Thank you, I have seen it on their website. It’s good to hear from someone who has used it.I would call it paste. It comes in a fairly large tin and I rub the patches across the top of the paste.
Thank you, I have seen it on their website. It’s good to hear from someone who has used it.I would call it paste. It comes in a fairly large tin and I rub the patches across the top of the paste.
That's what they tell me.Are you THE Mr Flintlock??
I’m thinking he means neat as in unmixed with anything.
Thanks,No I’m talking about Murphys oil soap, with nothing added, or any type of dilution
the tiny bit of moisture in the patch exposed to the powder (only the top layer of the load) doesn't affect a thing.Does it not affect the powder? Do you use a wad or anything? Newbie here…..
You can’t go wrong with mink oil, except in very hot weather if the arm has to stay loaded for a very long time.. then I use castor oil/alcohol mix.I have on hand now, Bore Butter, Mink Oil, and Go Jo. The Bore Butter I have on hand is an older can that is fairly firm. The other is in tubes and much thinner.
And indeed, there is all kinds of stuff people use for patch lube.
Is it true that your lube is the same as the stuff that was called Shenandoah something or other? I used the Shenandoah and it was great but then could no longer find it.If anyone needs Mr. Flintlock's contact me.
What ratio of beeswax versus crisco do you use?I don’t use spit since I’m usually chewing tobacco, though it probably wouldn’t hurt any. I use Track’s mink oil or my homemade beeswax/crisco mix. Both work very well.
I start with equal parts of melted beeswax and crisco. I'll then add a bit more crisco or canola oil or olive oil to then thin it some for winter use. I want it thick enough to always remain solid but thin enough to melt under finger pressure while rubbing the patch into it.What ratio of beeswax versus crisco do you use?
thanks!I start with equal parts of melted beeswax and crisco. I'll then add a bit more crisco or canola oil or olive oil to then thin it some for winter use. I want it thick enough to always remain solid but thin enough to melt under finger pressure while rubbing the patch into it.
Thanks for that information. I have a little Hopes left so I will most likely give that a try out of my Crocket rifle.I have used Dry patch Balistol and water, Hoppes BP lube and TOW mink oil all with good results. The Mink Oil and Hoppes I can tell zero difference between the two. When I am at the range I usually have a small dropper style bottle that i use to put a drop of Hoppes right in the middle of the pre cut patches that I use then rub it in with my finger before loading. I can shoot more rounds than I care to without the need to swab in my 32 while doing this.
I also recommend getting a can of Track of the Wolf's mink oil. Not only does it work great, but it gives you a baseline in getting the consistency right with homemade lubes.thanks!
Hi, it's the same as the old Lehigh Valley lube. I may be wrong but I think Shenandoah copied Lehigh Valley.Is it true that your lube is the same as the stuff that was called Shenandoah something or other? I used the Shenandoah and it was great but then could no longer find it.
Actually I received the formula from the man who started Lehigh Valley. I tried to purchase the name but that's a story for another day.@Mr. Flintlock So yours is round three. It's good stuff for sure.
The original GoJo hand cleaner is excellent patch lube.
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