Old CVA Tower Pistol- a few issues

[cdg]

Hello. Well, first I would like to say that I purchased my first muzzleloader. It took about 200 posts, but thankyou all for not giving up on me. :grin:

OK, so if you haven't guessed, I received an offer from a friend for a CVA tower pistol for 20 bucks shipped. It is a precussion cap model, supposedly missing the nosecap (whatever that is) and most likely needs adjustment for the nipple allignment.

Questions as follows:

1) What is a nosecap and how expensive are they? From what I've seen in pictures and parts diagrams, I think it is a little thingy that goes under an octagonal barrel for decorative purposes, near the end of the barrel, capping off the end of the "forearm" of the pistol. Does that make any sense whatsoever?

2) How do you go about changing the nipple allignment, and how do you know when it is correct? Is it just a trial and error thing with primers?

3) I don't think this gun will be comming with any kind of owners manual or loading guide. Are there any essential books for the total newbie? Something that could tell me things like what kind of primer I will need to buy, how to tell the different types apart, what kinds of powder I should be looking at, and safe loads to try in an older pistol kit?

4) Also not sure if this gun will come with a ramrod or not. If it doesn't, is there anything that can be improvised? I had thought about some kind of hardwood dowel, as it likely wouldn't ruing the rifling or leave splinters down the barrel...

5) Caliber of the CVA tower pistol kits? What is it likely to be?

6) Bullet casting- how tough is it to cast your own bullets? Can recovered lead from the target range berm be used? Do you need a proper kiln/pot thing, or can you improvize with say a torch and/or open fire and a pan? I know I've seen Mel Gibson do it over an open fire in the Patriot, so it must be possible!

7) I am told that the CVA Tower Pistol kit didn't come equiped with sights. Now I don't know how much of the kit needs refinishing or how badly, but if I was going to strip and clean the finish away from the barrel anyway, how would you recommend going about adding sights? Can this sort of thing be soldered/brazed into place? How are iron sights traditionally attached on such a pistol?

Your thoughts on all or any of the above are appreciated. I would be particularly interested in book recomendations, although your thoughts in general are always welcome. Thanks!

 

[renovato]

Hi,
The nosecap fits on the front of the stock as you mentioned. You might be able to adapt an aftermarket one to fit. There are a lot of muzzleloader sites that sell such parts. They are usually less than $10. Depending on the stock, you might be able to get by without it also, by just sanding the front of the stock to a nice profile.

About nipple alignment. I'd wait till you get the gun and see what it really needs before you sweat it too much. If the nipple needs to go forward or backwards, you can usually turn the drum slightly to adjust it. If it needs to go right or left, you may have to adjust the lock inlet.

As for loads and caps. I'd guess that it's going to be a standard caliber like .50. CVA tends to stick to commonly available supplies. A #11 cap should be right. I don't know what their max load recommendation is, but for a .50, I bet your most accurate loads will be in the 25-35 grain (FFFG) range anyway and that should be well under max.

For a rod, a hardwood dowel is fine. Hit Dixie or Track of the Wolf to find rod ends. They're only a buck or two. It's fun making your own parts anyway.

If you're just getting into muzzleloading, I wouldn't suggest starting casting your own just yet. You can buy balls cheaply enough for now. If you find that you're shooting a lot, getting into casting is a good way to save money, but it can be a bit pricey to get involved with.

I'd say don't sweat any of this until the gun gets in. Give it a look over and come back and ask specific questions. Along with pics too! Good luck

 

[Pork Chop]

Boy are you in trouble now!!

Seriously, on Monday, call CVA. Yes, they quit making reasonable muzzleloaders, but they may still have some parts lying about. They can send you an owners manual - better than nothing! Their parts prices are super low, and the parts are factory parts, so they should fit just fine.

A side benefit is that they will see that there are still people that have the sidelocks and are interested in shooting them. Maybe they will get the hint...

 

[renovato]

I never understood why they stopped making sidelocks anyway. They had some interesting models.

 

[MSW]

welcome to the slightly eccentric world of muzzleloading! i think that thirty or thirtyfive grains of FFFG is a decent starting load, and use readily available pre-lubed patching, depending on the calibre, of course.

if you are interested in casting your own roundball, look into a Lee melting pot. this is a small gadget that uses plain old 110 volt household current, pours from the bottom, and has a tremendous guarantee. if you decide to spring for one, get a mold in the correct size, and a few pieces of hardwood stick (NEVER whack a mould with a metal object) - i've been using a hunk of firewood for years; when the firewood wears out, put it in the fireplace where it was going anyway and get another one.

do not use lead that you scrounge from the range. avoid this practice for two reasons: (1) you can't be sure exactly what the mix of metals really is- there will be various portions of tin, antimony, and quite possibly other metals, and the mix will not be even throughout the collection: (2) there will be metals other than lead (in whatever proportion) and you don't want to shoot anything other than pure lead through your barrel. (many would disagree with that notion, but it's served me well for many years). i get my lead from a scrap dealer- it's really not that expensive.

unless you shoot a good deal, take a long look at the cost efficiency of casting your own. additionally, DO THIS OUTDOORS... melting lead gives off all manner of nasty fumes (the names of which i can't pronounce) but suffice it to say that you don't want to breathe this stuff- even a little bit. once you're done casting, put everything away and go wash your hands thoroughly-- even the trace amounts of lead and other contaminants on your hands will lead to significant health problems if the ends up in your food. usually, i wear a pair of heavy leather gloves, which will keep any splashes from burning you- a nasty business leaving an ugly scar.

good luck- i hope you have a tremendous time with your new pistol.

MSW

 

[bwhoffman]

CDG,
The guys have pointed you in good directions on your acquisition!
I would throw in a stop at the library...local or at college.
Go find some books on BP.you will get a great broad overview of this stuff and clear some items up! most of these books will be older(the good ones!) and typically were based around the guns that we are using.(the cva's, t/c's lymans ect)
I have a few of these and refer to them alot.
One that comes to mind are books written by Sam Fadalia. pretty broad and gets to the point.

Brett

 

[cdg]

Wow, thanks all for the replies. I have definately entertained the idea of casting my own bullets, but I will heed your advice and not start into that right away. I thought it would be fun more from the mechanical standpoint rather then from any practical standpoint.

Great idea about calling CVA- I'll hop on that as soon as I get the gun and can get some sort of model or serial number. Getting the nosecap would be nice, but if I can't find one that suites me I'll look at how to go about smoothing out the stock in that area.

I apologize for my sluggish response- internet went down in the dorm today, and I just didn't have time to get my laptop figured out at the library.

Come Tuesday I will probably get a chance to get into the library and check out some reading on the topic, and of course keep posting here as always!

 

[renovato]

I'm browsing[url] thegunworks.com[/url] and noticed they carry a lot of parts for older CVA guns. They might have the nose cap, if CVA doesn't. Just thought I'd pass that on.

 

[Norskie]

Do not use the ball casting scene from The Patriot as a tutorial. Their technical advisors must have been asleep or off the set when he was casting balls and then dipping the mold in water to cool it. Dangerous, unnecessary, dangerous and stupid!

 

[cdg]

Do not use the ball casting scene from The Patriot as a tutorial. Their technical advisors must have been asleep or off the set when he was casting balls and then dipping the mold in water to cool it. Dangerous, unnecessary, dangerous and stupid!

Ha, yes I intended the remark to be dripping with sarcasm, but I understand the serious element not to quench the mold in water.

There's a lot of truth to movies- the problem is finding just exactly where! :haha: