patterned the Pietta S/S today--results & issues

[azdonw]

Well I made it out to pattern the S/S in the desert today (and found out where everyone goes to shoot and ride ATVs on Black Friday!
I patterned my Navy Arms Pietta S/S: Link
Here is the load I am pretty happy with for quail: 1-1/4 oz #8 lead shot, 77 gr (60 gr by weight) 777, BP multimetal shot cup, 339 out of 512 pellets in 30" circle @ 30 yards:

Then there was this. Looks like a turkey load!...but there was a problem--my ram rod end evidently got stuck in the shot cup (I was using tape to hold in the over-shot card to make a cartridge of sorts, and this happened). See the big hole in the middle:

Here is the rod. Turns out they merely glued on the tip. Any idea of the best way to fix it?

 

[wvbuckbuster]

Buy another tip. Clean the old glue off the end of the ramrod. Re-glue then drill a hole and pin it. Won't come off then. Dan.

 

[azdonw]

Thanks, Dan. What do you use to pin the tip?

 

[Lorne Johnson]

Brass brad and cut the ends off.

 

[Dphar]

Use JB Quick epoxy from Wally World or auto parts store.
Clean off the old glue and see how the new tip fits make sure it contacts the shoulder on the rod. If its tight file a small flat to allow excess glue to escape. Now rough the inside of the new tip with a file or coarse sand paper and use a small stick rub the glue against the interior and on the surface of the rod contacted by the tip.
Install it with the epoxy, use enough so some squeezes out, it will set quickly 5 minutes if its mixed properly and well, then drill and pin it. 1/16" pin is plenty large and there are finishing nails that are close to this size at hardware stores. Don't use cheap epoxy. JB Weld or JB Quick are good quality stuff. Some of the others are not.
Track of the Wolf has rod tips.

Dan

 

[azdonw]

So do you epoxy the pin in, too?

 

[ApprenticeBuilder]

So do you epoxy the pin in, too?

Ideally you would counter sink the holes for the pin and then peen the pin material to fill the counter sink area and then file flush

 

[azdonw]

Cool!

 

[azdonw]

Interestingly, there was a noticeable delay before the 777 ignited--something I've never noticed with my inline rifle or shotgun. But it fired every time without cleaning. I installed Hot Shot nipples and used Remington "40% hotter" caps.

 

[ohio ramrod]

A number 1 center drill is ideal for starting and countersinking holes for 1/16 brass brads pins. :hmm:

 

[Lorne Johnson]

Interestingly, there was a noticeable delay before the 777 ignited--something I've never noticed with my inline rifle or shotgun. But it fired every time without cleaning. I installed Hot Shot nipples and used Remington "40% hotter" caps.

I had the same issue with 777 in my SxS. Worse, the delay is not consistent. I now use real Black Powder (different world). You may be okay with 777 on Turkeys, but I can't imagine it on Quail, or any other wing shooting.

 

[BillinOregon]

AZ, just have to say your Pietta is delivering some fine patterns. If she were mine, I would consider developing loads using more traditional wad components and black powder, just to know she could "get her done" the old-fashioned way.
But that's just me.

 

[BrownBear]

I had the same issue with 777 in my SxS. Worse, the delay is not consistent. I now use real Black Powder (different world). You may be okay with 777 on Turkeys, but I can't imagine it on Quail, or any other wing shooting.

Never tried 777 in mine, but that's a fair description of mine after 5 or 6 shots with Pyrodex. Swabbing after every three shots pretty well solved it, but that means taking a break during hot action, as well as carrying the right stuff to do it.

I concur with how well real black cleaned that up. Even with my preferred 1f, I haven't had to swab. I'll "preface" that with saying that my wad column also includes a lubed fiber wad to keep fouling soft PLUS a tight fitting Type A card between the fiber wad and shot (which is really stiff and 1/8" thick). The Type A does a great job of scraping soft fouling from the bore as you seat each new load. I never found a combo that really scraped the bore with Pyro, but if you did you could probably overcome the fouling issues without swabbing.

 

[azdonw]

Thank Green, Bill, and BB. My wife may have my head if I keep spending money on this stuff! I'm just trying to use items I already have. I may be able to get Goex at Bass Pro, but it is $25! Not many other places sell it. Then I'd have to get some true 12 guage wads and over shot cards. The ones I have are 13 guage. The 13 card actually fits inside the shot cup and spreads the pedals against the barrel, making it stay put.

 

[azdonw]

The delay I'm getting is VERY slight, and it seems consistent to me--shot to shot. It happens whether the barrel is dirty or clean. I'm just used to my 209 primed guns going bang immediately.

 

[BillinOregon]

AZ: Circle Fly will have exactly the wads you need, including the thin 11-gauge overshot wads that will give you a snug fit.

 

[Britsmoothy]

The delay I'm getting is VERY slight, and it seems consistent to me--shot to shot. It happens whether the barrel is dirty or clean. I'm just used to my 209 primed guns going bang immediately.

Pyrodex and other subs can be somewhat harder to ignite than BP...I open my nipples to 1mm (.040")and got super fast ignition with Pyrodex when it was all I could get.

B.

 

[azdonw]

Brit, I just may try this. I just need to find a #60 drill bit.

 

[azmntman]

what choke is yer new ss?

 

[Britsmoothy]

Find a few! They break easy!

B.