Pecatonica Thompson Stock

[RJR]

I am considering getting a Pecatonica Thompson Center Full Stock in plain maple to replace the walnut half stock on my early Lyman Trade Rifle. The maple stock is supposed to be considerably lighter in weight than the walnut stock. The problem I have with my rifle as it is, is that I have arthritis in my shoulders and the weight of my rifle with a GM replacement barrel is too much to hold on long shooting sessions. I have the L&R RPL flint lock as the Lyman lock wore out and I have the Davis Deerslayer trigger as the Lyman trigger wore out. Now the questions. I really like shooting this rifle as it is quite accurate. Is it worth while changing the stock to lighten the rifle? On this stock, is it appropriate to stay with wedges or should I pin the barrel? How much lighter could I expect the stock to be? I'll be asking other questions as I come up with them. Here's the link to the stock: http://www.longrifles-pr.com/thompsoncenter.shtml
Thoughts/Ideas?

Rick

 

Rick,
not much sure how much lighter it will be as I used the replacment stock in Walnut. It is a great stock and there is plently of meat left on the forearm so you can thin it way down to lighten it. Mine was a .50 and I replaced the barrel with a .54 and that lighted it up as well.

 

[Coltsmoke]

I have replaced my TC Hawken stock with a Pec. Maple stock and it was a lot of work. I really didn't pay any attention to the difference in the weight of the two stocks. I did it to have the look of the curly maple. There is no way I would go to that much trouble without going ahead and getting the curly maple stock. I don't think the difference in the weight alone would be worth all the work. Now if you just want to work on your rifle and don't like the look of the curly maple, then go for it, it was a lot of fun, but it will be a lot of work.

 

[RJR]

One of the things I want is it being full stock. Barrel, lock and triggers are upgraded, the only thing left to change is the stock, trigger guard and butt plate (which I will change with the stock). I've never fancied curly maple, just plain and functional. Should I pin or use wedges on the full stock?

Rick

 

I pinned mine. But I liked the early look.

 

Here are some pics

 

[RJR]

What butt plate is that you used? That's the style I want to use except in steel. Looks good. Did you go from a walnut stock to a maple? What kind of weight difference? Did you solder or dovetail your under lugs? How close was the pre-inlet stock. Any more info or hints would be appreciated.

Thanks, Rick

 

What butt plate is that you used? That's the style I want to use except in steel. Looks good. Did you go from a walnut stock to a maple? What kind of weight difference? Did you solder or dovetail your under lugs? How close was the pre-inlet stock. Any more info or hints would be appreciated.

Thanks, Rick

The butt plate was just a piece of 1/8" flat brass stock. The wood was cut to shape and then the brass was annealed and peened to shape while holding it to the stock. The stock on the original was walnut and the one I bought from Pecatonica was Walnut as well. It is a little heavier than a half stock, but I could probably thin the stock some more and lighten it up some. But to be honest the weight difference was, maybe just a couple of lbs. Staples from TOW were actually used for the under lugs as they were on hand. They're easy to install and they hold great. The stock is probably 85 - 90% inlet. It's definitely not a drop in and you will need inletting black or lamp soot. As I said earlier, once everything is in, there's plenty of wood left to thin it down along the forearm to lighten it.

If you don't have Peter Alexander's book, I would recommend that as well the APV video Building the Jim Chambers kit with Ron Ehlert.

One thing to know is it's not uncommon for the blank to come with a little bit of "twist" in the forearm. What I mean to say is the stock is not perfectly straight. Mine was out by about 1/2 inch. I know some guys don't like that but it's really no big deal. Once the barrel is in, the stock will snug up to it and any light twisting straightens out.

Mark

 

[BrownBear]

Here's a question for those who've handled the stock:

Is the tang on the list of things already inletted?

I've got a TC with a custom barrel and fixed tang, for which I'm considering a restock. I'm yet to compare it with a standard TC tang, but if it's different I don't want to buy the stock and discover lots of daylight in the tang inletting.

 

Here's a question for those who've handled the stock:

Is the tang on the list of things already inletted?

I've got a TC with a custom barrel and fixed tang, for which I'm considering a restock. I'm yet to compare it with a standard TC tang, but if it's different I don't want to buy the stock and discover lots of daylight in the tang inletting.

Partially inlet. I'm sure if you called them they could leave that out. Dick was very accommodating.

 

[BrownBear]

Good news! Thanks.

This one started life as a 15/16" Hawken, but was retroed for a tapered 1 1/8" x 15/16" 58 cal barrel with a fixed tang and drum bolster. The cheek piece was dished out as well, but taken too far for my face. The wood's thinner than I like in a few spots, so I figure I can probably start with a 1" stock and rectify all that (The barrel is 1" at the forend cap, which has already been hogged out for the barrel).

It's a great gun already, but I figure I can improve it a bit.

 

[mazo kid]

Rick, how can you call it a Lyman Trade Rifle...I mean the only thing original will the trigger guard and butt plate!! :rotf: :wink: It has become a DeadDawg rifle. Sorry to hear about your arthritis; as I have advanced in age, several of my joints have become affected too. Some comes and goes, some seems to move around.