. Before shooting put some denatured alcohol in the breech. Let it sit for a bit and then let it run down the barrel. Swab the barrel dry. Blow compressed air through the barrel and nipple if you can. Go shooting!!!
 
The last step in my routine is a Ballistol lubed patch on a .45 cal brush (mine are .50 cal rifles) down the barrel so the tip of the brush bottoms out in the patent breech. I know it did because I can see the shape of the breech on it when I pull it out. Use a smaller one for the breech if you’re still unsure.
That’s it, all done and put it away muzzle down.
Before shooting, dry patch and good to go.

Happy shooting. :)
 
I am looking to see if anyone has a good idea how to protect the patent chamber from rust AFTER cleaning/drying that:

-Will not result in crud build-up in the chamber when fired, or
-Is easily dissolved and removed from the patent chamber before firing.
Curious as to what you found when trying the rust preventatives that dry to a non oily film, such as the Eezox and Baricade that were previously suggested? I’ve used both basically interchangeably without issue in both chambered and non chambered muzzleloader breeches without the need or concern to wipe anything from bore or chamber (after the product drys) before loading. For giggles and kicks have left guns loaded for extended periods (think many months) with no change in muzzle velocity or POI, at least at 100 yards, when I fired the loads off. In the pasted I have checked with a borescope and it revealed no excessive crud build up after range sessions. Based solely on my and others empirical data, neither product appears to react badly with blackpowder, though you could test on your own.
 
Curious as to what you found when trying the rust preventatives that dry to a non oily film, such as the Eezox and Baricade that were previously suggested? I’ve used both basically interchangeably without issue in both chambered and non chambered muzzleloader breeches without the need or concern to wipe anything from bore or chamber (after the product drys) before loading. For giggles and kicks have left guns loaded for extended periods (think many months) with no change in muzzle velocity or POI, at least at 100 yards, when I fired the loads off. In the pasted I have checked with a borescope and it revealed no excessive crud build up after range sessions. Based solely on my and others empirical data, neither product appears to react badly with blackpowder, though you could test on your own.
Thanks! I must have missed the post on the Eezox, it is a dry film lube just like I was looking for! The Barricade description doesn't tell me much. I will order some Eezox! Thanks!
 
Thanks! I must have missed the post on the Eezox, it is a dry film lube just like I was looking for! The Barricade description doesn't tell me much. I will order some Eezox! Thanks
Ok, just ‘assumed’ you saw my post in this thread (third post) when you tagged it with a like and was curious why you hadn’t mentioned what you found. I’ve been using Eezox for quite a while now, maybe 25% into a quart of the stuff has gone down the bores of rifles, shotguns and handguns with no issues to date. I had used Barricade in the past when it was called Birchwood Casey Sheath with no issues, but tried Eezox when Sheath became unavailable (they were rebranding the product as Barricade at the time guess) and haven’t looked back. To be honest, a quart lasts a long time.

Post in thread 'Non-Messy Soap and Water Wash – Now how do I stop rust without causing misfires!'
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...-without-causing-misfires.190676/post-2793977
 


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