Other shooting games??

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Nessmuck56

40 Cal.
Joined
Nov 5, 2011
Messages
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Location
New Hampshire
Just looking for some different shooting games for next years shoot. We have the "split the ball on the ax head and break two clays, cut the playing card in half, the X made from strings,where you hit the intersection of the strings and they all fall, shooting at 1/2 a target.... can you add anything to my list ,Thanks
 
One that we have done in the past requires a wooden box that has a sloped track that zig-zags from top to bottom. There is an opening at the top and the bottom. At the bottom hole is a bell. The shooter or someone else drops a marble into the top hole and the marble rolls and drops to the bottom where it rolls out of the bottom hole and rings the bell. Meanwhile, the shooter has to cock, aim and fire his weapon at the target before the bell rings. It's not as easy as it seems. The shooter knows he has only a few seconds and he can hear the marble go through the box. If you make the box tall enough or arrange the track to slow the marble's descent enough, you could require the shooter to also prime as part of the procedure. You'd be surprised at how rattled a shooter gets in this match. That's one of the reasons why we call it a "Rattle Box". Lot of fun.
 
One I have had fun with over the years is to set raw eggs at 30 or 35 yds. One shot shooter calls the the egg. If its a miss you have a iced down raw eggs close by shooter has to eat a egg or pay someone to eat his egg. Another is a 3 or 4" steel pipe cut about 8 or 10" long. Mount in a hole in plywood tape a clay or paper over back of pipe.
Set up at 15 or 20 yds. Shoot through pipe.

Mike
 
There is "snuff the candle" at 10 yards. The shooter has to put out the candle by hitting the flame but not the candle. The ball going by very close to the flame will work.

You need to have the candle in shade so most folks put the candle stick and candle inside a three sided "hutch" so the sides and top are covered, and this cuts down on wind as well. Make sure the top of the hutch is high enough that the candles don't burn it. You may need to relight the candle if you have several shooters who manage to put it out. A miss or hitting the candle, and you're out. If nobody puts it out, start again. If more than one shooter puts it out, then you start a second round with only those shooters, until there is only one. You may need lots of candles, and they need to have thick wicks to give a good visible flame.

A variation I came up with is to take a 2x4 and drill a hole just big enough to hold a birthday cake candle. Hitting the flame or the candle works in this variation. Hitting the 2x4 is a miss.

The shooter starts empty, loads, and can take as many shots as they wish to hit the tiny candle before it burns out. Depending on how deep you drill the hole = how much candle is above the 2x4. A deeper hole = less candle and less time. Birthday candles burn fast, so if you leave 1/4 of the candle showing the shooter has to move fast and gets one shot. (test the burn time the candles that you use vs. the depth as different brands burn differently). Birthday candles are cheap by the box, so this is pretty economical.

Starting unloaded allows the candle lighting person to light the candle, and get back behind the shooter with plenty of time before a shot is attempted. The candle lighter is also the person who yells "GO" when they see the candle is lit. Those that hit, if there is more than one, shoot a second round.

You can decide whether or not to move the candle back for a second round, but the time factor is usually enough with lit candles, OR for the first round leave 2/3 of the candle showing and they can shoot as many times as it takes to hit or the candle snuffs, but on the second round you have a second 2x4 with a deeper hole so it gives less candle and less time. You will need several prepared 2x4 "candle holders" as you will have folks who shoot low and destroy the 2x4.

IF it turns out to be too windy to keep the candles lit..., then simply give the shooter one shot from a loaded gun, and leave most of the candle showing above the 2x4. Those that hit the unlit candle shoot a second round. Repeat this until you have a single winner. Increase the distance if you have a good group of good shots.

LD
 
Nessmuck56 said:
Just looking for some different shooting games for next years shoot. We have the "split the ball on the ax head and break two clays, cut the playing card in half, the X made from strings,where you hit the intersection of the strings and they all fall, shooting at 1/2 a target.... can you add anything to my list ,Thanks

We shoot a turkey match from a plank rest 60 yards, 40 yards for offhand.
DSCN2650-1.jpg


P1020646.jpg

Use this target.

Turkeytarget3_zpsbe894ffa.jpg


This is a traditional match and is scored by string measure. The distance from the center of the aiming spot to the center of the bullet hole.
There is documentation from the 18th century in America that most matches were REST matches. They, for the most part, thought that off-hand shooting was a poor test of a rifle. Just like horse racing where they were not testing the jockey but the horse, they were finding who had the best rifle.
Rest shooting never really died out with MLs in America. In its "chunk" match form it lasted right to present day.
We have adopted the plank rest since we have some arthritic old farts who have trouble getting off the ground.
Also we require the shooter shoot at the target he uses for score, not off center aiming point as is common in "chunk".
I leave my sighter up and staple my score targets over it so I have a target with the group on it.
Sometimes it looks like this (this is a previous version of the target) with quite a few sighters.
P1020664.jpg

Reading the wind is critical. 10 mph can put the ball completely off the turkey at 60 yards. And we routinely shoot in 15-20 or much worse. Having to stop to put the target boards back in place.

But this is better. 12 shots total. Only one score shot missed the turkey completely.
P1030525.jpg


It also works in winter months since its not necessary to lay in the snow as the artwork from the 1870s shows. Its titled "Turkey Match at Saratoga Springs" where the artist had lived years before.

