Patch Punches?

[coloradoclyde]

Thanks, gang.

So I read the old timers would use their knife handle to push the ball down to start it, not use a short starter. Think I'll try that and cut at the muzzle.

Make sure your knife tang isn't exposed on the butt end, or you'll be banging metal on metal.
Also keep in mind, that you are exerting lots of force with a sharp knife, if you slip the injury will be severe.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Most true! I'll "be a careful boy" at it for sure!

 

[azmntman]

Look up Ohio before ya buy on-line, I hear his are much better and likely cheaper (and "custom"). Cant go wrong :idunno:

 

[SgtErv]

I leave the sheath on for that particular operation

 

[Billnpatti]

Actually, the shape of the patch is of no significance a long as it is perfectly centered on the ball. About the easiest way to make patches is to first lube the fabric and then rip it into strips of the proper width for your caliber of rifle. Properly lubed fabric should have an oily appearance but not have excessive lube on it. As far as the width of the fabric strips, in the case of your .54 caliber rifle, just rip the lubricated fabric into strips 1 3/8 inches wide. Then fold your strip in half and cut it at the fold. Keep doing this until you have your patches all cut to the desired size. You will notice that as you fold, the fabric keeps getting thicker and thicker and harder to cut. Just separate it into smaller bundles to cut it. The final cut may have your patches being just a bit too wide, just trim them to size and you will have your square patches. I might note here that it is vitally important to have your ball perfectly centered on your patch before starting it down your bore. It can be just a bit fiddly getting it perfectly centered. That is the advantage to cutting your patch at the muzzle. But, as you said, you want to precut your patches and this is the best way I have found to do it without spending money for a properly sized punch.

 

[crockett]

I agree. The logic behind a round patch is that an equal amount of material is on all sides- versus a square patch but that assumes the ball is perfectly centered in the round patch AND all the folds of the patch on the sides of the ball are identical from shot to shot. That is a virtual impossibility. For "just shoot'n" at 50 yards the issue probably isn't that big a deal- the lube and patch thickness will be more important but cutting at the muzzle- I can't think how that could be surpassed by any other method. You need a sharp knife.

 

[ohio ramrod]

For shooting patches I firmly believe square patches are just as good as round ones, are easier to cut, and have almost zero waste.When punching round patches you have more waste, takes more time, and that means less time for shooting. For wads that is a different story; round is superior. :idunno: :idunno:

 

[coloradoclyde]

I prefer round over square patches for the simple reason that round patches are easier to center over the muzzle.

I prefer pre-cut patches to cutting at the muzzle because it is faster and simpler.

I prefer to lube my patches as needed, as opposed to pre-lubing because they don't dry out, get dirty or degrade that way.

It's a do your own thing sport, and I enjoy mixing it up once in a while....it's fun to experiment and see just how versatile your gun can be.

 

[Dr5x]

I bought a metal circular punch to create my own precut patches/
I was amazed at how much effort was required to create any useful patches with that method.
To determine what size punch you will need for your .54,

Load your rifle, cutting the patching at the muzzle, which will give you a perfect patch, fire, retrieve the patch from the ground in front of you, and you will have the precise size your .54 ball requires. Being the precise size ,any patch you punch cut in that size will be very likely to go off center when you load with it. so you maybe should get a punch that will give a patch about a half inch larger.

On the other hand you could just continue to cut at the muzzle when the ball and patching is has been pushed just below the face of the muzzle.

I can't think of a dumb thing I didn't try in my 7 or so years of experimenting. There was a method for making your own swaged balls that required great effort to create off balance balls. Then there was the Kadoody to create equal measured pressure in seating a patched ball.
Beware of anything that promises "EasY' anything

Dutch

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Thanks for the tips! I will try and do as you said and harvest a cut at the muzzle patch to study it's dimensions.

 

[M. De Land]

I think when a knife handle is used to seat the ball the flat of the handle is against the flat of the sprue. The heel of the hand hits the opposite side of the knife handle and seats the ball flush with the muzzle. There is no metal contact.

 

[Black Hand]

I've used the butt of the handle when my fingers were too cold. As I made the knife, it has a tapered partial tang with a ball-end handle which has no exposed metal.

 

[coloradoclyde]

I bought a metal circular punch to create my own precut patches/
I was amazed at how much effort was required to create any useful patches with that method.


Dutch

I can tell you where you went wrong....You bought your gadget...
My homemade patch cutter works effortlessly...

 

[James Morris]

Another option is a quilters cutting mat and rotary knife. You'll be surprised how fast you can cut a LOT of patches when you're cutting 4 thicknesses.

 

[Kansas Jake]

I too have borrowed my wife's mats and rotary cutting knife. They make quick work of cutting fabric. Most fabric or craft stores and probably wally world would carry rotary fabric knives. They would also have the mats. You might also find a mat at a garage sale etc. The mats are usually green and about 1/8" thick and come in different sizes.

 

[bigredbuddhaman]

Well, the ball is about 1/2" (assuming .50 cal) wide and you want the patch to wrap up around it and seal up against the bore and rifling, right? So a 1.5" patch should completely wrap the ball with a bit of room assuming the ball and patch aren't perfectly centered on the muzzle when the ball is inserted (some wiggle-room, if you'd like.)

 

[bigredbuddhaman]

I don't trust my math. I'd now say 1.75" is warranted.

 

[Carbon 6]

I think your original math was fine. The fabric will stretch some, but a larger patch might be preferable if using a loading block.
I use 1.25" diameter patches for both .45 cal and .50 cal. Loading at the muzzle.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

Thanks, all! I now cut at the muzzle and don’t worry about it.

 

[Zonie]

For the math geeks and anyone else interested, here's how I figure out the patch size for loading a round ball.

(r X 3.14) + D = Patch diameter. (r is 1/2 if the bore size. Divide the bore size by 2 to get r. D is the bore size).

This gives the mathematical value based on the patch being wrapped around the lower area of the ball and then extending up the bore until it is flush with the muzzle.

Using this method for a .50 caliber gun, the r value would be .50/2 = .25

Pi or 3.14 X .25 = .785
.785 + .50 = 1.285

1 1/4 is close enough to the 1.285 for what we want to do so, use a 1 1/4 diameter patch for your .50 caliber gun.
A little bit big or small doesn't matter much when it comes to patch sizes so this size patch will work fine for a .45 caliber gun too.