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Patch Punches?

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I use 1" punched patches for .40-.50, and 1.25" patches for .54-60. Arch punches can be bought from some hardware sellers (or you can make punches out of steel pipe). I buy half yards of duck, accordion fold it to about 6" wide, stitch that together (after washing) in a couple of places to stop it from squirming out of alignment, then punch through on a block of end-grain wood (the left-over cloth makes fine char). I then place the little stacks in pill bottles until the bottle is full, add my soap-and-water lube (fill the bottle, and squish the stack a few times to completely saturate the patches) when I prepare for the range, I remove whatever patches I think I will need for the day, squeeze the excess water out, put them in a cap can to keep them moist, and good to go. I usually punch out a half years supply at a time, and store them dry for longer periods.
 
For the math geeks and anyone else interested, here's how I figure out the patch size for loading a round ball.

(r X 3.14) + D = Patch diameter. (r is 1/2 if the bore size. Divide the bore size by 2 to get r. D is the bore size).

This gives the mathematical value based on the patch being wrapped around the lower area of the ball and then extending up the bore until it is flush with the muzzle.

View attachment 21089

Using this method for a .50 caliber gun, the r value would be .50/2 = .25

Pi or 3.14 X .25 = .785
.785 + .50 = 1.285

1 1/4 is close enough to the 1.285 for what we want to do so, use a 1 1/4 diameter patch for your .50 caliber gun.
A little bit big or small doesn't matter much when it comes to patch sizes so this size patch will work fine for a .45 caliber gun too. :)
Hey Zonie, Thank you for this! All the best, Rodgers Ranger
 
For folks who don't quite have a good understanding of how to convert a mathamatical formula into action, if a person has a cheap modern calculator, here's how to calculate a patch size. I'll give it in keystrokes for a .50 caliber rifle:
Poke the keys in this order. Include the times sign (X) , the plus sign (+) or divide sign (÷) and the equals sign (=) as shown. When you poke one of these signs, the calculator will do any previously entered operation all by itself:

3.14 X .25 + .50 =
If you try this, your answer should be 1.285

If your working with a caliber that isn't easy to figure the radius of like a .54, let your calculator figure out the radius first.
Your calculator can do this if you change the keystrokes to:

.54 ÷ 2 X 3.14 + .54 =
If you try this, your answer should be 1.3878

Of course you don't need an answer out to the ten thousandth of an inch like that one so just using the first two numbers after the decimal point will be more than good enough for figuring out the size of a patch. With this in mind, that 1.3878 would be 1.39 or just a little bit larger than 1 3/8" and 1 3/8" would be good enough.
 
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For folks who don't quite have a good understanding of how to convert a mathamatical formula into action, if a person has a cheap modern calculator, here's how to calculate a patch size. I'll give it in keystrokes for a .50 caliber rifle:
Poke the keys in this order. Include the times sign (X) , the plus sign (+) or divide sign (÷) and the equals sign (=) as shown. When you poke one of these signs, the calculator will do any previously entered operation all by itself:

3.14 X .25 + .50 =
If you try this, your answer should be 1.285

If your working with a caliber that isn't easy to figure the radius of like a .54, let your calculator figure out the radius first.
Your calculator can do this if you change the keystrokes to:

.54 ÷ 2 X 3.14 + .54 =
If you try this, your answer should be 1.3878

Of course you don't need an answer out to the ten thousandth of an inch like that one so just using the first two numbers after the decimal point will be more than good enough for figuring out the size of a patch. With this in mind, that 1.3878 would be 1.39 or just a little bit larger than 1 3/8" and 1 3/8" would be good enough.

Or you could just multiply the caliber ( in inches) by 2.57

I think that works.
 
Wait a minute. If I carry the hypotenuse to the tangent of the arc-sin and add two dashes of cinnamon and a sprig or rosemary . . .

e1tRv2R.jpg


Oh heck, I'll just cut at the muzzle or put the patched balls in a loading block.
 
I have taken old hole saws and ground the teeth off and used them to cut patches. Chuck it in a drill press, fold my ticking several times and back it with a block of wood and cut them rather quickly.
 
I know how to do many things and could make stuff or fabricate things, but I'm lazy. I buy stuff that I could make if the situation warrented it. My patches all come from Sportsman's Warehouse or some such place. I will lube the patches myself. I think a lot of us are like this.
 
Cut on the muzzle
Cut square
Austrian military rifles used precut triangular.
Load a shooting block first
Buy precut from a supply house, their pretty cheap.
Been doing this forty five years now never had a punch
IMHO its a gimmick you don’t need.
 
Cut on the muzzle
Cut square
Austrian military rifles used precut triangular.
Load a shooting block first
Buy precut from a supply house, their pretty cheap.
Been doing this forty five years now never had a punch
IMHO its a gimmick you don’t need.

But Tenn, I like round patches, and I like making them. :D
 
But Tenn, I like round patches, and I like making them. :D
You know I’ve seen folks that won’t run ball , as you can buy them in any size you want, but I enjoy running ball, often do it in back yard over my brazier.
If’n you like punching out patches then that’s the only excuse you need.
 
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