paper cartridges

[BrownBear]

It would seem cartridges would be easier to handle with cold, stiff fingers and hands in the long very cold winters in the northern US and Canada as well.

I haven't followed through, but many a time while duck hunting on just those days, I've considered trying to make complete cartridges using shot rather than ball. Ought to work with the right adjustments, but my hands are warm right now. That old roof never leaks when it's not raining. :wink:

 

[Stantheman86]

Has anyone had issues with paper leaving burning embers in the bore , using paper round ball cartridges?

I have been using blank newspaper as cartridge paper but only with Minie balls. I have not tried paper patched round balls yet.

 

[tenngun]

There is another thread about it being hot and dry and not shooting to prevent a fire hazard. I’ve not started a fire with a shot except when I tried. I shot in dry broom grass. I had to shoot right through the grass near the ground to get it to light. It’s none too dry in the ozarks right now but I would be sure to take care and watch for smoke and smoldering. Cause we sure know guns started fires.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Has anyone had issues with paper leaving burning embers in the bore, using paper round ball cartridges?

Never in the bore, frankly cannot see it happening ...

 

[Stumpkiller]

Nope. The only part I leave in the bore when loading has been dipped in beeswax.

 

[Stantheman86]

What is the consensus on the round ball cartridges, I had thought the "correct" method was to bite the paper off, dump the powder, and stuff the loose "tail" end down the bore and ram the whole thing down the bore....although some methods are to flip the cartridge over after dumping the powder and inserting the ball end first.

I like the idea of putting bore butter, beeswax etc. on the ball end

 

[Grenadier1758]

I've used paper cartridges both ways. If I have lubricated the ball end of the cartridge, I insert the ball end of the paper cartridge and tear the excess paper off. I have also loaded with the empty paper down hoping that the extra paper wipes some of the fouling down the bore with the load. Doesn't always work. For lubrication of the paper cartridge with ball, I uses a mix of one part bee's wax and six parts of olive oil melted together in a double boiler. I dip the paper wrapped ball in the mix. Once the lubrication has cooled, I add my powder load. One final note: I do not prime from the cartridge when using a cartridge with ball. I carry a small flat horn to prime or use a blank cartridge as the source of my priming powder.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

I use 50:50 mix of beeswax to olive oil in warmer months, adding more oil towards colder months. The balls are not tied in per the English method, but the paper is tightly twisted right above the ball in the French manner.

On occasion I will find the ”˜empty rounded shell’ of the waxed paper cartridge that had been wrapped around the ball sticking to the target frame at 25-yards. Ususlly, for me, these are up and the the right of my point of aim and ball impact.

Regardless of where they land, this proves it is separating from the ball prior to reaching 25-yards ...

 

[Stumpkiller]

When I shot a Bess I would do the "bite and pour" and then ram the excess in behind the ball.

With my fowler I tear and pour the charge, seat the ball end thumb tight and flush and then tear off the excess paper. Then seat the ball down. Then prime from a little priming flask.

When rolling them up I dip the ball end in melted beeswax (plain & straight) and allow to dry before adding the powder. When hunting I sometimes make a wax-paper inner "cup" for the powder - but haven't bothered with that as lately I'm more apt to come in when it's raining. ;-)

 

[RAEDWALD]

I have never found any benefit from putting grease on the ball end of the cartridge. This is supported by military practice also leaving the paper dry.

The military practice of emptying the cartridge down the barrel and putting cartridge straight in ball end uppermost gives the best results I find and two firm (but not violent) blows of the rod settles the ball into a paper sabot/wad which carries it out more or less centrally.

I use genuine pre 1845 paper which pretty well shatters upon exit leaving only a fine sooty confetti. The energy of the ball seems to almost immediately leave the paper shreds to leave the ball which I secure with a fine flax line choke. 1Fg Swiss seems best in my experience (but expensive at 8 grams a shot) or cheap French Vectan Mosquet if I want to impress/annoy the gongoozlers with much smoke and fire.

 

[Stantheman86]

I don't have any Flintlocks yet but unless some wierd twist of fate unfolds and I'm using a Flintlock in combat there's no way I'm priming the pan and then putting my hands over a barrel with a primed pan and half-cocked hammer.......the one YouTube guy (marksman something) more power to him but I get the heebie jeebies watching him

I'm going to try the tail-in first method and see how that works.

 

[Stumpkiller]

The only advantage I have found is cleaning up after 10 or 15 rounds; or getting that 14th or 15th round seated. The beeswax keeps the bore crusting softer.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Use a hammer's stall to prevent discharge. It is a small leather mitt that goes on the hammer so even if it becomes struck by the cock, it won't give spark.

 

[smoothshooter]

What kind of accuracy do you get with the cartridges, and from what shooting positions?

 

[Stumpkiller]

I can do about 5" at 50 yards standing & offhand with no rear sight. "Pointing" rather than aiming.

A fixed rest doesn't help much as I have no sights to align (just a front blade). In fact, if I try to aim I invariably hit low.

 

[Grenadier1758]

If you are hitting low when you aim then you need to adjust your rear sight and see more of the barrel under your front sight.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

 

[coloradoclyde]

Interesting font change.....I wondered how you did it..so I looked...Clever, but it's hard to read.

 

[tenngun]

I don't have any Flintlocks yet but unless some wierd twist of fate unfolds and I'm using a Flintlock in combat there's no way I'm priming the pan and then putting my hands over a barrel with a primed pan and half-cocked hammer.......the one YouTube guy (marksman something) more power to him but I get the heebie jeebies watching him

I'm going to try the tail-in first method and see how that works.

I’ve done the prime and load thing with ball but safety concerns would keep me from doing it again. When I use cartridges I load and prime afterwords. I’ve only primed first when shooting blanks at demos.

 

[Stumpkiller]

If you are hitting low when you aim then you need to adjust your rear sight and see more of the barrel under your front sight.

Ain't no rear sight on a proper fowler. We point, not aim. :thumbsup:

The stock is cut for me so I am on a bird rising at 20 yards without dropping my head & neck too much.