Patches Keep Coming out Brown

[tenngun]

Also keep in mind bore butter browns on exposure to air after a few days, lard or mink oil also will color.
Valve grinding compound works to clean a lightly rusted bore pretty quick.

 

[coloradoclyde]

Also keep in mind bore butter browns on exposure to air after a few days, lard or mink oil als will color.
Valve grinding compound works to clean a lightly rusted bore pretty quick.

Yep!...Many oils and preservatives turn brown or are brown to start with....But, The trained eye can tell the difference between them and rust.

Using lapping compound or 0000 steel wool will remove rust, but it also creates bare/ virgin metal which is highly susceptible to rusting.

I used Pyrodex exclusively for 20 years before I switched to the real stuff (it is good powder but,)....It is more corrosive, which means you have to be all the more diligent at cleaning, preserving and checking.

Best advice I could give anyone regarding muzzleloaders, is to learn to love cleaning them first and shooting second.

 

[tranders]

"Learn to love cleaning them first and shooting second" is the best advice I have heard. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

 

[smo]

Was the gun new when purchased?

Some barrels come with a cosmoline protectant internally,

it needs to be completely removed prior to shooting.

Carburetor or brake cleaner will do the job, just keep it off any wood surfaces.

I’m a Barricade fan myself, I’ve had guns stored for 7 to 8 years in a safe using Barricade and a Golden Rod without any issues.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I would use J-B Paste before steel wool.

No sense removing any more of the rifling edges you paid good money for than necessary; unless you are tearing patches.

 

[bud in pa]

If you can find it Lehigh Valley Lube has given me and a friend very good protection. I have left my gun uncleaned for a month after deer season, after I shot a deer, with no ill effects. I only use Goex. My gun was a Pedersoli, I have no idea what steel is in the barrel.

 

[Archer 756]

:v G96

 

[Loyalist Dave]

DITCH IT. Use warm water and few drops dish soap if ya wanna add it. Clean till clean then DRY way past til dry then use WD-40 to make sure moisture is gone then use yer oil, or as Clyde said (he has been known to have a good idea before) use a preventative like Barricade

What he wrote :thumbsup: /\ /\

Don't omit the drop or two of something like Dawn, it helps reduce surface tension allowing water to penetrate better, and if you're using grease instead of spit-lube, it helps there too.

I have used Sheath which is now improved and called Barricade, and it works well. WD-40 will work. I have also tried and still use 2 parts ATF fluid, 1 part STP, and 1 part Marvel Mystery Oil, and that works too.

I've also used soaped water, alcohol, and then two parts beeswax one part olive oil, but you must ensure you have a dry barrel, and then go back once a day for two more days to ensure you haven't trapped any moisture.

LD

 

[tenngun]

If you can find it Lehigh Valley Lube has given me and a friend very good protection. I have left my gun uncleaned for a month after deer season, after I shot a deer, with no ill effects. I only use Goex. My gun was a Pedersoli, I have no idea what steel is in the barrel.

BritSmootie recorded some time of shooting and hunting sans cleaning. And the dry west ain’t the same as the humid east. However I find it easier to prevent rust then remove it. It’s easier to clean a touch hole or vent then suffer a misfire. Clean cures 3/4 of the problems people have when shooting ml.
I click my seatbelt every time I drive., I ain’t had to use it.

 

[coloradoclyde]

However I find it easier to prevent rust then remove it. It’s easier to clean a touch hole or vent then suffer a misfire. Clean cures 3/4 of the problems people have when shooting ml.

AMEN!.... :thumbsup:

Some people think they can get away with being lazy when it comes to cleaning, and they may for a time or two, but eventually you will pay the price.

Rust is metal....when you remove rust, you are removing metal.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Here's a test of several different types of rust preventatives, the results I'm sure are known to a lot of folks. He doesn't test some of the suggestions mentioned in this thread.

LD

 

[zimmerstutzen]

In Pennsylvania, real black powder is available many places and there is no advantage to Pyrodex. I have several quarts of old WW2 US Army bore cleaner. After shooting at a match with real black powder, I can soak the barrel well with the bore cleaner and wipe it clean. The barrel will keep over night until I can drive a couple hours home and clean the next day. Never had any problem with rust and black powder using this routine. Once with Pyrodex and the next day the bore was nearly ruined. Now if you don't travel and have the luxury of hot water on site, etc, I suppose there is no problem with pyrodex. But given the lack of problems with real black powder, I'll stick with real black every time.

 

[rodwha]

I had read of a couple of SASS shooters who had claimed to have easily gone days before cleaning so after an all day range trip with several guns I figured I’d give a quick wipe of my rifle and get to it in the morning after shooting Pyrodex. What a mess!

Someone meantioned if this ever is an issue to use an oil such as Ballistol to let soak into the fouling which will keep moisture from being able to do. I tried this with my two revolvers leaving them in the garage. Worked quite well.

 

[Scota4570]

There are many good rust preventers. I like fluid film. I don't claim it better than, or best, just very good. It does not smell bad and doesn't not bother my hands. The active ingredient is lanolin. Best of all it is easy to find at the local auto parts.
https://www.fluid-film.com/

I used to use a lot of LPS-3, it is more expensive and more goopie. It does not seem to work any different that fluid film. For really long term storage it may be better, it dries like cosmoline.
https://www.thehulltruth.com/sport...m/123560-test-corrosion-inhibitor-sprays.html

The above is another anti corrosion test, they liked LPS-3.

 

[coloradoclyde]

For years I struggled/suffered with cleaning....A laborious task that if you didn't do it right or right away you paid the price with rust or misfires.....

I've now adopted the practice of cleaning immediately after each shot....It couldn't be easier and I couldn't be happier.

 

[fleener]

if you need to running something up and down the bore to clean out rust, try copper scrub pads. Chore boy is one brand that I can get locally. Softer than steel wool.

I also use G96 and Fluid Film. Very much like both.

Oil is cheap. I use a lot of it.

Fleener

 

[tenngun]

If your gun is dirty oil won’t stop the rust, you need to have the metal clean before you oil.

 

[rodwha]

It will for a period of time. It soaks into the fouling and doesn’t allow moisture in. It was recommended to me and I tried it. Granted at some point in time it will likely fail, but it can give one the opportunity to take care of it at a later time such as with one who bagged a deer and won’t be home until tomorrow or some such.

 

[KingTut]

My father owned a gun store. We used nothing but G96, inside and out. Then and now, 60 years later, never any rust problems.

When WD40 came out, dad tested it against G96. He took two clean shotgun barrels, coated one with G96 the other with WD40. Put both barrels in a wet chamois gun case and left them for three months. The WD40 barrel was rusted badly, no rust on the G96 barrel.

I am just starting with black powder rifles so I have no long term experience but initially I will be using G96 inside and out.
It will be interesting to see the effects of Black Powder on G96.
YMMV.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

Anyone that uses or recommends oil based products in a muzzle loader is wrong.

As any chemist, black powder is water based (yup made with water).
You add oil into burnt powder you WILL get sludge, your next rounds will get stuck, and you will not be having fun. Ive been going to rondies since the 70s, and every year I give the same cleaning class.

I use the Number 13 and Bore butter also. An over abundance of bore butter (made with tallow) with (A) cake the plug, turn brown, and if enough is in there, melt under firing and clog your priming hole. Been there, done that.

I clean my barrel, then wait a few days for it to get good and dry, then add a very light coat of bore butter.

TC 1000+ is the best stuff on earth of a black powder bar.
The rest is counter productive.