Patch Knife?

[NEW222]

Hi all again. So, I was just wondering what makes a patch knife. I do not plan on doing any re-enactments, or such. I just want a little patch knife. Anyways, I have this knife that broke, and was wondering if I could turn this into a patch knife? And if so, does anyone have any tips to do so. I have a few woodworking tools, and do like to tinker a lot, and have worked a bit with wood and such. As well, is there such thing as a better angle to put on the blade? It is currently a broken kitchen utility knife. Thank you.

 

[NEW222]

Sorry, I forgot to post the picture what I have.

 

[Elnathan]

I don't use a patch knife myself, so I can't give you any tips on edge geometry, though I imagine that any sharp edge would work.

Making that blade into a knife is going to involve either grinding the back of the blade down considerably until it can slip into a hole in the handle or (more practically) grinding it a bit to profile and then drilling holes for rivets/pins to hold the handle on. Since the blade is tempered steel you will either need to anneal it or figure out how to drill through hardened steel.

 

[NEW222]

Yes, I was actually thinking of a block of sorts with a groove for it to slip into and hold in place with rivets. Yes, I planned on drilling holes to secure it. Thank you.

 

[Bearkiller]

It just needs to be sharp. I made mine out of an old parring knife. It doesn't need to be big just to cut a patch.

 

[Don Steele]

I appreciate and commend your desire to re-purpose a broken tool.
You may very well be able to use your broken Farberware kitchen knife to cut patches at the muzzle. All it appears to need is a handle, and you'll be cutting away..!! :hatsoff: You asked about "angles" on the blade(we call it the BEVEL on the blade)...here's a coupla thoughts on that part of your inquiry.

A good patch knife will have a long bevel...think straight razor.
On the other hand, a blade that will be used primarily for cutting through tougher materials than cotton,will have a short bevel on the blade.
For cutting up chickens, or skinning and "dropping" the forelegs on cattle...I use a short bevel blade. Make no mistake, it's still VERY sharp, but the short bevel is less prone to damage and can therefore be touched up easily on a good Butcher's steel.
When cutting at the muzzle, your knife should pass through your patch material with a single smooth stroke...no "sawing" or pulling the ball back out.

 

[rijerolmon]

I agree with the long bevel, mine is beveled on one blade face only. I was told that this would minimize muzzle scratches by having the flat face down. I cut right handed so that governs the bevel. :idunno:

 

[Elnathan]

Length of the bevel is a function of blade thickness and bevel angle. Pick the angle at which you want the bevels to meet (maybe 20 degrees for a dedicated patch knife?) and let the length of the bevels be what they are going to be.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I was just wondering what makes a patch knife.

I don't believe there is, or was, any particular knife style that would be considered 'correct'. If a knife was used to cut patches at the muzzle it, most likely, was a common utility knife worn on the belt. Do wat you like. Personally, I find smaller blades more useful than big ones. And safer.

 

[ZUG]

You could make that blade into a working patch knife with some time and effort. It will be a good learning experence. The steel in those Farberware (or other low budget) knives are not the best so don't expect the edge to hold up for long. You will need to resharpen often even if just cutting cloth. The ordinary kitchen knife is made to be sharpened often to keep them sharp. Their steel is of low carbon content so that the average housewife can keep them sharp and the manufactures can keep their price's down per knife. Good luck in your endeavor :v NOTE: you can buy good quality knife blades sans handle ready to go for a reasonable price from knife maker supply houses - such as Jantz Supply and Texas Knifemakers Supply to name a few.

 

[NEW222]

Thank you all for your time, help, and replies to this question. I will be starting my endevour on Monday. I will take whatever angle it is and put a 20 on it. That is kind of what I was thinking anyways, so I did have some idea.... Anyways, stay tuned and I will update it as I go along.

 

[Artificer]

The last patch knife I made was in the late 70's. I purchased a hardened blank from Indian Ridge Traders, which I don't think they offer anymore. It was 4 inches long, about 3/4 inch wide and about 1/16 inch thick. I reasoned I would hollow grind it only on one side and use the flat side down over the muzzle of the rifle. I designed it so I would use it cutting away from my body.

I wanted a "purpose made" knife so I rounded the front down from the top of the blade to the edge. I took my time and hollow ground it on a home made snag grinder my Grandpa had made. I hollow ground the bevel from the very top of the blade spine down to the edge and then smoothed it by hand with different grits of Emory Cloth. Since the bevel was hollow ground and so long on such a thin blade, it was very easy to sharpen and yet it held the edge well.

Someone else brought up using a paring knife to make a patch knife and that also would have a very thin blade that would be easy to sharpen.

Since the 70's, research has shown virtually no examples of an 18th century knife specially designed to cut patches, so I have not made one since.

Gus

 

[jbwilliams3]

I'm with Artificer, though if you are doing later 19th century or you just like the idea of cutting at the muzzle and using a specialized patch knife... I never liked cutting at the muzzle and, like Artificer, I attempt to replicate what was done in the 18th century. If cutting at the muzzle was done regularly in the 18th century (I suspect it was not), then there was likely no widespread use of a specific knife just for cutting patches.

 

[Many Klatch]

You may have to anneal the metal where you are going to drill holes for the pins. The metal may eat up your drill bits if it's too hard. Just heat it to red hot with a propane torch and then let it cool. Protect the temper of the blade part that you will use by standing it in a glass of water up to the location of the handle.

While you are working on the handle, I recommend wrapping the blade in duct tape so you don't get sliced up. 5 minute epoxy works great for keeping handles on these little knives.

 

[NEW222]

Thank you again.

 

[Bo T]

If you are using epoxy, the holes in the tang are not that important as to fit. I have used a masonary bit with the carbide tip. I was able to cut several holes with a single bit. The pin holes in the handle are drilled with the appropriate sized bit for a snug fit. I also use 24 hour epoxy since time is not a consideration.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Most people didn't carry a dedicated knife to cut patching, it's a "new age fad" per say. The allure and glamour of all the gear really overshadows usefulness. Walk into the woods with this gadget and that gadget you'll quickly learn that all that stuff is not needed.

However, a better suited term would be that of a neck knife.

Me personally my patch knife is my 8" belt knife which does everything from patch work to skinning.

 

[NEW222]

Just an update. I have the blade ready, I have the handle in the 'rough'. I was away late last week and weekend and am now back to a late storm. So my workshop is now housing vehicles and is cold, so will be a couple of days.