Number 11 caps

[bang]

Yes the cone is where the cap goes.

 

[Taxidermydude69]

Can you write a message on here? Your measuring in mm?

 

[Taxidermydude69]

You might have to take some pics so I can see how you are measuring and where

 

[Taxidermydude69]

Now I'm getting .53 almost .54

 

[bang]

Measuring in inches.

 

[bang]

.53, is 0.530 inches

 

[bang]

You are within tolerances for 0.525

 

[bang]

Have you checked the calipers against a known thickness?

 

[Taxidermydude69]

Have you checked the calipers against a known thickness?

No I havnt. Don't know what I have that's exact. These calipers are new and supose to be within .02 or so.ething like that

 

[Taxidermydude69]

So do you think I'm closer to .525 and 300 cone? I'll measure again tomorrow before I call and order some. Thanks for your help. Is your gun a 44 cal pietta?

 

[bang]

So do you think I'm closer to .525 and 300 cone? I'll measure again tomorrow before I call and order some. Thanks for your help. Is your gun a 44 cal pietta?

I have 2 Pietta 1858s in the target model 44 and 1 mid 1970s Euro Arms 1858, 44. Also one Sheriff, 44 and a Belt pistol in 36cal. The shorter barreled Sheriff and Belt handle nicely but the target models will hit inside 2 inch bull at 25 yards all day and are my go to for plinking.
It seems you have the .525/300 nipple but without being there with hands on all I can do is go by your measurements. I would check the threaded end of the nipple for any burrs from the threading process or carbon, if fired, that could cause a larger reading. Also to know just how the calipers are reading I would measure some feeler gages to see if there is any variation in how it reads. I don't see the calipers being as much as .014 out of variation so I'm only able to guess by the .530 measurement in that it's closer to .525. Keep in mind machining tolerances can run +/-.003.
Knowing the age of your revolver could be very handy in determining. On the frame there should be a stamp. A box with two letters. If it is very new the box might have two digit number being the year of make. If it has roman numerals stamped on the frame then it's near 50 -70 years old. It would be great if you could post pics of all the markings so I know the age of it.
Cap n ball has gone through a variety of manufacturing changes over the years. Very early they used a 12 x28 threaded nipples which really didn't match up with many metric or SAE standards. They improved by using M6 and some M8 then for sales in SAE standard countries used some SAE standards. It got real confusing and still can be.
Right around turn of the century manufactures started using CNC manufacturing. When that happened a lot of the parts lost their interchangeability with the older non CNC manufactured guns. Luckily most can be hand fitted and will function but it can be tedious.
My 1970s Euro Arms 1858 is an example. The cylinder in function is just like the Pietta but the cylinder is a hair shorter. If you put the Euro Arms cylinder in a Pietta the cylinder to barrel gap is terrible and a Pietta cylinder will not fit in the Euro Arms. With Euro Arms cylinders being hard to find and most used and we'll worn I had to hone the front of the frame so the Pietta cylinder will work. Doing so though made the Euro Arms where the original cylinder is now not worth using because of the cylinder to barrel gap and fore and aft play is out of specifications. Not a bad trade with the newer Pietta cylinders fitting it now.
So, the more information you know about your revolver the better. Age, pre CNC or newer CNC manufactured, brand. Once you understand the effects of this information it makes it a lot easier to make parts decisions.
Be patient. You are on the right forum to learn. It can be very difficult at times since we can only discuss it but don't have the hands on capabilities.

 

[Baggy270]

I've been having a time lately lo acting number 11 caps and when I did they don't fit my pietta 1858 that I put replacement nipples number 11 in and also just got a replacement cylinder from Taylor's &Co that has number 11 nipples and these caps fall right off. Yes of course you can pinch the cap and get it to stay but I shouldn't have to do that with a brand new cylinder and nipples. Are these caps just weird or what?

I chucked my Pietta and Uberti nipples in my drill and filed em down to #10 size. Got tired of squeezing #11’s down.

Dave

 

[Taxidermydude69]

I chucked my Pietta and Uberti nipples in my drill and filed em down to #10 size. Got tired of squeezing #11’s down.