We shoot 10 shots on 10 targets each shot is a match closest center wins. Pays for winner of each match and 1st, 2nd, 3rd for aggregate of the strings.
Its possible to shoot 2-5 shots per target but if someone is shooting very well they can get hard to score.
There is a rumor that Wyoming Armory in Cody may be printing the targets


Due to some interest in the match SPG wrote up the rules this week so they are more "fixed". This is what WE use. But figure something that will work for your group. The peep sight thing is not that great an advantage. I have a very accurate rifle with barrel sights and I used sheet brass shaders to keep the sun off them and routinely out shoot peep sights. I would shoot against iron sighted inlines with this rifle so long as they shot BP and a patched ball.
P1030529.jpg


It is a lot of fun. Its low stress, well the scorer has to work, and its a traditional American rifle match. We just cannot legally use live turkeys anymore.
But we have this for a sudden death secondary match.
P1030066.jpg


Gobble, the turkey will come up then drop in 5 seconds.
P1030067.jpg

Then is goes to 3 seconds for the next round.
This is the brainchild of one of our shooters who had shot live turkey matches years ago.
Dan

Anyway the rules ala Cody.

Gentlemen,


Turkey Match Rules-

Any muzzleloading rifle, flint or percussion, any caliber, any weight, loaded with straight black powder and a cloth-patched lead round ball. No false muzzled rifles.

Any pre-1860 iron sight or faithful reproductions of pre-1860 styles or patents, shaders allowed.

Target is the black "turkey-head" with "X" centered in the turkey's head. No special sighting or windage targets allowed, all shooters use the same style of target. Shots are scored, string-measure, from the center of the bullet hole to the X center on the turkey's head. Misses are given a measurement from the X-center to the farthest edge or corner of the target. Ten one-shot matches to be fired with the aggregate string comprised of the aggregate total of the ten matches. A shooter may enter any number of matches, up to ten, with only one shot per match.

Loading to be done from the pouch. Bench boards to support the rifle during loading and cleaning are allowed. Charges to be thrown from a horn or flask. No pre-weighed charges, mechanical powder measures, tackle boxes, etc. This is a traditional match; if your loading equipment can't be carried in a typical shooting pouch, leave it home.

Distance is 60 yards for rest shooting, 40 yards for offhand shooting. Shots fired either offhand or rest will be scored equally in both individual matches and aggregate strings. A shooter may fire any combination of offhand and rest shots to make up his ten-shot string.

Rest to consist of sawhorse-style front support with inclined plank. Plank may be "V"notched for rifle muzzle with one layer of cloth or leather allowed for padding. Shooter must fire from the kneeling position with both legs free of the plank. No shooting coats, supportive devices or clothing allowed for offhand shooting.

One streamer/flag-style wind flag allowed. All shooters must be able use the same wind flag. No electronic or mechanical wind reading devices allowed.

A Shooters Jury comprised of three knowledgeable competitors, selected by the match sponsors/directors will rule on any equipment or procedure not clearly described in these rules. Documentation of pre-1860 equipment or procedures will be the responsibility of the shooter. The decisions rendered by the Shooters Jury will be final and binding for the match in question.

These competitions are meant to be a traditional-style, muzzle loading, round ball rifle match typical of the pre-1860 period. Extreme or radical interpretations of these simple, common-sense rules will not be tolerated by the Shooter's Jury.

***********
This is the way we have been shooting the matches at Cody and they have worked very well for us. I would welcome some positive discussion on them, but be advised that we have kept the rules simple for a reason. I don't want to have to craft a 100-page document covering every imaginable scenario, hence the "pre-1860 rule" and the inclusion of a Shooter's Jury. The pre-1860 rule makes folks who want to "push the envelope" provide documentation for their equipment. The good thing about that is we all learn from their efforts as to what was actually available to serious shooters prior to 1860.

I hope that I have remembered everything in this post but I'm in a caffeine-deprived state at the moment and anything is possible. I'm hoping Dan Phariss will double-check me on the rules.

Steve
 
I took a piece of 4X4, painted it black and drilled holes in it, about 3" apart, that a golf tee fits into. Put the 4X4 on a tripod, or anything solid, with the tee's facing the shooter and try to drive the tee's. Pretty small at 25 yards.
Mark
 
strike a match if you can get some strike anywhere matches and the good ole asprin on a string.
 
I look up the days around the shoot for historical events, birthdays, and death dates, then let my imagination go from there.

At my club's August shoot I made a target to commemorate the explosion at Krakatoa. It was a rough picture of the volcano, and you had to put the ball entirely within the volcano. The higher you hit on the volcano, the higher the score. Touch the lines and you get a zero.

It was also the anniversary of the last Beatles concert, so a one shot target was old 45 rpm records at 20 yards. Hit the hole in the middle for 25 points, but if you even touch the vinyl it's minus 10 points.

I didn't arrange today's shoot, but if I had it would correspond to today's equinox. I'd have made pictures of Earth, and high scores would be at or near the equator. Points would fall off depending on how many degrees of latitude the ball struck.

Your imagination can result in some great targets. Let it run wild.
 

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