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Paper shot cups, slit em' or not?

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TN.Frank

45 Cal.
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Feb 15, 2006
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I was going to make up some paper shot cups by rolling some printer paper around a 5/8" dowel(for a 20ga) then folding and gluing one end to make the cup. I wonder if I'll need to cut a couple slits down each side or if they'll open up without em'? What do ya'll think? :hmm:
 
would the thick paper coin rolls of the correct size be used as easily? I don't have a smoothie - yet, but it's in the near future, so a good question. I would also like to know if plastic shot cups from modern shotguns will work OK in a BP smoothie? And is there a supplier of modern slugs for shotguns that would do well in BP gun? Something like the 'wasp-waist' slugs that proclaim to be more accurate than 'forster' type slugs,or anyone makes moulds for them? :hmm:
 
TN.Frank said:
I was going to make up some paper shot cups by rolling some printer paper around a 5/8" dowel(for a 20ga) then folding and gluing one end to make the cup. I wonder if I'll need to cut a couple slits down each side or if they'll open up without em'? What do ya'll think? :hmm:
IMO, it couldn't hurt...I made mine following instructions I saw posted somewhere a few years ago that suggessted the finished shot cup should be just enough under bore size so it would burst at ignition setback...and I left the tops completely open, premeasured & precut so they would be flush with the height of the shot load I happened to be using.

I got very good pattern results that way...BUT...every now and then, like 1 out of 10 times I'd still have a "slug" go all the way to the target, so I needed to fine tune that dimension some more...maybe the slits would be the key to preventing that altogether...be interesting to hear your results.

But weighing how difficult it is for me to get an old Tom turkey's head lined up in the sights, I didn't want to take the risk of getting that rare opportunity and miss him with a "slug"...so I got my .62cal jug choked and don't use paper shot cups any more...if it was dove hunting and that happened occasionally it wouldn't matter but I just didn't want to take the risk with a Turkey
 
I thought about using a dime wrapper as a shot cup but I think that may still be too large. I think then that I'll maybe make a couple slits about half way down, that should help em' open up once they leave the bore. I just don't want shot to touch the barrel and lead it up, too hard to clean that way. I really need to get out and do some shooting and hunting, it's been so long since I've had the chance. Anyway, talk to ya'll later and thanks. :thumbsup:
 
The other alternative to slitting is to perforate them by poking a series of holes where the slits would be with a pin, this will keep them in tact while being carried and loaded but allow them to open up once fired...
 
I make mine out of post it note paper and haven't had any slugs yet. The bonus is I dont have to cut them to size, just trim if needed.They burst pretty well when seated and no need to slit them. I was having problems with thicker papers until I tried them. Good luck and have fun.
 
I have cut slits about 1/2" long in the front of the paper shot cup, 4 in all, to mimic the plastic shotcups used in modern shotgun shells. It does seem to help release the pellets early, by creating an airbrake on the cup, so that the shot separates from the cup in front of the barrel, and the cup does not follow, or blow through the pattern. ( The Airbrake is exactly what the plastic petals, created by the shotcup manufacturers when they cut slits in the cups, do in time lapse photograph. I am trying to get the same result from paper cuts.)

I am working now on changing the length of the slit to see if I can reliably tighten the pattern to a predicatable density.
 
I think you'll find the 5/8" dowel somewhat large for a 20ga, even for the open-top slit-partway-down shotcups. That'd be full bore diameter INSIDE the shot protector, or even larger for a snug bore (.615-.620"). Everyone I've read who claim success with the just-shy-of-two-wrap ones with folded ends and who also provide details said the finished shot cartridge has to be small enough for it to expand and split on firing, while still in the bore, and the numbers given consistently had the outside diameter of the shot cartridge at least several thousanths less than bore diameter. The "former" they're rolled around has to be smaller still by the thickness of four layers of the material of the material used - paper, index cards, etc.

I have not yet had consistent patterns with these but I have not experimented as much as some.

An interesting variation I recently heard about for the index-card type is to use something akin to over-shot cards rather than folded ends. This gets around the material having to tear inward through bunched/folded ends and then open up and fall away without affecting the shot charge (especially the folded-in front) - the split just has to go striaght up the side. To get them to hold securely, the end cards are made a little bit larger than the inside of the shot protector and then cupped just enough to be inserted without splitting the cylinders. I haven't tried these yet.

Joel
 
keep at it, use 30 inch brown shipping paper for patterning at 40 yards, you will need to have shot number 1,5,10,20 pattern fine before you have it...keep your targets and record the load and pattern densities, temp, shot size etc before you throw them away. you cannot remmember all this.. then vary your powder for differeing temperatures.. i use two wraps of typeing paper loaded while im shooting or hunting, no glue, and certainly nothing over the top except over shot card.. i agree the paper should split a little when loaded..(no pre cut slits have been nessesary for me.. plastic buffer in the shot will tighten patterns more.. (your muzzel velocity may be a little low for good opening..so thinner paper may work i dont know... ) as the temperature gets colder the air gets more dence and patterns start to open up quite a bit faster.. so dont assume youll have a good pattern with your 70 degree load at 30 degrees.. elevation will also give better patterns.. sea level shooters have quicker opening patterns than we do in montana... look at the weather the night before, go to your records, decide your best load for that average temp, and type/size shot your going to use that day for best results... dave..
 
