So is it done yet?
Just kidding. Take your time and you should have a nice rifle!
Just kidding. Take your time and you should have a nice rifle!
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Pedersoli Scout .32 cal Kit Help
- Thread starter Leadriver
- Start date
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I have built a Pedersoli kit that was level 1. Yes, there is some fitment to be done and metal work etc.. Nothing that takes special tools. Files, sandpaper and patience. Go slow, enjoy the process of making the gun yours.
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pins should not be tapered. out left to right , in from the right. be VERY careful not to allow the punch to slip off the pin when drifting. . its a good idea to shorten them a bit so that the punch goes into the hole a little. avoids that slip. if you shorten them be sure to round the end over. hope this helps.
I'm seeing a decent/average amount of wood work to be done there. The following is MY OPINION ONLY so you may want to wait and see what others say before you act on any of my ideas...
Those grooves around the lock panel are finishing cuts to help guide you into where the rest of the stock is supposed to end up. Make sense? Keep the lock panel edges sharp and finish the surrounding wood even with the bottom of those finishing grooves and you should be fine.
Your buttplate and toe plate look pretty good for a kit fitment. I'd bring the wood down to meet the brass and call it a day. Good news is that if you feel the need to add any relief carving you've got some wood to work with.
Your entry thimble looks to be rough cast. I'd file that smooth and get it mostly sanded to shape and then bring the forend wood down to meet it. That vertical line running up the stock between the two thimble pins? That's caused by a change in cutters during the stock shaping process and will need to be removed. I generally try to make the wood and metal parts look like they grew together with no gaps or steps of any kind. Seldom works out that way for me, but that's what I shoot for.
Those grooves around the lock panel are finishing cuts to help guide you into where the rest of the stock is supposed to end up. Make sense? Keep the lock panel edges sharp and finish the surrounding wood even with the bottom of those finishing grooves and you should be fine.
Your buttplate and toe plate look pretty good for a kit fitment. I'd bring the wood down to meet the brass and call it a day. Good news is that if you feel the need to add any relief carving you've got some wood to work with.
Your entry thimble looks to be rough cast. I'd file that smooth and get it mostly sanded to shape and then bring the forend wood down to meet it. That vertical line running up the stock between the two thimble pins? That's caused by a change in cutters during the stock shaping process and will need to be removed. I generally try to make the wood and metal parts look like they grew together with no gaps or steps of any kind. Seldom works out that way for me, but that's what I shoot for.
When getting wood to blend to the metal parts leave the metal parts in place to get a good wood to metal fit. File and sand to fit down to 200 grit. Then you can remove the metal parts for a finer sanding an polish. Look in the gun builders forum and ask guidance there also. That's where I go a lot of great information on builds, even from these in-the-white kits. The post by Ghostdncr has good advice. It should end up looking pretty seamless when you are finished.
very nice. looks like i grew there.
Looks like a fine job on the buttplate. Keep doing that! 
Ok well I finally got the whole stock fitted, lock fitted and sanded down to 220. I’ll have to take pics tomorrow and post. I do have one question, I decided to draw file the 3 barrel flats on top however I keep getting a line down one side of the flat even when the file is flat in relation to the barrel flat. I dunno what to do.
Clean your file. That looks like what's caused by a "pin" or a shaving that's wrung itself to the file's teeth. I use a fine wire brush on mine and then rub the teeth with common blackboard chalk to help minimize pinning. One of my mentors used light machine oil on his files and did just fine with it too, and I've also heard of a true soap like Ivory brand being used to good effect.
Use different section of your file as you perform your draw filing.
I tried to keep the file clean and use different sections on the file while drawing. I used a Nicholson 10” file then switched to an 8” Nicholson file with the same results. I’m stumped here, I know the file was laid flat the whole time. Should I tip the file alittle to take the edge off? I even made sure that if the there a slight bow in the file to put it down onto the barrel.
Well all the hard work is done, all that’s left is polishing the brass, stain & oil the wood and blue the barrel. Hopefully it will be done by the end of the week. I finally figured out how to draw file all 5 so they all cleaned up. Then sanded at 200 then 500.
Well I stained the stock finally however, the grain of the wood keeps raising. After the first coat of stain I buffed with 280 grit to smooth it out. Then I put another coat of stain on and the grain raised once again. I used birch wood Casey walnut stain and I have true oil to apply yet. But I don’t know if I should buff again or wait till after applying the first coat or tru oil? The stain almost looks to dark after the second coat. Kinda stuck on how to handle the next step. And opinions?
You might try raising the grain with steam if wanting to avoid additional coats of stain. I've had really good luck with that technique in the past.
