Open iron sights or peep.

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Stock fit also has a lot to do with how fast either sight type works.
So does eyesight. If the "ghost ring" is too close then it's more of a ghost than a ring. If I wear my prescription glasses to see the aperture, then I can't see the target. There are tradeoffs. I'd rather have the rear sight, whether it's a notch or an aperture, farther away, even if my sight radius is reduced.
 
So does eyesight. If the "ghost ring" is too close then it's more of a ghost than a ring. If I wear my prescription glasses to see the aperture, then I can't see the target. There are tradeoffs. I'd rather have the rear sight, whether it's a notch or an aperture, farther away, even if my sight radius is reduced.
I've enjoyed good eye sight without correction my whole 73 years so I speak from this perspective only.
One principle of open sight shooting I have never been able to get comfortable with is the focus only on the front blade allowing the target to become slightly out of focus even blurred. It is impossible for the human eye to focus on both planes simultaneously and evenly but it does a pretty good job of compromise any way and I need to see both the target and front blade quite sharply to have confidence in the shot.
With aperture sights used correctly, one entire focal plane is eliminated (Rear) that the eye has to deal with.
 
I appreciate you trying to convert this old fart for something that works so well for you! Even if I were to like them, I don't hunt anything but competitive paper or novelties. All guns must be traditional. Last I heard it was "Open Sights" only.

Larry
Many competitions don't allow the stick on diopters in the open sights only. That leaves us with a wide shallow "V" rear sight and a thick blade front sight.
 
So does eyesight. If the "ghost ring" is too close then it's more of a ghost than a ring. If I wear my prescription glasses to see the aperture, then I can't see the target. There are tradeoffs. I'd rather have the rear sight, whether it's a notch or an aperture, farther away, even if my sight radius is reduced.
You're not understanding the proper use of the aperture. You do NOT look AT the aperture, you look THROUGH it! Your brain will automatically center your vision in the middle of the aperture, instantly, if the gun nfits you properly. If you attempt to focus the aperture and then center the front site, you're defeating the purpose of having an aperture sight in the first place. This is the reason that an aperture sight needs to be mounted close to the eye, NOT out on the barrel. When Williams come out with their "Twilight" aperture with the brass ring inserted into it, they did NOTHING to promote the proper use of an aperture sight!
 
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You're not understanding the proper use of the aperture.
I know how to use an aperture. And I understand how and where the focus should be and how the vision and brain work. I have at least half a dozen guns with peep sights. I'm just saying it's easier for me if the aperture is more distant. For example: the M1917 vs. the M1 below. I do better with the M1.
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My very favorite peep sight is the Skinner sight on my Henry Classic Lever, and look how far forward that is in relation to the two milsurps:
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Please don't automatically assume someone doesn't know what they're talking about, because the problem might be that you just don't understand what they said.
 
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With aperture sights used correctly, one entire focal plane is eliminated (Rear) that the eye has to deal with.
If the ring is TOO fuzzy, then it's difficult to center the front sight. While the eye isn't focusing on it, it IS "dealing with it", and if vision is degraded, then so is the dealing. You're fortunate if you're not dealing yourself with cataract onset yet. It'll probably happen. Usual natural course of events, sooner or later, for most.
 
The best thing about cataracts is - once they fix them you can see much better! I had mine done when I was 60 (16 years ago, yikes).
They say to use peep sights correctly you should be paying no attention at all to the rear sight, just the front and the target.
 
I shoot open sights in matches that require them. For 50 yard bench matches I use peep sights with adjustable aperture front and rear. For offhand any metallic sight matches I use a peep rear sight with a fine blade front sight. I like the peep on the tang close to my eye, .050 - .060 peep size.
 
I shoot open sights in matches that require them. For 50 yard bench matches I use peep sights with adjustable aperture front and rear. For offhand any metallic sight matches I use a peep rear sight with a fine blade front sight. I like the peep on the tang close to my eye, .050 - .060 peep size.
It took me a few decades to finally try a wide front blade of about .100 but after doing so I wondered why it took me so long to wise up as a wide front blade will hold/define elevation as well as windage better than a thin one on target or game.
I remember Keith preaching this but I didn't listen to that part of his sage advice for a long time. To soon old to late smart I guess! 😄
 
My issue with front sight visibility occurs in the late afternoon sunset time when there is snow on the ground. The fine silver blade that I enjoy for target shooting becomes hard to see. Recently I have been experimenting with gold faced front sights and these seem to offer improved visibility in low light. This hunting season will provide an opportunity to field test them under twilight conditions.
 
My issue with front sight visibility occurs in the late afternoon sunset time when there is snow on the ground. The fine silver blade that I enjoy for target shooting becomes hard to see. Recently I have been experimenting with gold faced front sights and these seem to offer improved visibility in low light. This hunting season will provide an opportunity to field test them under twilight conditions.
I mill out my own front sight blades from bar stock and what I've been using for the last couple of decades that has worked really well in low light is sweating on a brass top leaf and cutting a 45 degree angle off the back top corner. It will gather any available light and shows up really well. I try to keep them about .100 wide so they define elevation and windage better than do thin sights.
The square/rectangular (partridge so called) front blade will define better than any bead because almost nothing in nature and almost no targets are that shape . Should the brass tarnish over time a quick wipe with some Brasso on a pad or a couple of licks from a Swiss file and your good as new.
 

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I exclusively use a peep on all my muzzleloaders. I also use globe front sights.
In very low light in timber. Most of my shots have been very close. In those cases. I don't worry about seeing the front sight. My eye centers the rear sight. The globe is centered in the peep. I focus my eye on the spot I want to hit and let my eye center that spot in the globe. The last deer I shot this way. I shot in the neck at about 40 yards.
Where my peep sights really shine is out in the open terrain of the desert.
Use a range finder, set the sight for the distance.
The open sight shooter is aiming under or over, which is a horrible way to shoot game.
My son shot this larger buck just before dark. He settled his fine pin in the center of the Bucks white patch in its neck. He shot the buck at 175 yards. It was dark in no time.
Knowing your rifle. Knowing your sights, and practicing in the areas you hunt help make the peep sight really the best option.
 

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All I need is a simple A or B
Will a person shoot better with A open iron sights or B peep sight. Forget all the variables.
Peep for my best accuracy. A modified Tom A Hawk (forum member) peep on my Pedersoli Hawken brings home the goods. I do like the challenge of open irons though; in competition our Aussie regulations dictates opens only.

Pete

Modified Tom A Hawk.jpg
 

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