Patch Lube

[Walks with fire]

I just got back from shooting my Lyman .54 Deerstalker flinter with 80 grains of Goex 3f and used Lehigh patch lube. It was wonderful stuff; little fouling and the the groups were outstanding for me. I am really starting to like that Deerstalker; it's gonna be a good shooter. I didn't have any trouble with powder bridging with the Goex for some reason. Maybe I just didn't get all the gunk scrubbed out of it or something. I am going to need more of that Lehigh lube; I like it.

 

[bpd303]

The problem with Lehigh Valley Patch Lube is that it's no longer made/sold. However from all I've read the lube made with Ballistol and water is the same thing.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

The problem with Lehigh Valley Patch Lube is that it's no longer made/sold.

It would seem that it has been resurected, there is a gent over on the ALR that claims to have aquired the original formula and is marketing it under a new name, Mr. Flintlock's bore cleaner and patch lube.

If you go to the ALR and access the classifieds section and find the thread on Lehigh Valley Lube, he is up an running with it.
www.MrFlintlock.com

I have no stake in this business venture, do not know this individual, have never used the product mentioned, just passing on some possibly valuable information to those that may utilize it.

 

[thumbs]

Hope you weren't waiting for a revelation for my patch test. LOL Absolutely low tech.

I have used WD for years for patch lube with good results. The only thing is the WD does dry out in a reasonably short period of time. I use the quick shots. I guess that is what they call them. Anyway the patch is exposed to the air until your ready to load which means it dries out. I usually just squirt it with WD and a cheap atomizer and load. No problem just playin looking for maybe something that will stay lubed for a week or so exposed to the air.

My "test" was pretty simple but kinda close to the way I hunt with my patches. I just soaked them in WD, olive oil, bees wax and a mixture of bees wax and olive oil put them on a paper towel and just let them sit. I was only lookin to see how long they, appeared, to stay lubed. They all dried out, well the straight bees wax didn't dry out but was real stiff from the beginning. The bees wax and olive oil patches are still good to go. I won't use them this year, since deer starts Monday, but after season I'll play with them and see how they shoot. The WD patches shoot great.

 

[S.Kenton]

No. I was just curious is all.....I've not used wd-40 as a patch lube. I do know it is a petroleum based lube and most generally a no no for the use of a patch lube..but I could be wrong.....

 

[coloradoclyde]

Olive oil and beeswax you can thin or thicken the mix to you likeing or the time of the year.

sometime I'm going to get up enough nerve to try and cook popcorn in it

 

[Alden]

Thank goodness you didn't say "grits." Can you imagine!?

 

[Walks with fire]

Thanks for the link AB; I really like this stuff and need to get more. As usual the stuff I like is most often hard to find.

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

Glad to help,

from all I have read about this patch lube it is highly sought after by a very dedicated group of shooters, if indeed it is as good as they say I may have to look into it.

 

[Rifleman1776]

No. I was just curious is all.....I've not used wd-40 as a patch lube. I do know it is a petroleum based lube and most generally a no no for the use of a patch lube..but I could be wrong.....

WD-40 is a pure petroleum product Not "based". And that no-no for petroleum products in an ml is pure myth.
But, there are those who are convinced both my statements are false. Each to his own. :stir:

 

[thumbs]

I hear this all the time that petro based products are a no no. Could be and I will not argue the point. I will say I have been shooting since I was a real young kid and never ever had a problem with WD. I use it for rim fire, center fire and BP. I have quite a few firearms and some from my youth and never a speck of rust on anything. The trick is to get the weapon dry and don't touch it with your bare skin. I've used it for patch lube for years and seems to shoot great. Again not saying good bad or indifferent just I have never had any problems. The reason I asked about patch lube is I would like to have a lube that will stay "lubed" longer in hunting situations. I would like to leave the rifle loaded for a few days. In the past I just relubed the patch waiting to be loaded. The one in the barrel I can't do much about. That's the reason for the question.

 

[Ken Rummer]

I wanted a lube that lasts from mid October thru mid January to cover the PA ML seasons. I don't believe any of the wet lubes would be acceptable.

I settled on Stumpy's Moose Snot, (recipe available on this forum). It uses castor oil, beeswax and Murphy's Oil Soap. Other home-made lubes made the same way use olive oil, peanut oil, crisco that produce a similar lube. Track of the Wolf sells Trapper's Pure Mink Oil in 8 oz cans and it looks about the same.

 

[Renegade Dan]

I use bees wax mixed with pure olive oil.

 

[Kylongrifle]

Beeswax and olive oil here too, though Ive used T/C 1000 many times in the past with no problems.

 

[coloradoclyde]

Grits = :barf:

 

[thumbs]

Yep I made a few as a test and they seem to stay supple for a while. I only have them sitting out for about a week but they seem the same. Of course I would have to see how they shoot but that's another story.