Someone recently told me you should wash your pillow tickling before cutting patches. So with that in mind, when purchasing pillow tickling from a store do you measure the thickness before of after washing it? Meaning if I need size .015 or .018 patches do I measure it in the store or after I've washed it? If after, what size should it be in the store?
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Patching Size...
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Measure in store, wash it, measure again and shoot it. The ticking that shoots the tightest groups without hurting you during loading is the one to go with.
I just measure w/ a mike in the store. After washing I don't measure, but just load and "feel" if they're the right thickness. The "spread" of the groups verifies if the patch thickness and powder charge are indeed "right" for my rifle. I tend to use patch thicknesses that are on the tight side...the "big" powder charges that are used for big game hunting loads like tight patching.
My extremely accurate .45 cal. squirrel rifle was so easy to ascertain the patch thickness and powder charge that it was simply amazing....up to that time I was into CF bench rifles which can be much more "finicky".
For starters, patch thickness can be calculated.....bore groove dia., projectile dia., and req'd patch thickness to obturate the grooves plus somewhat more thickness to ensure a complete seal.
It's apparent that many bbls being produced today have excessive groove depth and are difficult to "seal" w/o causing hard loading. My choice for groove depth would be .010-.012.....Fred
My extremely accurate .45 cal. squirrel rifle was so easy to ascertain the patch thickness and powder charge that it was simply amazing....up to that time I was into CF bench rifles which can be much more "finicky".
For starters, patch thickness can be calculated.....bore groove dia., projectile dia., and req'd patch thickness to obturate the grooves plus somewhat more thickness to ensure a complete seal.
It's apparent that many bbls being produced today have excessive groove depth and are difficult to "seal" w/o causing hard loading. My choice for groove depth would be .010-.012.....Fred
Billnpatti
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Pillow ticking is a relatively "hard" cloth meaning that it feels hard to the touch when compared to a softer fabric such as muslin. Therefore, the thickness will not change all that much after it is washed. You can expect a couple thousandths increase in the uncompressed measurement but the compressed measurement should not change all that much. Just measure the fabric in the store and then wash it and re-measure it. You will find only a slight difference and likely it will not be enough to make any difference.
If you were using a fabric such as the one that I use which is 100% cotton drill, it does change in thickness after being washed but the compressed measurement does not change too much. The result is that the washed fabric will compress well in the bore and make a good seal.
If you were using a fabric such as the one that I use which is 100% cotton drill, it does change in thickness after being washed but the compressed measurement does not change too much. The result is that the washed fabric will compress well in the bore and make a good seal.
Measure in store so you will know what you are getting. After the fact would not be of much help. Of course, if it works, it works. If not, use for shop towel and look for something else. And, yes, I was before use.
It might change size, depending on the shrinkage, which is caused by the fibers contracting, and shortening in length, which may make the fabric measure out a tiny bit thicker.
LD
LD
To wash out the sizing the put on the material. Something they put on it to make it store longer.
A bit of digging told me the sizing is put on the warp yarn/threads to make it smoother, give it some additional strength, reduce static electricity. reduce the friction between the threads and to reduce the fuzziness.
All of these things help the weaving process.
I suggest that if you want to remove the sizing, you should wash and rinse the material by hand in a bucket.
If your bound and determined to use a electric washing machine, figure out some way of keeping the loose threads at the edges of the material from coming loose and plugging up your machine or its drain pipe.
Paying a plumber to snake out your drain pipe or an appliance repairman to unplug your washing machines pump can add significantly to the cost of your shooting patches. :hmm:
By the way. None of those reasons for using sizing was on my "guess list" and my guesses weren't on the actual reason list either.
All of these things help the weaving process.
I suggest that if you want to remove the sizing, you should wash and rinse the material by hand in a bucket.
If your bound and determined to use a electric washing machine, figure out some way of keeping the loose threads at the edges of the material from coming loose and plugging up your machine or its drain pipe.
Paying a plumber to snake out your drain pipe or an appliance repairman to unplug your washing machines pump can add significantly to the cost of your shooting patches. :hmm:
By the way. None of those reasons for using sizing was on my "guess list" and my guesses weren't on the actual reason list either.
I don't but you use a knife.
Years ago, when I started cutting my own patches from pillow ticking I also bought several different sized "hole saws at my local Home Depot.
By grinding off the saw teeth and sharpening the remaining edge I ended up with some patch cutters.
Mounting one of these modified saws in my drill press, it's easy to cut hundreds of patches by cutting thru stacked layers of cloth and using a soft pine board to back up the material.
By grinding off the saw teeth and sharpening the remaining edge I ended up with some patch cutters.
Mounting one of these modified saws in my drill press, it's easy to cut hundreds of patches by cutting thru stacked layers of cloth and using a soft pine board to back up the material.