Dave

Can't that cause chain fire? I'm asking because I've not even fired mine yet

 

[Taxidermydude69]

I have 2 Pietta 1858s in the target model 44 and 1 mid 1970s Euro Arms 1858, 44. Also one Sheriff, 44 and a Belt pistol in 36cal. The shorter barreled Sheriff and Belt handle nicely but the target models will hit inside 2 inch bull at 25 yards all day and are my go to for plinking.
It seems you have the .525/300 nipple but without being there with hands on all I can do is go by your measurements. I would check the threaded end of the nipple for any burrs from the threading process or carbon, if fired, that could cause a larger reading. Also to know just how the calipers are reading I would measure some feeler gages to see if there is any variation in how it reads. I don't see the calipers being as much as .014 out of variation so I'm only able to guess by the .530 measurement in that it's closer to .525. Keep in mind machining tolerances can run +/-.003.
Knowing the age of your revolver could be very handy in determining. On the frame there should be a stamp. A box with two letters. If it is very new the box might have two digit number being the year of make. If it has roman numerals stamped on the frame then it's near 50 -70 years old. It would be great if you could post pics of all the markings so I know the age of it.
Cap n ball has gone through a variety of manufacturing changes over the years. Very early they used a 12 x28 threaded nipples which really didn't match up with many metric or SAE standards. They improved by using M6 and some M8 then for sales in SAE standard countries used some SAE standards. It got real confusing and still can be.
Right around turn of the century manufactures started using CNC manufacturing. When that happened a lot of the parts lost their interchangeability with the older non CNC manufactured guns. Luckily most can be hand fitted and will function but it can be tedious.
My 1970s Euro Arms 1858 is an example. The cylinder in function is just like the Pietta but the cylinder is a hair shorter. If you put the Euro Arms cylinder in a Pietta the cylinder to barrel gap is terrible and a Pietta cylinder will not fit in the Euro Arms. With Euro Arms cylinders being hard to find and most used and we'll worn I had to hone the front of the frame so the Pietta cylinder will work. Doing so though made the Euro Arms where the original cylinder is now not worth using because of the cylinder to barrel gap and fore and aft play is out of specifications. Not a bad trade with the newer Pietta cylinders fitting it now.
So, the more information you know about your revolver the better. Age, pre CNC or newer CNC manufactured, brand. Once you understand the effects of this information it makes it a lot easier to make parts decisions.
Be patient. You are on the right forum to learn. It can be very difficult at times since we can only discuss it but don't have the hands on capabilities.

I do know by looking up the time stamp that mine was made 8n 2004. Thats the first thing I did for this pietta. I have not yet tried looking up thread patterns or anything for it yet because I don't know where to look

Yes I saw that too but the fact remains that I've never ever in the near 50 years of shooting heard of a nipple that accepted two sizes. Some might accept one or the other but not either, that's a matter of manufacturing. From factory anything below Dragoon and ROA in revolver and pistol unless special ordered are #10 and no amount of company verbage will change that. Whoever wrote the discription obviously got it wrong because you hold the proof. Measure a nipple that fits and will pop a cap and get a set for #11s from Track and be done with it. If it measures .544 then you need the ,319 cone. If it measures .525 you need .300 cone. Measurements are subject to around .002 deviation. M6 outside thread diameter measures .224-.234.

I ordered some from Track but he seems to think the ones for that yr gun was the .319 cone. My buddys pietta was newer. He said they would work

 

[Henry Miles]

Squeezing caps to make them fit is the BEST way to get a chain fire!

 

[Taxidermydude69]

Squeezing caps to make them fit is the BEST way to get a chain fire!

Not disagreeing with as I don't know but talked to Taylor's and Co today and they said it almost never happens from that end. I don't want to take the chance my self

 

[Grenadier1758]

You need a more precise calipers that can measure to 0.001. Your caliper may not be able to differentiate between a #10 cone with a diameter of 0.155" and a #11 cone with a diameter of 0.165". The $20 caliper at Harbor Freight will be adequate for the items you need to measure.

6 in. Digital Caliper (harborfreight.com)

 

[Taxidermydude69]

You need a more precise calipers that can measure to 0.001. Your caliper may not be able to differentiate between a #10 cone with a diameter of 0.155" and a #11 cone with a diameter of 0.165". The $20 caliper at Harbor Freight will be adequate for the items you need to measure.

6 in. Digital Caliper (harborfreight.com)

I got the 10$ calipers. I called TOF and they pretty much knew what I needed by the yr so if not I'll send em back and get the other ones

 

[Henry Miles]

Not disagreeing with as I don't know but talked to Taylor's and Co today and they said it almost never happens from that end. I don't want to take the chance my self

These are the same people who sold you the wrong size nipples...
Loose fitting caps cause chain fires, due to the increased likelihood that some fall off while shooting, leaving the nipple open to hot gas.

 

[Taxidermydude69]

These are the same people who sold you the wrong size nipples...
Loose fitting caps cause chain fires, due to the increased likelihood that some fall off while shooting, leaving the nipple open to hot gas.

Makes sense to me. So when a chain fire happens another charge goes off at the same time or after?