number of keys needed

[oldarmy]

My latest project is here.
It's going to be a walnut stocked early piece.
Made for hunting deer in Northern NY.. FT Drum area
The barrel is only 32" long. Straight GM in .58
How many keys should I use?
I would think 2 would be enough. One just behind the nose cap and the other mid-way on the fore stock.
I can use 3 if you think it's necessary.

 

[rafterob]

You don't say if it is full or half stock. I might consider three if it is a full stock, although two would do the job. I think I would cut out some escutcheon silhouettes and lay them on the stock to judge what looked best.

 

[rabjr]

My .58 has a 32" barrel with 3 keys. Course they are New England style, through the thimbles, so 3 looks best on mine and I believe wouldn't with just 2.

 

[oldarmy]

thanks,
I can go with 3 keys.
It's not going to have escutcheons. Just plain wood and the keys.
Mike

 

[Ephraim]

oldarmy I would use 3. on a 42" barrel I use 4 just finished a mule ear with a 42" barrel 3/4 .40 looks good and shoots fine. I think it makes the wood and barrel more stable.
Ephraim
Ps. my computer is wackie or I would send pic's.

 

[rabjr]

thanks,
I can go with 3 keys.
It's not going to have escutcheons. Just plain wood and the keys.
Mike

My hunting rifle dosan't have escutcheons either, I personally think it's a cleaner look. I did put them on my squirrel rifle though to show the difference.

 

[TinStar]

What about spacing of the keys or pins for various barrel lengths?

TinStar
Soli Deo Gloria!

 

[Mike Brooks]

My latest project is here.
It's going to be a walnut stocked early piece.
Made for hunting deer in Northern NY.. FT Drum area
The barrel is only 32" long. Straight GM in .58
How many keys should I use?
I would think 2 would be enough. One just behind the nose cap and the other mid-way on the fore stock.
I can use 3 if you think it's necessary.

Unless the gun is english I wouldn't use keys at all, pins are a far better choice.

 

[Roy]

thanks,
I can go with 3 keys.
It's not going to have escutcheons. Just plain wood and the keys.
Mike

My hunting rifle dosan't have escutcheons either, I personally think it's a cleaner look. I did put them on my squirrel rifle though to show the difference.

Harder to do than it looks.. to make a clean looking square for the key. :v With escutcheons they cover any goofs... ofcourse unless there is a goof inletting the escutcheon :haha:

 

[oldarmy]

Thanks for the help, as always :thumbsup:
After looking over all my parts. Discovered a front sling swivel that is going to be installed :redface:
Makes no sense to use keys on a rifle with a front sling swivel.
Unless he unscrews the post every time.
So I am going to use 3 under-lugs and pins.
Regards
Mike

 

[Mike Brooks]

Thanks for the help, as always :thumbsup:
After looking over all my parts. Discovered a front sling swivel that is going to be installed :redface:
Makes no sense to use keys on a rifle with a front sling swivel.
Unless he unscrews the post every time.
So I am going to use 3 under-lugs and pins.
Regards
Mike

:thumbsup:

 

[rabjr]

thanks,
I can go with 3 keys.
It's not going to have escutcheons. Just plain wood and the keys.
Mike

My hunting rifle dosan't have escutcheons either, I personally think it's a cleaner look. I did put them on my squirrel rifle though to show the difference.

Harder to do than it looks.. to make a clean looking square for the key. :v With escutcheons they cover any goofs... ofcourse unless there is a goof inletting the escutcheon :haha:

Well smarty, there isn't any goofs on mine! They look just fine. :wink:

I hear ya Mike but they were used a lot up here in New England. :idunno:

 

[rabjr]

Thanks for the help, as always :thumbsup:
After looking over all my parts. Discovered a front sling swivel that is going to be installed :redface:
Makes no sense to use keys on a rifle with a front sling swivel.
Unless he unscrews the post every time.
So I am going to use 3 under-lugs and pins.
Regards
Mike

Totally lost me here, what does it matter if it's pins or key's, you still need to unscrew the sling swivel yo take it off.

 

[oldarmy]

The sling swivel bolt is going to go through an under-lug that is dovetailed into the barrel.
The sling needs the extra support, because the wood is going to be very thin in the fore stock
So, rather then just taping out the keys and unscrewing the tang bolt. Matt-the owner- with also have to detach the front sling assembly bolt every time he wants to remove the barrel.
It's to much trouble.
If there wasn't a sling attachment, I would go with the keys. Just because I know Matt.. The easier it is to clean the better he likes it.
But, he likes Military guns and they look "naked" with a sling :hmm:
This is is his 10yr Infantry gift. He is redeploying back to Ft Drum, where he says the hunting is great.. The US Government doesn't like modern gun owners running around their bases with firearms, so the deer are unused to being hunted. Due to black powder "loophole :grin: "
This rifle should work. :thumbsup:
When I give him the rifle, will explain how it need to be cleaned.

 

[rabjr]

The sling swivel bolt is going to go through an under-lug that is dovetailed into the barrel.
The sling needs the extra support, because the wood is going to be very thin in the fore stock

I know I've done it. Personally it's no bother to unscrew the sling on my 1792.

I'm sure living in New England your aware of how they mounted keys through the ramrod pipes. I would think with just a little effort in thinkin on this, a sling ring could be made to fit with a key holding it on and the ramrod pipe giving it support. This way you can forgo the sling screw Or did I read you wrong and he doesn't care about a sling?
http://www.nimrodsplace.com/nerifle17.html

 

[oldarmy]

Matt, wants a sling on the rifle.
Should have typed "it looks naked WITHOUT a Sling" :v