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Unless your planning on killing something, 12-15 gr. at 25yds and 18-20 gr. at 50yds will give fine accuracy...c
Pedersoli Remington Pattern Target
- Thread starter Rfp10000
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Unless your planning on killing something, 12-15 gr. at 25yds and 18-20 gr. at 50yds will give fine accuracy...c
Would you use filler and a wad or lube over the ball with these Target loads ?
Powder, filler, ball and lube.
15 grains 3F, 18 grains of COW then the ball and lastly the lube.
Lube, I use melt Gulf Wax, add Vasoline and Mineral Oil. I adjust the Vasoline and Mineral Oil amounts depending on the time of year it will be used. Thicker lube for summer and thinner for winter.
No second place knows what he speaks.
15 grains 3F, 18 grains of COW then the ball and lastly the lube.
Lube, I use melt Gulf Wax, add Vasoline and Mineral Oil. I adjust the Vasoline and Mineral Oil amounts depending on the time of year it will be used. Thicker lube for summer and thinner for winter.
No second place knows what he speaks.
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Match winning paper target load info only. .36 or .44cal. at 25yds 12-15grs Goex, Old Ensford or Swiss... 50yds 15-20grs ...Just accuracy not power...Seat ball to just under top of chamber...Fill with Cream of Wheat or Corn meal leaving room for ball to seat with "Very little compression"...Lube over top w/ 1/3 bees wax to 2/3 crisco or lard 60F - 87F ...50/50 over 87F...25/75 under 60F.Not for hunting or carry/defence for extended periods loaded. Your under wad loads are better for preventing holster leak out of lube in those cases...Off gun loading press like the one from powder inc. works best...c
I measured up some 15 gn charges then weighed to double check … pretty close with 3F Swiss but I used the same spout (smallest I have) on COW and it weighed about 10 gn. At least it gets me a start with doing it this way. I also have some 20 gn charges .
I got to shoot it today … some rain ended things a little early. All in all I really like the gun. I used some different loads from around 15 gn with filler , 20 & 25 and some paper cartridges I already had. The Remington 10 caps seemed to work well with a push from a dowel . RWS+ worked with a pinch.
One problem was when I took the gun apart for cleaning I found 2 thin steel washers that appear to have been on the left side of the hammer. I found a bit of a wear ring around the screw hole on that side of the hammer but not the other so that’s why I figured they went there. They do not appear to have been on the bolt of trigger screws.
I think I will have a time getting them back in on the screw that holds the hammer considering I have to attach the hand to the hammer and slide it into place before screwing the hammer back in place .
Any thoughts ?
One problem was when I took the gun apart for cleaning I found 2 thin steel washers that appear to have been on the left side of the hammer. I found a bit of a wear ring around the screw hole on that side of the hammer but not the other so that’s why I figured they went there. They do not appear to have been on the bolt of trigger screws.
I think I will have a time getting them back in on the screw that holds the hammer considering I have to attach the hand to the hammer and slide it into place before screwing the hammer back in place .
Any thoughts ?
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Only reason to use shim washers on a Rem. Army would be to reduce hammer wobble to have a more consistent trigger pull. Never had to do that. I would try it with and without checking function and pull. Also check for side play while cocked.If the hammer drops while pushing sideways you need the shims as the hammer is undersized Most likely will not need shims... This sort of shimming has been used on modern match revolvers but is a poor idea on a black powder gun that will collect the fouling of more than 3 targets worth of black powder. The Euro`s who do this sort of thing only have one 13 shot match target at 25 meters for their so called "championships" so the tight fitting hammer has little fouling to gum it up. In U.S. we shoot 4 championship match targets and most likely 2 warm up targets and then maybe a few side match targets.In order to keep my revolvers going all day for maybe 8-12 targets I have to lube my hammer an cylinder pin every 2-3 targets. A few drops of soapy water works on the hammer. Cylinder lube on the pin...c
Ok … thanks … I’m used to the Remington and was a little shocked to see these extra parts. I think they came out after I had it all apart and was cleaning inside around where the hand goes but I’m not sure …I’ll see if I can get them in place . I was able to without the hand but with the hand it seems it would be tough to do on any kind of regular basis …
I put it together without the shims. It seems fine. The hand was a lot harder to get in place than my Uberti. I assume that will get easier. But actually the action feels a little better after shooting & cleaning. I usually let them sit apart for the night and check them again for cleaning the next day but I wanted to see it go back together. Seems like a successful day. Tried different loads & caps. I liked the light Target loads with filler but a part of me likes the noise and smoke of the bigger loads! The Nipples still bother me because I couldn’t find anything small enough to clear the hole if need be but I never had any ignition problems. Thanks for all your advice. I’ll be trying the 50 yard target with your suggested loads in the near future.
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"but a part of me likes the noise and smoke of the bigger loads!" ...The best accurate shooters I know have no problem shooting hot loads. Lighter loads just allow us to practice more due to less effort per shot. As a bonus our guns last longer and cost less operate. I shoot 8-10 thousand rounds of B.P. pistol every year. Like all sports the pounding you give your joints and tendons adds up over the years. I know fellow formerly great shooter who liked the blaster boy loads .."Formerly great"...c
Also , I can shoot the 12 ga or Sharps for thunder…it’s just a new concept for me . I agree it’s less strain beside being a lot better deal on powder. Most everything I do from cycling vs running , paddling or not beating my old Porsche follows the same logic you outlined above. I’ll definitely transfer it to Pedersoli and probably colt army 2nd Gen. I’d like them to last.
In case anyone is interested , I measured the gap on either side of the hammer (screw in) of an Uberti Remington & the Pedersoli Target. I put them each on 1/2 cock and for the Uberti on left side of the hammer I got .0015 & on the right .013 in.
The Pedersoli without shims on the left was .002 & .012 on the right. I did not force these measurements but took what seemed easy as my numbers so there would be no binding or drag using these numbers.
I guess the Pedersoli assembler added the 2 shims (.006 each)to the left side to move the hammer to the right , but this is obviously my uneducated guess only.
It seems like it should shoot fine judging by the Uberti but I have the 2 shims anyway.
The Pedersoli without shims on the left was .002 & .012 on the right. I did not force these measurements but took what seemed easy as my numbers so there would be no binding or drag using these numbers.
I guess the Pedersoli assembler added the 2 shims (.006 each)to the left side to move the hammer to the right , but this is obviously my uneducated guess only.
It seems like it should shoot fine judging by the Uberti but I have the 2 shims anyway.
I can't speak for Pedersoli revolvers but Ubertis often require shims on the left side of the hammer because it's off center and will rub on the left side of the frame opening slowing it down.