Also, relative humidity is a factor in the shot patterns opening up. In fact, down to about 38 degrees, the air does become more dense, simply becuase water molecules become more dense. But below freezing, the air gets very dry, and patterns improve. So, mind the air temperature, and relative humidy when you hunt. Try to keep the shots you take closer than you know your pattern will work- say, stay at 25-30 yd. shots when you know the pattern will kill well at 35 yds.- and you should not have any problems. If a bird gets up at 35-40 yds or further, I don't even bother to lift my gun. That bird will be there to hunt another day.
 
I did some more experimenting with my .62 cal smoothbore yesterday, and tried out some post it note shot cups. I found a couple of things out. In my gun, the holes in the cups work better, and I also found taking the top off the post it note when loading also improved the pattern. With no holes and the top left on I got inconsistent results, and even saw the dreaded "slug' load, man did that make a big hole! My shot cups drop down the bore easily too, dont know if that matters or not. The other interesting thing is without a shot cup my gun shoots patterns to the left of aim, and with the cups the patterns are pretty much dead on, not sure why that is but it works for me.
 
Since they need to be underbore and a 5/8" dowel IS at bore I wonder if a 9/16" would be about right. :hmm:
 
TN.Frank said:
Since they need to be underbore and a 5/8" dowel IS at bore I wonder if a 9/16" would be about right. :hmm:
When I made mine I used a 1/2" dowel and applied 3-4 wraps of wide scotch packing tape until I reached a diameter size where a cup would just slide down the bore without any friction on the walls, so it could expand & burst
 
"But below freezing, the air gets very dry, and patterns improve.".......................................................................................... my data does not show this to be the case with my 16 gauge 42 inch barreled chambers shotgun.. .... the cold air in our homes finds its way down the steps and into the basement (with the same humidity throuout the house) becouse the cold air is heavier. the heavier cold air is the more dence.. these patterns loads im going to list here very greatly, as i was researching different loads for different types and sizes of shot for different temperatures, trying to achieve the best patterns possible..... patterns are at 40 yards in a 30 inch circle cylinder bore , i put every pattern that i could find that had data that pertained to the variance of temperature,without buffer and cups,, leaving none out that did not support my argument.... .............12-9-2000, 6-10 degrees, 5 patterns using lead and bismuth average 25 percent.......... 2-10 2001, 25-28 degrees nickleplated lead shot, 4 paterns 31 percent........ 2-5-2001, 45 degrees 4 patterns 44 percent...........12 30-2000, 33-38 degrees 4 patterns using 7 1/2 lead shot 22 percent........12-16-2000, 0 degrees, using number four bismuth 3 patterns yeild 16 percent average..........9-3-2001- 80-90 degrees one pattern using number 8 nickle plated lead shot 41 percent..........number 5 nickl plated shot, undated pattern 52 percent,,........undated load, 80 degrees,number 8 shot 41 percent pattern........ the last undated patterns are listed as best loads in my field data log that i use at these temperatures, and are unusually good and not average for a normal data curve. none of these patterns in themselves mean nothing, but they do show the trend that colder weather without using buffer or shotcups in these loads do suffer greatly the colder the weather.. most of my loads below freezing for hunting use buffer and shotcups, but some days shooting differnt powder loads with up to 10-15 patterns (each day) i would include several non cupped and unbuffered loads for a balanced data sheet.... the cold weather problem was definitly apparent shooting clays and ducks in cold weather, of course they are both tougher in cold weather and the loads are slower, (but loads can be compensated with more and faster powder).. but to continue i would not shoot clays in cold weather without buffer and cups at anything but short distance compared to summer where i dont use cups and buffer as i dont find it nesesary unless i was tryiing to shoot long distance.. .... dave..
 
roundball said:
TN.Frank said:
Since they need to be underbore and a 5/8" dowel IS at bore I wonder if a 9/16" would be about right. :hmm:
When I made mine I used a 1/2" dowel and applied 3-4 wraps of wide scotch packing tape until I reached a diameter size where a cup would just slide down the bore without any friction on the walls, so it could expand & burst

Just take the 5/8" dowel and sand it down a bit. No problem.
 
If you roll a shot cup that is a bit smaller than bore diameter the trick is to roll them so that the end stops about 1/16" before touching the initial edge. Basically, the paper is rolled completely around the dowel and just short of touching the starting edge. This seems to allow the cup to split in the bore even using stock as thick as 3"X5" note cards.
 
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