• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Pedersoli Frontier

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I have a couple of them, one in .45, the other .54. I have nothing but good things to say about them, especially at the price they sell for (or used to anyways). Just a couple of upgrades I did that were cheap. Threw away the cheap "dowel rod" that it came with, replaced it with hickory. Replaced the hard to see, way too thick front sight with a thin German silver blade. Drilled the touch hole out slightly to 1/16", that has given me 100% ignition when the pan powder goes off, which is most every time. (When I'm at the range, I sometimes let my flints get too dull) Finally I removed the plastic looking factory finish, replacing it with boiled linseed oil.

Is it as good as a custom gun, aesthetically. Nope. A little front heavy, but I got used to that. LOVE the easily removed barrels for cleaning, not authentic I know. As accurate and reliable as any flinter I've personally seen, including high dollar custom jobs. Not scared to take them hunting, as I might be with a entry level custom flint that cost 5 times as much. Mine were quite cheap, I know they cost a lot more nowadays.
I would love to see how your refinished stock turned out. I am considering doing the same with my .54
 
Hmmmm I shoot mostly in the bright sun. So maybe just file down the iron sight. Good info. Thks.

As I mentioned before, replacing the front sight post is a must. The Pedersoli's are too thick. Looking at a 6" bull at 50 yards is like trying to center a quarter coin on the vertical end of a 2x4 piece of lumber. Track of the Wolf has both taller and thinner front sight posts. Simply tap the base of factory front sight to remove it, and then tap the replacement into place.

Some guys remove the color case hardening on the lock, then brown it. They often cut the wood screw shank off, and then merely fix the head in place, not needing that screw or wanting to deal with it if it stripped out of the wood. Guys who have tried to add a second lock bolt where the wood screw is, have found that the shaft of the second bolt interferes with the ramrod.

LD
 
It is obvious this is an older thread...but for newbies please take note:

Before you severly file down (or replace) and destroy your original front sight blade ....Buckhorn sights were popular in the latter 1800's to allow the shooter to adjust his/her sight picture with a fixed aperture based on distance rather than relying on more or less theoretical Kentucky windage. Especially important with a slug that has a heavy curved trajectory.

I grew up in the 50's hunting with my grandfathers 1873 44/40 which had an original buckhorn rear sight and factory front leaf sight. From a young teenager with his instruction, I could hit (or get very close) to an intentional target off hand from 25 to over 100 yds simply using the buckhorn as it was designed. My grandpa even marked on the aiming side of the buckhorn rear sight with scratch marks for 50 and 75 yards, the top of the buckhorn was 120 yards...the 25 yard picture was the v notch for the 44/40 trajectory. Easy to interpolate and Incredibly and consistently accurate aligning the front sight to the scratch mark!

If you go to a range and practice shooting with your factory Flintlock or cap Frontier factory blade and rear buckhorn as your rifle was correctly designed and delivered; I believe you will be very pleasantly surprised. Practice and scratch mark the buckhorn...you will be amazed how easy and consistently accurate your rifle has become! If you severly file down or replace your front sight, your buck horn rear sight loses it innate, well designed feature. You will then revert back to Kentucky windage for different shooting distances guessing where your front sight should be and lose the finesse of a great Buckhorn design feature. You will see that to raise the front sight for a further distance, the front of your barrel will kill the sight picture!!!

I know there will be an argument here, but with a severly filed down or replaced lower front sight, your fixed sight picture is only for one distance (which may be o.k. if your target is forever the same), then Kentucky windage kicks in to guesstimate where to put your front sight in relation to the buckhorn rear sight for longer distances. Any old timer, if you can find one, will show you how to correctly use your buckhorn rear sight. These pics may give assistance...you may need to click them to enlarge for a full picture:
 

Attachments

  • 6105339bd76a5d3c752d152d071d75b9.jpeg
    6105339bd76a5d3c752d152d071d75b9.jpeg
    108.9 KB
  • Unknown.jpeg
    Unknown.jpeg
    5.9 KB
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top