Pedersoli Breech And Tang Gap Help
- Thread starter Leadriver
- Start date
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J B Weld would be ok, but any good quality epoxy material would work. You can dye it, and also mix fine sanding dust from other gunstocks in the epoxy, to kind of reinforce it.
I just recently built a Pedersoli Penn Rifle flinter kit .50 cal, and did the whole barrel.
Just be sure to use a good release agent. I don't know what to recomend for that because I use exclusivly Brownells spray can release agent. It works on evry epoxy I have used. I get it at Track of the Wolff, as they have a good price on it.
If you are going to use Brownells Acra-Glass, I suggest the "Gell" type, as it has a longer working time, and is easier to mix (1to1) and, work with, because its not so runny. Its the kind in the green box. TOW sells it also.
Good luck, its not a hard job. It will make the rifle more consistant.
Dave
I just recently built a Pedersoli Penn Rifle flinter kit .50 cal, and did the whole barrel.
Just be sure to use a good release agent. I don't know what to recomend for that because I use exclusivly Brownells spray can release agent. It works on evry epoxy I have used. I get it at Track of the Wolff, as they have a good price on it.
If you are going to use Brownells Acra-Glass, I suggest the "Gell" type, as it has a longer working time, and is easier to mix (1to1) and, work with, because its not so runny. Its the kind in the green box. TOW sells it also.
Good luck, its not a hard job. It will make the rifle more consistant.
Dave
tgfrench
40 Cal
lots of tape, plenty of johnson's paste wax, and Playdo to fill around the lock. I split plastic drink straws cut to length in any screw holes to keep them from getting filled with epoxy. Did i mention lots of paste wax
There is no shame in using bedding epoxy to fill in the gaps. That is probably the best way to go anyway. Otherwise getting another stock would be good option. Though using thin vernier wood glued in place and getting it all fitted again would work as well.
Glass bed. Just do it
I suspect many gunsmiths from the misty past would have appreciated a dab of bedding compound from time to time. Don’t beat yourself up, everyone here has something they wish they could have done better.
Rich Wormington
Pilgrim
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I would use some acuraglass with a little dye.
"I am a VERY picky gunsmith and if it doesn’t suit me I’ll keep doing something till it does no matter how long it takes or the cost."
"No I spent way to much time on this to start over. It’s a Pedersoli Scout."
A very picky picky gunsmith that is more concerned with quality than time or cost knows exactly what to do. A not so picky gunsmith looking for a quick fix has many options.
"No I spent way to much time on this to start over. It’s a Pedersoli Scout."
A very picky picky gunsmith that is more concerned with quality than time or cost knows exactly what to do. A not so picky gunsmith looking for a quick fix has many options.
That’s because our small game season came in today and I’m getting antsy…
tgfrench
40 Cal
I'm just going out on a limb here and suggest that a large segment of purchaser of lower end kit guns are not talented nor experienced gunsmiths. Lacking the experience and talent of others we made mistakes that others wouldn't, but we did. Now we are doing our best to have a functional and worthy gun.
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Sir, if you are a fellow 'smith, epoxy in a piece of walnut or maple (what ever you got), and re-inlet the back of the barrel and plug. Dye the epoxy to match, as we do, a little darker than your wood. Add enough thickness wood to give you something to carve on. Avoid thin shims or veneers. Slot your
tabs or underlugs to allow for relocation which should be minimal, if at all. Under the barrel, I like to use maple tongue depressors for shims. They are
fairly hard, and take alcohol stains very well. Trim to size, epoxy them in and scrape to a fit. Just like you would do for a good customer who messed up his build. Do not use JB weld. The metal color sticks out like rat turds in a sugar bowl. The wood JB will not stain, and even Brownells epoxy color additives come out very light.
Just keep your glue off of the finished wood with masking tape. This should only take you a couple of hours not including drying time.
tabs or underlugs to allow for relocation which should be minimal, if at all. Under the barrel, I like to use maple tongue depressors for shims. They are
fairly hard, and take alcohol stains very well. Trim to size, epoxy them in and scrape to a fit. Just like you would do for a good customer who messed up his build. Do not use JB weld. The metal color sticks out like rat turds in a sugar bowl. The wood JB will not stain, and even Brownells epoxy color additives come out very light.
Just keep your glue off of the finished wood with masking tape. This should only take you a couple of hours not including drying time.
