Ordered Jim’s SMR Today.

[DCAN]

That's nice. What did you finish the wood with?

1st coat was Kibler's tannic acid. After that dried, I used two coats of iron nitrate. Then I used a heat gun and the stock turned dark as coal. Then I used a maroon scotch guard pad to rub it back and expose the end grain. The pad was kept wet with a yellow stain that I think also came from Kibler's. If not then it was straight from Laurel Mountain Forge. After I got it where I wanted, I followed up with 4 coats of Tried and True oil.
Now I can't prove it, but I swear the stock has darkened over the last month. I'm seriously considering stripping it down and trying to bring out the background yellow. In direct sunlight It really looks cool. The picture was taken with overcast skies.
The barrel and hardware were browned with the Laurel Mountain Forge product. Second time I've used that and it's easy to get a great looking outcome. I did let it go a little longer than the directions said and the finish was a bit rougher than I was shooting for. Even with the baking soda scrub it has kept rusting for a couple weeks.
The pic below is right after I put on the last coat of TnT oil.

 

[Salty Cracker]

1st coat was Kibler's tannic acid. After that dried, I used two coats of iron nitrate. Then I used a heat gun and the stock turned dark as coal. Then I used a maroon scotch guard pad to rub it back and expose the end grain. The pad was kept wet with a yellow stain that I think also came from Kibler's. If not then it was straight from Laurel Mountain Forge. After I got it where I wanted, I followed up with 4 coats of Tried and True oil.
Now I can't prove it, but I swear the stock has darkened over the last month. I'm seriously considering stripping it down and trying to bring out the background yellow. In direct sunlight It really looks cool. The picture was taken with overcast skies.
The barrel and hardware were browned with the Laurel Mountain Forge product. Second time I've used that and it's easy to get a great looking outcome. I did let it go a little longer than the directions said and the finish was a bit rougher than I was shooting for. Even with the baking soda scrub it has kept rusting for a couple weeks.
The pic below is right after I put on the last coat of TnT oil.

Brother that looks great. You sound like we think the same. I would do it just like you did. Thank you for the detailed reply. Your rifle is perfect to me

 

[DCAN]

Brother that looks great. You sound like we think the same. I would do it just like you did. Thank you for the detailed reply. Your rifle is perfect to me

20/20 hindsight, I would put the yellow stain on prior to anything else. Then the tannic acid and iron nitrate. Then rub it back to a point just a "smig" lighter than I intended it to be when finished. I have nothing to base this idea on, only a gut feeling.

 

[bassncrap]

As a complete rookie to the black powder gun building world. Im a sucker for a good build log. I find I learn things quicker and helps not to keep asking the same rhetorical questions.

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

I also just ordered the Kibler SMR kit last Saturday. Will be a week or more before it arrives. I ordered the fancy maple and .40 cal. barrel. Been working on guns and restoring them for many years, but never built one from a kit before.

Shouldn't be an issue for you. Easier than an old Revell boat model. Semper Fi.

 

[bassncrap]

Shouldn't be an issue for you. Easier than an old Revell boat model. Semper Fi.

Or any old Revell Model lol

 

[williamscroggins@comcast.]

I've built a bunch of those old Revell model kits in the past!

 

[bassncrap]

I've built a bunch of those old Revell model kits in the past!

Same here. WW1 1/28 and 1/72

 

[Songwriter]

Sorry, bassn... Monogram WWII 1/48.

 

[bassncrap]

Sorry, bassn... Monogram WWII 1/48.

Monogram,revell,hawk,testors,glencoe.... all good memories lol

 

[smooth1]

I think build logs help the person building because helpful comments can prevent errors before they occur.
BTW, I'd love to get one but I can't get pass that deeply cut crescent butt. I know that is consistent with originals, but still . . . And the Woodsrunner stock has (to me) an odd "humpy" look to it. But oh my, NOT TO OFFEND. That's just me and I am weird.

Hi Mike, just reading this thread as I am considering a Kibler SMR as my first build. I agree with you mucho regarding the "humpy" look, but I wouldn't own a flinter that did not have that wonderful full cresent butt. I so wish Kibler had a SMR kit in .54, full ramrod stock, and brass hardware. Wanting those extra 3 things are greatly tempting me to do a log/Rice build, despite risking a $$$$ mistake. (Actually...should I go that route I will probably pickup a much less expensive blank and prototype on that first - it will just take a LOT longer to achieve my desired finished project.) Best from south of St. Louis.

 

[M. De Land]

Please post a few pics. I have plain maple and wanna see what it may look like once I stain it.

This one I put together from a TOTW kit which is far more technical than is the Kibler kit. I used the Winchester Red wood stain and much prefer the red high lights to the dark Aqua-fortis look.
The Tiger striping is more subtle than was expected in this stick of wood but is pretty consistent through out and kind of grows on yah and seems to darken with age.

 

[springfield art]

I totally re-finished my Lyman .54 LH GPR, including removing the half-moon butt shape!