Number 13

[Griz]

I've been usin' #13 for many years. I stick a toothpick in the flash hole and shoot a good shot of 13 in the barrel, put my thumb over the end of the barrel and tip the rifle around to wash it back and forth in the barrel, lean it up against a tree and proceed to clean and oil the lock while it simmers. Then I put the ramrod with a wet patch of 13 in the barrel and pull the toothpick and shoot the black manure out the touch hole. 12 - 15 patches later the barrel is clean and dry, apply Birchwood Casey's Seath and I never have to look at it again till the next time I shoot and I never get rust.
The only time I had any rust was when I went through the barrel process but got into a hawk and knife competition and left the rifle sit for about an hour before I got back to it and then it did have a little rust, but it was removed very easily and was not the fault of the #13, it was my own stupidity for letting it sit so long.
But this is just my .02

 

[Zonie]

As I said, I planned on running a real test on my .36 cal revolver and today was the day! :grin:

14 rounds of .375 ball over 20 grains of Schuetzen FFFg were fired. The chambers were sealed with TC1000 bore butter.

Once home, I cleaned the barrel using only TC #13. No water.
After running 7 patches thru the barrel to make sure it was dry, I sit it aside for about 4 minutes before I lubed it. These 7 patches did not show anything unusual.

Prior to lubing it, I ran one more dry patch thru the bore. Rust!
I am currently running the refrigeration on my house and the relative humidity inside is very low so this is not due to my living in a swamp.

This gun has been fired and cleaned many times during the past 6 years so this is not due to manufacturing fluids oozing out of the metal.

I don't have any idea what the real problem is unless it is that the stuff cleans too good and the silicone oil stuff does not prevent rust.

Just thought I should give it a fair test, and I now feel that I have.

I wonder if this stuff will kill Bermuda Grass that's growing up between the bricks in my driveway?

 

[paulvallandigham]

Most of us like to clean using hot water, out of habit. If you heat the barrel up( to help it dry) that evaporation that takes place also exposes the bare metal during the evaporation process, and actually speeds up corrosion. If you use hot water, just flush, or ' rinse 'with cold water before drying. Cold metal will corrode slower, and give you time to run a lubed patch down the chambers, and the barrel before rust appears. Actually, water is the solvent, and it does not need to be hot to work. Cold, or tepid water works just as well.

 

[MSW]

thanks for the 'heads up.' as usual, you're da man when it comes to being fair, objective and hardassed about the unpleasant results. i've always had good result with warm soapy water, hoppes, and CLP. youy test shows another reason- if it ain't broke, don't tinker with it!