Pedersoli Tryon Range Report

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Cosmoline

40 Cal.
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I've finally got the kinks worked out on my Ped. Tryon rifle and had a good test session with it at the range today. My elder bro. was visiting and I recruited him to do some drills with it. He's an old pro of smoke pole demonstrations for the NPS so he knew his way around the beast.

I had some earlier troubles with the breach being over-screwed which I tried to fix with a washer. The washer worked, but got fowled and crudola built up, keeping powder from subsequent loads from going down the extra-long breach hole and causing subsequent misfires.

This time I just said hang it and left the breach over-screwed. Looks odd to have the lines of the barrel out of sink but it works fine now. I did notice the two ignition failures today were both from failing to jiggle the powder a bit after pouring to ensure it flows into the breach.

Primer ignition is 100%. No primer failures at all, ever. Just some ignition issues.

About thirty rounds were fired total before the fowling got too bad to get balls down it. I was using pillow ticking greased with bore butter, .54 pads as an innert buffer over 75 grains FFG. A nice moderate load for this rifle, which is rated to go well over 100 grains. Shot PRB only, .530" balls. This is the version with the extra slow roundball twist. I tried FFFG but did not see any improvement in accuracy.

Accuracy was good though I didn't take the target out beyond fifty yards. I'm still not happy with the loose fit in the stock and will be working to nail it down tighter this winter.

All-in-all it's a solid and very nice rifle, though obviously not as good as a custom job. This one was used and I got a good deal on it. If I were to pay $800 for a new one I would get a custom rifle along the same lines. I do like the back action. And the rifle balances very well in spite of the big stock and weight. It shoots good off hand and carries nicely in the cradle position.
 
The FFFG might not have given better accuracy (I have a rifle like that) but generally it gives less fouling. Since you're having trouble with fouling, it might be worth trying it again, just to see if it helps.

As for the loose fit, a little epoxy bedding will generally take care of that. Even on tightly fitting guns, bedding will sometimes increase the consistency enough to be worth the effort.

I like to salvage used guns and rebuild them too. I always like to see them put back into action. Hang in there and keep tinkering. You'll get the ol' gal back in the game!
 
You might want to try 1.5F Swiss black powder...I guess the powder grain sizes are more consistent, thus getting more consistent pressures and accuracy. I have noticed that it doesn't foul up the bore anymore then 3F Swiss.
 
1 in 128" eh? I had no idea they got that slow. Is that much more accurate with roundball?
 
I finally got this one back out for another spin. I switched to musket caps, which are much easier to manipulate for me. The patent breach is still acting fussy and I had one FTF when the powder didn't go down the spout properly. On the other shots I made sure to swab the breech with a small size bore brush, and to shake the rifle to encourage the powder down the hole.

I also had a loose barrel hook, which seems to be endemic with these Pedersolis after awhile. I locked it down with some temporary epoxy. The group did indeed get tighter, so I may make the alteration permanent.

TryTarg.jpg
 
I like the looks of the Pedersoli Tryon 50 caliber rifle but was wondering if it was worth the $725 or $750 that Dixie wants for it? I would like to build the kit as the 14 in.trigger pull is too long, I need 13 1/2 in. trigger pull.
 
Keep in mind this one is an older model and was well used when I got it. You might have to do some tweaking on it. The biggest problem has been the hooked breech barrel. I don't see any major advantage to it and it gets loose with age.
 
For the overscrewed breach, if you add a washer to the back, to get the breach to square up, you have to add a washer to the shoulder on the inside. I had a gap between the shoulder and the start of the rifling on an old Moroku pistol. I added a brass washer to the inside, carefully fit it for diameter and hole size the fit fit fit for depth. Took a few hours, but it came out nice. No gap at the shoulder (used a feeler wire to check for any catch).

On the loose hook, here is a trick (and don't ask how I know this) but the "loose" is usually cause by the hook going "too deep" into the Tang. Take the tang out mount to the barrel and pull straight back and forward. If it moves - here is how to fix it. Get some JB Weld and a set of automotive shims (a cheap shim group that comes in a pack like allen head wrenches). Cut a small piece of the shim that looks close and use the JB Weld to mount it on the back of the hook (you may have to hammer the shim semi round first), file to fit on the edges. If the shim is too tight or loose, heat to 600 to get the JB to let go, pull out your shim pack and go up or down to get a nice tight fit. Takes a little while, depending on your calibrated eye, but IT DOES WORK> again, don't ask how I know. Mount the tang back to the gun, and away you go. No more movement at the breech when you fire.

For the barrel, others here have bedded a barrel, something I have not done.

Mike

Mike F
 
Just re-read thatpost - the shim goes between the back of the hook and the inside of the tang. Takes up the movement. Not on the back back of the tang where it would push against wood of the stock.
 
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